Going to try to give ryoken a break by educating myself here,

[y5mgisi]

http://www.autobody101.com/forums/

And alot of other places really. So far it seems that their are folks over there and on several other boards that have genuine experience based advice to offer much like ryoken. Naturally, there seems to be quite the opposite also... Despite that, i think there is much to be learned by someone like myself who really doesn't even understand the difference between lacquer and enamel... much less the prep work involved in dealing with the various paints, whats right for me, how to apply the paint, etc etc. Begin learning sequence!

 

[ashman]

/thumbsup!

 

[mudbuggy]

Glad you found that, all I found was a podcast series that talks about buying a 'gold membership to learn the real secrets'. Good job

 

[ryoken]

too much like work for me when I'm in forums like that... boat forums too, fix em all day, than go home and answer how to fix em... got old fast... a little advice here and there on CK5 is welcome... feel free to confirm any advice with me...

 

[y5mgisi]

I kinda figured. Its kinda nice though that they have several stickies over there on stuff like what grit sand paper to use and several other what i would cosider guidelines that arent necessarily instructions but an idea on what direction to be going. The thing is is i think im going to try to learn to paint on my blazer. I can lay down some pretty nice rattle can which makes me feel like i would gain "the touch" pretty quick when using real paint and primer out of a real gun. I think i want to learn on the blazer cause it should just be single stage and no mettalic. So, if i get some of the ins and out figured out on that thing, i should still end up with a decent paint job rather then starting with one of the other vehicles i own that have at the least a metallic in the paint or even a base with metallic with a clear coat...

 

[ryoken]

I haven't read any of it, just remember, this IS the intraweb....

I've talked about grit prep before in here.. that, in itself, is a subject i could talk about for hr's at a bar... sometimes there are reasons to air more toward one end of the correct grit parameter, than the other sometimes.. wet on wets, etc...


that is the main thing most, pro's included, don't always understand... They get locked into a # they read somewhere, without an understanding of what the surface/materials really want... I can paint 2 cars with the same materials, have them look exactly the same, with the same adhesion durability and one will be prepped in 320, one in 400... using various principals and application techniques...

you may have noticed in here I usually give a grit range, 180 to 220 or similar, it is for that reason... grit prep is always a function of adhesion... proper adhesion from one material and layer to the next, is the law for bodywork...

anyway.... don't ever feel guilty dropping me a note...

 

[y5mgisi]

Thanks man i appreciate it! I just dont want this to turn into something like an autobody/boat work forum for you where it feels like all you are doing on here is answering questions for people. I want you to not burn out and stop hanging out here! I THINK that when it comes time for me to ask questions, i will at least be partially educated with more or less fine tuning my education to suit my situation. Also, if i do in fact start with the blazer it should be pretty simple and straightforward as far as paint jobs go. So we'll have that going for us!

 

[TheBeast_88K5]

Paul's the best....


Good link, OP...

 

[nsxxtreme]

If your just try to paint a "decent" paint job I would go with a single stage paint. Really depends on the final product that your looking for.

Single stage paints IMO are easy to paint. Two stage is more difficult and can cause yourself some problems if you cause runs in the clear coat.

IF and when I paint my blazer it will be with a single stage.

 

[ryoken]

base/clear is way easier to work with.. on multiple levels... it's just more expensive..

 

[y5mgisi]

Really? Shows how much i know! My 79 blazer came from the factory with what? A single stage lacquer?

 

[ryoken]

single stage enamel.... try shooting that in metallic....

yup, common misconception among many.... with base/clear vs single... all your color work is sprayed in base, which is easier to spray than lacquer..... stupid easy...

than ya just clear it out.. which is effectively shooting single stage at that point.. but with no worries on color, your strictly looking at your gloss finish....

it's also waaaaay easier to spot repair and blend...... and as mentioned many times in here by me, pretty much a must for metallics... single stage metallic enamel from the 80's was the biggest nightmare to shoot.... I used to shoot single stage baby blue metallic full size vans every so often at the collision shop, they freakin sucked....

but I used to love doing cleared single stage progressions with solids... I did my bud's 70 ragtop goat like that in a bright hugger orange... adding progressively more clear to each coat of single stage color, till your shooting 3 coats of straight clear... super "deep" effect to that...

 

[y5mgisi]

I have heard of this progressive clearing and thought it sounded neat. Realistally, the base clear should look quite a bit better then a single stage and last longer too right?

 

[ryoken]

much... single stage will also oxidize MUCH easier than a cleared finish..


progressive clear jobs have been around forever.. but it is generally a pretty oldschool "trick" these days with all the crazy base/clear jobs out these days....


base/clear rules for graphics....

I'll say this.... from the days of restoing mixers, D9's, muscle, etc, to painting 20 a week in the collision shop to geling/painting 60' boats, I've been involved in some "INTENSE" pressure shoots.... refinishing is a minimize risk profession... but sometimes badarse, don't want safe...

 

[ryoken]

oh, base/clear work will bump the costs up 50 to 100% usually over a urethane single stage...... color dependent, etc... but when ya throw in cheap 80's single stage enamels at $100 or so a gallon catalyzed, the price difference can be

 

[y5mgisi]

oye... Thats another thing i have been curious about is just how much i will have wrapped up in a DIY paint job. I have virtually nothing to do it. So i would need everything from cheese grader, sand paper, gun(s), paint primer clear, etc etc. Im guessing i would probably have to spend aroun $1000 before i ever squirt my first drop of paint. Thats kinda the point where it begins to get tough for me to do it myself. The fact is i can drop it off at Maaco and for $1000 they will have it done and back to me in a week. Doing it myself will surely take the better part of at least a month. On the flip side, once i have purchased all this equipment, i can then continue on to do my other trucks myself and any future vehicular acquisitions. At that point, the cost of the initial equipment purchase will flip to savings.

 

[ryoken]

couple gals fill primer $250... couple gals single stage uro, 4 to 500... throw a gallon of clear in there too for fancy schmancy factor, $200....

 

[wazzabie]

Chevy cordova brown from the late 70s. Is this a metallic? How can I tell if it is metallic?

 

[y5mgisi]

Is this a car that you own? If so, does the paint sparkle? Then its metallic. If not, and it doesnt look like it has fine glitter in it, then it is not.

 

[y5mgisi]

If its what i think it is, then yes, it is metallic. I think thats the color my 77 is.

EDIT: Like this? My 77.

If so then yes it is metallic.