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Getting hot at highway speeds -Solved?

I'm going to answer your comments out of sequence.
First, I didn't know that about the rad caps.
Next, I thought I had found some useful information about water pumps, but after reading it, realized it did not help a lot. However, it appears to give real numbers as to flow, so here is the link.
http://asecertificationtraining.com/water-pumps-in-automotive-engine-coolant-systems/
Not sure if their numbers are any better than yours, and that unreal maximum seems to be for a stand-alone pump, not one on an actual working engine with restrictions. I do note that they make the point about the displacement pump and say that it does not add to the pressure of the system. I would point out to them that it is a recirculating system and no pump is going to add to the overall pressure but again, like we agree, there must be a pressure differential.
I have worked with, and understood the difference between pressure and volume water pumps for decades. The common, shallow well jet pump, of which there are thousands within a few miles of me, is a centrifugal pump just like a auto water pump. Yet, they have no problem developing 40 to 60 PSI of water pressure with no valves other than the check valve to keep it from losing its prime when it turns off.
However, the Gal per Min is probably in the 10 to 25 GPM. On the other hand, my high volume pump looks pretty much the same inside. It would strain to produce 10 PSI, but is rated at 22,500 GPH, or about 375 GPM. Its all in the design.

As for your first comment, we seem, to be running into the same problem I got into many years ago here with a well respected member. If I can remember his name, I'll post it. Neither of us has anything to be ashamed of.
Basically I noticed he posted something that was wrong. I never for a second thought he was lying, I just realized he did not understand what he was saying. He was saying that a certain aftermarket part would cause engine damage due to a fact that was not true.
I tried, as nicely as I knew how, to explain that basically physics did not work that way. He said that it certainly did, and that he, having repaired and rebuilt hundreds of motors, knew that it was true.
I was going to back off, knowing he was arguing from ignorance, not malice, when he said something that stopped me cold.
He stated that he, personally, had repaired many engines with that damage, that the damage had returned, but once the aftermarket part was removed, the damage stopped happening.

This changed the whole picture. Unless I thought he was lying, which I did not, it meant that the part was causing the damage, even though I knew that it could not do so in the manner described. This meant that in some ways, we were both wrong. He was wrong in his idea of the manner that the part was causing the damage, and I was wrong in thinking it was just an old wives tale about what was happening.
I went back and restudied the setup, and I'm pretty sure I discovered what was actually happening. I was going to try to explain it to him, but realized it was a waste of time. Even though he was wrong about how it was happening, he was right about the final result.
If I can find the thread later, and it makes sense at this late date, I'll post a link. Otherwise I will do a quick summery.

The whole point to this walk down memory lane, is to show one thing. Even though, without doing lots of actual real world measurements, we are probably not going to figure out how its happening, the fact of the matter is, people we know have actually seen it happen, so for what ever reason, it can happen. Maybe due to a bad hose, some kind of super aftermarket water pump, or a certain phase of the moon, odds are it has happened in the past and may happen in the future.
Personally I love trying to figure out the cause, and will keep studying the causes. Maybe we can find a theory that will explain it.

OH, just to throw in something to make you question my personal sanity, I make this as a statement of fact. I cannot explain it, and the professor at my college I asked about it, backed quickly away from me and avoided me the rest of the quarter.

Did you know, that if you dig a hole during a certain part of the moon's cycle, and use the same dirt to refill that hole a day or so later, you will have more dirt than you need to refill the hole.
If you do that during a different part of the cycle, you will have to haul dirt in to fill the hole.
People who dig and refill holes for a living have known about that for decades or longer. But I have never heard an explanation. My personal theory, is that it has to do with tides. The ocean rises and falls due to the moon's gravity, I assume that the land does also only much less. This might tend to make the dirt more or less dense.
I had a friend, whose son was going to dig a hole every day for a month, placing the dirt on a tarp so as to use the same dirt each time and record the results for a school science project. But, to get usable results he was going to dig a fairly large hole each time, and he quit after about 5 days and did a much less ambitious project.
 
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Do not understand what you're saying with the volume in the moon. Going to eat some mushrooms and come back in a few hours to revisit this idea
 
Don't feel bad about not understanding. I don't either. I just have observed the effect and used it to my advantage in burying stuff and putting down fence posts.
Land based moon tides is my best guess as to the cause.
 
There is obviously a bunch of data out there on this, but it's not consistent. So testing methodology is suspect.

I note the ASC "A typical water pump can move a maximum of about 7,500 gallons (28,000 liters) of coolant per hour," statement, which equates to 125GPM with their numbers. I can go to Stewart, who builds pumps up to and including high end race applications, and their pump needs 5500RPM to do that...I don't consider an aftermarket pump, on an engine turning 5500RPM, to be a "typical" result lol.

I've been around long enough to see much "conventional wisdom" or myths be propagated, and usually busted, or at least not proven under questioning. 12 bolt front diffs. One-off XYZ engine in such and such vehicle. Coolant can flow too fast. GM fuel pump switches are safety devices. Taking a thermostat out will make the engine run hot, and so on.

Not saying the people making the statements were lying either. I'm just pointing out that even though some of it may be conventional wisdom, and some of this stuff definitely happens, it's not always for the reasons people attribute it to.

In this case, were I home, I'd test the "compressibility" of the lower hose at 2500RPM on a cold and hot engine, just to prove what I think I know. OP can do the same if he wants to test HIS system. But I *do* know that if the lower hose was sucking shut at freeway speeds, I'd have cooling problems. Even a temporary restriction caused by increased RPM's such as a downshift wouldn't be noticeable, so it has to be a consistent issue to cause overheating on the freeway.
 
I’ve been chasing a gremlin that I can’t get rid of. At highway speeds - my temperature goes hot (On flat ground over a few miles at 65 mph -TBI temp at right rear of block - above 230) but cools right off at speeds below 50. I’m turning around 3000 rpm at 65 mph on days above 90 or 95 (In Phoenix)

I fairly confident that the tbi sensor is accurate. It’s back on the water jacket now and reads very close to a inferred thermometer.

Already done:
Complete flush of the system
New hoses
4 core aluminum radiator
Flex a lite electric fans (4,000 CFM) - puller
AC condenser sits in front of the radiator
Small power steering cooler for PSC also sits in front
Nothing blocking the radiator

I have a bearing noise at the front of the engine and I can’t tell if it’s the alternator or water pump
No leaks
No coolant loss
No indication of coolant in the oil

The water pump is maybe 6-8 years old, but not many miles.

stock 350 with a TBI conversion. No engine codes.

The fan had flaps that look like they’re there to let air through at higher speeds.

I feel like I’m throwing parts at the problem and don’t want to go down that insane road.

What am I missing? What should I be looking at? Is it possible for a water pump to be going bad without seepage? Should I look at the Edelbrock high performance water pump?

Buy one of those kits at autoparts stores that check your coolant for hydrocarbons, co2 etc, the liquid based ones, where the coolant itself is tested after its been running for a while not the other types.

I chased a cooling gremlin in a 89 305 TBI camaro, and this is what unveiled my underlying problem, pin hole sized headgasket engine compression leak...
No water in oil.

I changed everything in my cooling system before I found this, heater core, put in a ron davis radiator with dual electric fans, water pump, hoses, thermostats, temp sending units, power flushes etc.
I should have started with the hot, running, co2, hydrocarbon, coolant test
 
At 60mph you're going to need about 60hp to maintain speed for something that big and aerodynamically ugly. An engine is usually 20% efficient. Therefore, you need to get rid of about 180kw of heat. Which isn't much.

I'm leaning towards a crap thermostat combined with a water pump that is suffering from cavitation. The cavitation can be caused by any number of things including a collapsed radiator hose. Once the water stalls the impeller may not stop pumping air until engine RPM changes.

What happens when you drive at a different RPM (drop a gear)?

Flowkooler makes nice impellers. That is the difference for them and their very expensive water pumps. Robert Shaw makes very nice thermostats. They are a superior design to a regular Stant thermostat. Normally I don't bother with fancy parts but sometimes you must.

I can tell you the Cadillac 500 in the motorhome has no problems sucking a lower radiator hose flat with a Flowkooler pump and a Robert Shaw thermostat by blipping the throttle at idle. It doesn't even need to be hot and it can be with or without the radiator cap on.
 
Replaced the water pump today with the Edelbrock model and a high volume thermostat (180). Set timing to 0 after confirming TDC and timing mark with cylinder gauge.

Immediate observations:
I saw a better flow through the radiator at idle which i haven’t seen with the previous pump

Cooling fans didn’t come on while idling. The radiator kept it cool while sitting in the driveway with an ambient temperature of about 107 for a long time - they eventually came on

Went for a drive - at 65mph (3000 rpm) temp slowly crept up over about 10 miles (102 outside temp) to about 221 and stayed level (ALDLdroid reporting at thermostat housing)

Spark plug wire melted and lost the #1 cylinder and temp went up to 230 before I jumped off the freeway

So, I think I’ve got the temp under control - but I won’t know for certain until Amazon arrives on Wednesday and I replace the plug wires

1. Does it make sense that the temperature rise was caused when I lost the cylinder? My logic: The other cylinders working harder to maintain speed.

2. What’s the highest safe temp that a TBI engine can safely run at?
 
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2. What’s the highest safe temp that a TBI engine can safely run at?

I cant imagine there is a huge difference in how much heat a GM SBC can tolerate in a similar vintage setup, I know GM felt it was a good idea to cycle the TPI setup to 220*, and I want to say the off temp was maybe 210*. Obviously GM didnt feel that was too hot. The fan switch does its job at 240*.
 
Why did it melt a wire?

The wire fell against the exhaust manifold. I took it off to remove the plug and did the timing after ensuring the timing mark matched TDC. I didn’t pay enough attention to the slack in the wire when I was done.
 
Does it make sense that the temperature rise was caused when I lost the cylinder?
 
I wouldn't have thought so. That cylinder wouldn't be making any heat. The other 7 wouldn't be working that much harder to create a lot of heat.
this is a fuel mileage strategy in new engines, turning off cylinders. granted in a controlled fashion.
 
Might be a dumb question, did you remember to disable the esc when setting the timing?
 
I think I found the problem. I measured air flow through the grill today. Even though it’s expanded metal, I was reading unrestricted airflow at 25 ft/min from a cooler. I placed the grill in between the source and meter and recorded between12.79 - 13.58 ft/min airflow with the meter in the same location for both readings. The grill is cutting airflow in half.

I compared the data from a test drive last week with the grill on the truck.
06/27/2020:
Ambient temp: 102
Engine temp after 11 minutes of driving and an average of 3024 RPM (Average 59.9 mph) 225 degrees.

Today (grill removed)
Ambient temp: 106
Engine temp after 11 minutes at an average 3064 RPM (average 61 mph) was only 215 degrees.

With no grill, the truck ran 10 degrees cooler with it 4 or 5 degrees hotter weather and at slightly higher RPM.

Looks like I’ll be building a new grill.
 
wow thats good to know I was considering an expanded metal grill. may have to rearrange my coolers and put a stock grill in.
 
Expanded metal comes in different sizes.
If you were using one of the smaller sizes you might go up to a larger size.
 
I think I found the problem. I measured air flow through the grill today. Even though it’s expanded metal, I was reading unrestricted airflow at 25 ft/min from a cooler. I placed the grill in between the source and meter and recorded between12.79 - 13.58 ft/min airflow with the meter in the same location for both readings. The grill is cutting airflow in half.

I compared the data from a test drive last week with the grill on the truck.
06/27/2020:
Ambient temp: 102
Engine temp after 11 minutes of driving and an average of 3024 RPM (Average 59.9 mph) 225 degrees.

Today (grill removed)
Ambient temp: 106
Engine temp after 11 minutes at an average 3064 RPM (average 61 mph) was only 215 degrees.

With no grill, the truck ran 10 degrees cooler with it 4 or 5 degrees hotter weather and at slightly higher RPM.

Looks like I’ll be building a new grill.

I think someone not sure who, said this like 15 posts ago maybe like twice :whistle: ............. :whistle::D
 
I think someone not sure who, said this like 15 posts ago maybe like twice :whistle: ............. :whistle::D

Let’s not turn this into Pirate.

One would think that the larger expanded metal would not be an issue. More importantly, until this week, I didn’t have a way to actually measure the airflow. I grabbed a cheap anemometer to check it.

And the suggestion is why I checked it.
B8E789A3-0443-437A-98A6-77185882B8C9.jpeg
 

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