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Getting hot at highway speeds -Solved?
- Thread starter AZ79K5Project
- Start date
Well I have a diesel so I don't have to change anything.
If you don't want a plastic tank and want the biggest radiator for a square which is the diesel radiator.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081ZQZXP9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZK8iFbDP1P13V
Thanks for the link - I’d have to do some serious re-arranging for the width of that. It’s only 6 inches wider than the Summit one. Three inches a side doesn’t seem like much until I really looked at what I have.
It fits unless you have done something not stock to your core support.
You will need the right brackets for the radiator but that is easy, it's just money.
Kain
3/4 ton status
ill say it again, Mishimoto has a lifetime warranty.......................
What alternator are you running? I ran into similar issues yesterday after I had lines made and my AC system charged. What I noticed is that with both windstar fans running, and AC running I couldn't get my truck below 200, even at HWY speeds (was about 110 ambient yesterday). I then looked at what my charging system voltages were at... ~12 volts or less with the AC on ~12.5v with the AC off. With non-essential electronics turned off my motor cooled down to ~195 and I could hear the fans increase in RPM. Apparently my stock alternator can't handle the increased load - replacing with a 140A alternator today.
I'm thinking that with the fans not able to draw necessary amps to spin all the way up they were causing a reduction in air flow. Before AC and other electronics but with windstars I had just over 13v and stayed at 180 or cooler.
I'm thinking that with the fans not able to draw necessary amps to spin all the way up they were causing a reduction in air flow. Before AC and other electronics but with windstars I had just over 13v and stayed at 180 or cooler.
what 140 amp alt are you getting? 10si ? and how much. I have the 100 amp Powermaster 47127, and am thinking I might need to upgrade again.
I have dual batts, winch, small electric heat cool center console chest, 10" condenser fan. Yet to be installed 1700 watt inverter and off road lighting not purchased.
At the moment I think i'm good volt meter shows 13.3- 13.5 with both batts charging ac and cooler running.
I have dual batts, winch, small electric heat cool center console chest, 10" condenser fan. Yet to be installed 1700 watt inverter and off road lighting not purchased.
At the moment I think i'm good volt meter shows 13.3- 13.5 with both batts charging ac and cooler running.
It's from a '96 Buick Roadmaster - just need to swap the pulley over to a vbelt. Thank you @blazinzuk for the suggestion
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...3411/1996/buick/roadmaster?q=alternator&pos=0
I’m running the 3 wire 140A 12si (I think it was the 12 - it’s been a while). I used charging graph, redline of the alternator RPM and found an undersized pulley that would charge while low RPM crawling and maintain at idle while keeping the alternator from redlining. I grabbed a pulley set from a pontiac if I remember correctly. I still have another set somewhere. I put an idler pulley in the system to give me more surface area on the alternator.
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@AZ79K5Project any updates?
Mine is getting warm on the highway. I have a 160 stat and it climbs to 210. I'm starting to wonder if my Ebay 4 core alum radiator is the issue. Really hate to switch radiators since I have -20AN male ends welded on the alum radiator. Long story on that.
Mine is getting warm on the highway. I have a 160 stat and it climbs to 210. I'm starting to wonder if my Ebay 4 core alum radiator is the issue. Really hate to switch radiators since I have -20AN male ends welded on the alum radiator. Long story on that.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
210 in the summer doesn’t sound bad.
I think it will keep climbing if I let it. With a 160 thermostat, I'd expect 180-190 max. I haven't tried to run up any steep passes yet so a little worried there. Just seems like my cooling system is not up to par and want it cooling better before I go on any long trips.
Kain
3/4 ton status
Take thermostat and see if its working properly, drop in boiling water
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
the thermostat has nothing to do with how hot it runs, only prevents it from running too cold.
u less it sticks shut lol. Had that happen in my scout. They don't like that and get quite hot indeed
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
u less it sticks shut lol. Had that happen in my scout. They don't like that and get quite hot indeed
well, yes. Better to check it but if it maxes out at 210 in the heat, I’m not sure I’d mess with it.
This is the 2nd thermostat. Other one did the same thing but that was before cooling fan upgrade. I can try the boiling water test. I might take a look at my water pump closer. I believe it was a Weiand or Mr Gasket alum.
I have to disagree a little on the thermostat controlling heat. IF the radiator and fan(s) was keeping the coolant at a lower temp, the thermostat is regulating how much cooling the engine gets. If I have a 160, I'd expect temps closer to 170-180. If I had a 200 thermostat, then it should see temps in the 210-220. This is with a adequate cooling system of course. I realize there's so many factors but just my .02.
From Stant's site-
The thermostat has two important jobs:
I have to disagree a little on the thermostat controlling heat. IF the radiator and fan(s) was keeping the coolant at a lower temp, the thermostat is regulating how much cooling the engine gets. If I have a 160, I'd expect temps closer to 170-180. If I had a 200 thermostat, then it should see temps in the 210-220. This is with a adequate cooling system of course. I realize there's so many factors but just my .02.
From Stant's site-
The thermostat has two important jobs:
- Accelerate engine warm-up: By blocking the circulation of coolant between the engine and radiator until the engine has reached its predetermined temperature
- Regulate the engine's operating temperature: By opening and closing in response to specific changes in coolant temperature to keep the engine's temperature within the desired operating range
There can be variance based on what the thermostat actually opens at vs. rated, but fully open, the thermostat does zero to influence the upper temperature limit of the engine, except to potentially serve as a restriction to flow, which doesnt help cooling. But its factored into the system design.
I dont know how the modern trucks do with cooling temps, but the cars are rock solid. I suspect our trucks in many applications are simply borderline with the cooling, and probably technologically lacking in terms of effective airflow through the radiator and engine bay.
I dont know how the modern trucks do with cooling temps, but the cars are rock solid. I suspect our trucks in many applications are simply borderline with the cooling, and probably technologically lacking in terms of effective airflow through the radiator and engine bay.
Are you positive it is 160 therm those are hard to find. If the coolant move through rad to quickly no cooling will be done. Electric or mechanical fan ?
