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Going to try to give ryoken a break by educating myself here,

wazzabie said:
I can paint the K5 in sections as I'm going to keep the hood and door in the original paint, it will be easy to paint and touch up any scrapes and scratches.
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You plan to shoot those sections all on the same day with the same paint right?
If not your going to end up with a bunch of different shades of the color your using. Temperature and humidity can change the shade ever so slightly. Depending on the color it can make it look really horrible.
 
nsxxtreme said:
You plan to shoot those sections all on the same day with the same paint right?
If not your going to end up with a bunch of different shades of the color your using. Temperature and humidity can change the shade ever so slightly. Depending on the color it can make it look really horrible.
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what he said x2. different gun pressure and +/- ruducer could change the way it sprays or lays out..
if your not wanting an exact paint match on the red or white you could see if your paint store has any "oops" paint. its cheaper,i got 2 pints 1 omni plus silver met and the other 1 is PPG dark cherry for $5 total this good for helmets or under candys.
i got a gallon of ppg ford red for $25
 
Just to be clear, i own the red and white blazer and am bot trying to do touch up or panels. Wazzabie has a cordova brown truck that he wants to do panel by panel.
 
Ryoken, what do you think about this scenario; I have a rusty fang on one of my front fenders. I replace the rusted area, body work it, zinc it, 2k(is there any good rattle can build primers?), then have the body shop give me an aerosol can of the color of my truck. This way, I can do a patch panel in a weekend and be back on the road looking mostly normal each week. Then, a year later when I'm financially ready to paint the whole truck, the spots that i repaired won't need sanded to bare metal but just back down into the 2k. Obviously, the rattle can top coat is silly and insufficient for the long term but, it would buy you that year of looking almost like nothing happened despite the fact that your body work is all done. I just hate seeing cars/trucks running around with a dozen primer patches on them. So what do you think? This way I could do my body work over the coarse of several months without having to have the truck down for more then a couple weeks at a time. Then, when I'm ready, I can paint the truck quick since all the body repair work is done.
 
wazzabie said:
I'm leaning more towards either acrylic enamel or acrylic lacquer now. As these are safer to paint.
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Haha, you've obviously never had the unpleasant experience of breathing too much lacquer fumes. There's a reason its banned in many states. You need to wear a respirator, long sleeved clothing, and gloves with any paint.
 
Ok. couldn't remember if that topic was touched on or not. I'm guessing its due to the rattle can stuff not being catilized? Suppose I could just go ahead and buy the hvlp gun that i will need and spot prime using my little compressor? I'm not trying to take short cuts. Just trying to give myself the best chance I have of success. I worry that I'm one of those people that if i got into a 3 month body work project I might burn out on it. Where as if i could get my body back into shape a weekend or two at a time, I think that would be my best chance at sticking with it and staying positive and not getting overwhelmed. Keep in mind this would be my first foray into body work/paint. I seem to have a nack also for making mountains out of mole holes. So if i can keep those mole holes as small as possible to begin with, I think I will be better off in the long run.
 
correct, the resin base is not nearly as good... just look at what happens with a lacquer primered car in the rain.. and for as user friendly as lacquer is, it's not durable...

than ya pick up some durability with an enamel..... and lose every ounce of usability.. try sanding an enamel product and get back to me...

you can spray with that set up, just not huge areas... get a gun, buy a gal of primer and start doing the easier repairs on the truck, spot prime, do another spot when ya have time, rinse/repeat, well gee, hey look at that, i just need to sand it all and it's ready for paint, joy, dance the jig...
 
I don't need to paint the entire truck. The hood is not rusted and I'm ok with the scratches in the door. I'm just going to paint the patch areas at once.
 
have fun panel painting and matching to an existing faded, 30 yr old enamel...
 
get a gun, buy a gal of primer and start doing the easier repairs on the truck, spot prime, do another spot when ya have time, rinse/repeat, well gee, hey look at that, i just need to sand it all and it's ready for paint, joy, dance the jig...
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This is what im hoping for. What do you think tho of the part about just getting 1 or 2 aerosol cans made in my color code that i will just spray on over the 2k so that i dont look so much like a primer truck, then just sanding through that back down to the 2k when im ready to paint. Sounds good? Or is there a reason why not to do that?

Also, thank you!

How much is a gallon of primer anyway? Im just thinking this could get me that much closer to a truck that will be ready to paint just by kinda taking baby steps to get there and avoid the major 4 week tear downs that can turn into two year tear downs.
 
sure, ya could.. some paint suppliers will premix tinted primer too... but I'm not big on tinted primers personally, doesn't sand as well, plus it's more expensive...

but sure you could "temp" paint anything you want on the 2K.. just be aware it wastes a bit of time and product.. not only the paint you put on, but you more than likely have to at least put a sealer coat of primer back prior to final paint after sanding...

spot doing, and panel painting a truck can certainly be done too.. i partake in it quite often.. but as I've said in here before, in the end, you need one last full overshoot to have a good paint job... paint everything as built, than a final sand, mask and squirt....
 
I think i need to touch on something here that may help some people understand the issues with metallics...

let's use a 70's dark brown metallic single stage enamel as an example.... :whistle:


I can use the same 5 gallon pail of paint, paint 5 different cars, and have 5 very different looking colors/paint jobs...

as touched on by the others earlier, technique, thinner, etc can all have effects, some more than others...

thick paint tends to be darker, less glitz.. thin paint is lighter, with more sparkle...

low pressure is darker, high pressure is lighter color...

I'll leave out various speed/distance techniques, as I think you get the point... when ya have to know what kind of finish all the manufacturers end up with on their cars, and how to replicate that in your shop with your products, you know some tricks... orangepeel, how they lay metallics out, etc...

the main key for metallics is what kind of metallic tint is in the paint (course, super fine, etc), and how you lay that out.. meaning, a wet coat or thick paint have a tendency to "stand up" the metallics... darker color, less sparkle... thin paint, high pressure, etc have a tendency to lay the metallics flat, which makes the color lighter, and more glitsy...

there's more to it.... a lot of what I said also applies to base/clear, or even lacquer... but we'll leave that for another time...


we'll leave metallic gelcoat for the boat forums... :haha:
 
she can spray, safety first!

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Thanks Ryoken. Might i ask what you would suggest doing to someone like myself that doesnt want their truck down forever and who has also never really ventured into body work? Im just thinking like you said, get the truck to where all it needs is all it would need if there was no body work required, then spray the thing like it was a perfect rust/det free truck that it would be after fixing all the issues.
 
the easiest way to do it is to drive around with the truck for 6 monthes with more and more spot primer on it... look at the truck... pick out the 6, or 10, etc worst spots on the truck, ding, failed paint, etc, etc....

start by doing one of the easier areas on a weekend or something, even if it's just a failed paint area that needs a good featheredge and spot prime, no bodywork..... that way you cut your chops on the easier stuff and finish with more challenging stuff..
 
It makes more sense the more I think about it. Fraid your right. So, can I just leave the primer (2k) exposed to the elements? Or does it need sealed some how?
 
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