T
tenderfoot
Guest
Your mechanic should have been able to cut off the bad end and flare you a new piece. Connect with a hose. What gives?
CK5
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Fuel line from pump to carb- guidance needed
- Thread starter GoGoGirl
- Start date
I'm late to the party, but I have purchased stuff from Inline Tube and have had good results. And yes, they have that line available.
I didn’t even ask! What happened was I went to drive somewhere, had tons of trouble starting, and when it finally started I saw the gas coming out at the fuel filter nut. Tried tightening it myself. Panicked and drove right to the mechanic and just asked for five minutes of his time to see what he could do. Didn’t pursue it beyond that yet. I’d love to do this myself.
Get the inline tube peice 76zimmer posted. I have used it on other peoples trucks
I can't see paying nearly $25 for a hunk of 5/16" or 3/8" brake tubing you can get at any parts store for about $5 and bend it yourself..
It doesn't need to look perfect--as long as it clears anything it could rub against and doesn't kink shut,it'll work fine..
Yes,its a tricky line to reproduce the correct tight bend at the fuel pump end,but it can be done if your careful--the 5/16" tubing bends a lot easier without kinking than the thicker 3/8" stuff,but I have done it many times,and I don't even own a tubing bender,I used two small trees in my yard that grew almost touching together as an aid to bend it,also used an old pulley clamped in a vise as a guide and to avoid kinking it..
You could use copper tubing also,but you'll have to get it flared at both ends,you'll need a flaring tool to do it..
I may even have one of those factory bent fuel lines kicking around in my garage still,I know an engine I recently bought has one on it too..might be old and rusty though..
That fitting on the carb mentioned above that the fuel line screws into IS very easy to cross thread,and ruin the carb casting,they do sell a repair kit that has a fitting that uses o-rings and expands in place,or one that has self tapping oversized threads (which can crack the casting!)..the flare seat in the original fitting is easy to damage too,so I'd go easy as far as torquing the fuel line nut too tight..
It doesn't need to look perfect--as long as it clears anything it could rub against and doesn't kink shut,it'll work fine..
Yes,its a tricky line to reproduce the correct tight bend at the fuel pump end,but it can be done if your careful--the 5/16" tubing bends a lot easier without kinking than the thicker 3/8" stuff,but I have done it many times,and I don't even own a tubing bender,I used two small trees in my yard that grew almost touching together as an aid to bend it,also used an old pulley clamped in a vise as a guide and to avoid kinking it..
You could use copper tubing also,but you'll have to get it flared at both ends,you'll need a flaring tool to do it..
I may even have one of those factory bent fuel lines kicking around in my garage still,I know an engine I recently bought has one on it too..might be old and rusty though..
That fitting on the carb mentioned above that the fuel line screws into IS very easy to cross thread,and ruin the carb casting,they do sell a repair kit that has a fitting that uses o-rings and expands in place,or one that has self tapping oversized threads (which can crack the casting!)..the flare seat in the original fitting is easy to damage too,so I'd go easy as far as torquing the fuel line nut too tight..
Oh crap, so I may have damaged the nuts or threads? The mechanic guessed it was the flare at the end that was out of round, but I don't recall what it looked like. I believe it looked fine to me.
Would gas be dripping out right there, at a good rate, if the problem was only the threads, or could both that and the flared end be bad? And how can I tell if the threads are the problem?
Thank you all, you're the best!
Would gas be dripping out right there, at a good rate, if the problem was only the threads, or could both that and the flared end be bad? And how can I tell if the threads are the problem?
Thank you all, you're the best!
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Could be both sides, the threads are probably not messed up.
Crack it loose and post some pics
Crack it loose and post some pics
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The flare does the actual sealing,but if the nut isn't tight enough it can leak and appear to be coming out of the threads,but the flare is where it seats and seals..
Sometimes the flared end of the tubing will split or crack,and then leaks--not always easy to see the crack too..
Sometimes the flared end of the tubing will split or crack,and then leaks--not always easy to see the crack too..
I feel legally obligated to remind you that the truck's original engine didn't have this problem. 
Just kidding.
But I wanted to point out that the unmentionable engine used about 2 feet of rubber line between the lift pump, fuel filter, and IP inlet. So at least in that case GM was ok with using rubber lines. Either way the line is easy to replace, if it is the problem.
Just kidding.
But I wanted to point out that the unmentionable engine used about 2 feet of rubber line between the lift pump, fuel filter, and IP inlet. So at least in that case GM was ok with using rubber lines. Either way the line is easy to replace, if it is the problem.
We had talked about meeting up on Friday. If it's helpful I'll throw my bender and flaring set in the car and show you how to use 'em. Otherwise any car parts store should have them. Sometimes for free rental, even.
It's a skill you'll need when doing brake lines, too.
It's a skill you'll need when doing brake lines, too.
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Here in New England they should teach how flare and double flare brake tubing in school,as a required survival skill...
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Good thing it's not a 6.2,if one of the steel injector lines fail on one of those the fuel will squirt out at over 1000 psi,probably in a fine mist,which can make it almost ignite by itself ,and inject it under your skin if you get too close to the leak..
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GM did use rubber hose where Campfire mentioned,but I bet it was a higher quality hose that your typical parts store stuff sold by the foot to withstand the heat in the valley area--maybe fuel injection hose ?..
..Good thing it's not a 6.2,if one of the steel injector lines fail on one of those the fuel will squirt out at over 1000 psi,probably in a fine mist,which can make it almost ignite by itself ,and inject it under your skin if you get too close to the leak..
..GM did use rubber hose where Campfire mentioned,but I bet it was a higher quality hose that your typical parts store stuff sold by the foot to withstand the heat in the valley area--maybe fuel injection hose ?..
todays basic rubber hose i will NOT trust . i always go for atleast fuel injection rated rubber hose .
Thanks all. I need to get up on the truck and look directly down at the fuel line when I have a chance. This Daylight Wasting Time crap makes it always real dark when I’m home!!
And I have no regrets on the 350 versus the 6.2, except that I can’t run waste oil and whatnot
And I have no regrets on the 350 versus the 6.2, except that I can’t run waste oil and whatnot
And I have no regrets on the 350 versus the 6.2, except that I can’t run waste oil and whatnot
For most of us that's not enough reason to rush out and buy a 6.2...
Ok, snowstorm imminent tomorrow and the truck in question is my only way to clear my driveway. I’m worried because I haven’t fixed this yet. I work full time and I’m always tired due to a medical condition so this sucks. My driveway is too long for any human to shovel and I’m worried about getting to work.
Any temporary or quick fixes I can do? Rubber sleeve around the fuel filter part of the line, perhaps, so it doesn’t leak as much? Is there any chance that if I got the fuel line off, a local shop would have it in stock if I brought it to them? I only have a tiny amount of time today to run one errand before work so I’d absolutely love it if anyone could recommend me a solution that I can get done right the first time.
This really sucks but unfortunately I just haven’t had time to get that line off. Heck I don’t even know where my 1” wrench is!
Any temporary or quick fixes I can do? Rubber sleeve around the fuel filter part of the line, perhaps, so it doesn’t leak as much? Is there any chance that if I got the fuel line off, a local shop would have it in stock if I brought it to them? I only have a tiny amount of time today to run one errand before work so I’d absolutely love it if anyone could recommend me a solution that I can get done right the first time.
This really sucks but unfortunately I just haven’t had time to get that line off. Heck I don’t even know where my 1” wrench is!
I don't know if you can find these in the parts store or maybe a hardware store. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edd-821650/overview/ The key is the threads need to be for an inverted flare 5/8-18.
Then you could cut the steel line and put a piece of rubber line between the 2. Slip as much hose as you can over the steel line and use 2 hose clamps on it. You can get small tubing cutters at parts stores or hardware stores. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kle-88910
Then you could cut the steel line and put a piece of rubber line between the 2. Slip as much hose as you can over the steel line and use 2 hose clamps on it. You can get small tubing cutters at parts stores or hardware stores. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kle-88910
Unless the nut fitting itself where it threads into the carb is where it is leaking,you don't have to remove that--just hold it still with the right size wrench,and unscrew the steel line nut that threads into it..the line will have a 1/2" or 5/8" hex on it depending on what size tubing it takes (5/16" takes a 1/2" wrench,a 3/8 tube takes a 5/8")..
If its leaking at the flare at the end that screws into the carb fitting,it has to be replaced or re-flared,rubber hose will only work if the tubing has failed anywhere along its run from the fuel pump to the carb,and if that is the case you could just cut the line and splice it with rubber fuel hose & clamps..
Any good shop should be able to bend up a new steel line for you and put it on in like 10 minutes...a plumber could do it too,they deal with flare fittings and lines on a daily basis..
I've been in your situation,it sucks--more than once my truck failed to start or had other problems and I was unable to plow my 100 x 30 foot driveway while the storm was ongoing,had to wait till it ended,and then I had snow drifts higher than the hood on the truck!..
I had a few storms I didn't dare try pushing deep drifts up a slight grade from where the truck was parked,I knew so much snow would pile up in front of the plow it would never be able to push it all the way where I needed to put it--then I'd be screwed,with the truck "trapped" there..
Instead I pushed enough snow off to the side so I had some room to make a running start,and raised the blade all the way up,then made a beeline for the street,and prayed no cars were coming,if I slowed or stopped it would have got high centered on the snow the DPW trucks piled along the end up the driveway..once I made it to the street,I was able to make multiple passes and push the snow off the sides onto my lawn,about 20 feet at a time..it was just too wet and deep to make one continuous pass like I usually do..
Your truck will drive thru 2 feet of snow fairly easy with the blade raised unless you have a driveway that tilts to one side,in that case it might slide sideways if you dont get enough ground speed..
i do not reccomend driving your truck with gas leaking--if its just a slight drip,you may get away with running it from a cold start for a few minutes ,before the engine gets hot enough to ignite the gas,but one stray spark from a plug wire could light it off instantly too..
If its leaking at the flare at the end that screws into the carb fitting,it has to be replaced or re-flared,rubber hose will only work if the tubing has failed anywhere along its run from the fuel pump to the carb,and if that is the case you could just cut the line and splice it with rubber fuel hose & clamps..
Any good shop should be able to bend up a new steel line for you and put it on in like 10 minutes...a plumber could do it too,they deal with flare fittings and lines on a daily basis..
I've been in your situation,it sucks--more than once my truck failed to start or had other problems and I was unable to plow my 100 x 30 foot driveway while the storm was ongoing,had to wait till it ended,and then I had snow drifts higher than the hood on the truck!..
I had a few storms I didn't dare try pushing deep drifts up a slight grade from where the truck was parked,I knew so much snow would pile up in front of the plow it would never be able to push it all the way where I needed to put it--then I'd be screwed,with the truck "trapped" there..
Instead I pushed enough snow off to the side so I had some room to make a running start,and raised the blade all the way up,then made a beeline for the street,and prayed no cars were coming,if I slowed or stopped it would have got high centered on the snow the DPW trucks piled along the end up the driveway..once I made it to the street,I was able to make multiple passes and push the snow off the sides onto my lawn,about 20 feet at a time..it was just too wet and deep to make one continuous pass like I usually do..
Your truck will drive thru 2 feet of snow fairly easy with the blade raised unless you have a driveway that tilts to one side,in that case it might slide sideways if you dont get enough ground speed..
i do not reccomend driving your truck with gas leaking--if its just a slight drip,you may get away with running it from a cold start for a few minutes ,before the engine gets hot enough to ignite the gas,but one stray spark from a plug wire could light it off instantly too..
T
tenderfoot
Guest
Move home, no snow down here, and lots and lots of work.
T
tenderfoot
Guest
But seriously without having to do a lot of driving around chances may be slim of finding something like what mrk5 said. My local ace hardware has an awesome selection of brass fittings. Maybe call around?
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Aren't you married?
