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got some $128.99 ebay stainless steel headers. pics inside

I never updated this. I went with some DNA headers on Amazon. I think they were $88.

I have threaded all the bolts in by hand. Plug clearance sends decent, and they don't touch the frame anywhere.

My shackles are moved fwd and up and they are pretty close right now. I'm going to modify the collectors with V bands and put a small bend to clear the shaxkles.

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MTBLAZER89 said:
I never updated this. I went with some DNA headers on Amazon. I think they were $88.

I have threaded all the bolts in by hand. Plug clearance sends decent, and they don't touch the frame anywhere.

My shackles are moved fwd and up and they are pretty close right now. I'm going to modify the collectors with V bands and put a small bend to clear the shaxkles.

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I went with the full length El cheapo with the same luck but I would went with these in hindsight as I could made the exhaust run cleaner and the shackle wouldn't tag the collector
 
i never did update this thread myself after blowing 6 sets of gaskets i went with a manifold from summit racing ram horns that are ceramic coated . pulled em in dec of last year have not had trouble with exhaust since

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When the eBay 15% coupon rolled in this week I decided to join this party for $86 shipped. I'll run header buddies instead of the included reducers and add an O2 bung in each collector. The Jegs mild steel headers also dropped under $100, so it's probably coulda/woulda/shoulda. I've just had a pet theory lately that rust from the inside of the headers will plug the cats.

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MTBLAZER89 said:
Is anyone running the GMT400 short/mid length Chinese headers like these? https://www.ebay.com/itm/FIT-CHEVY-GMC-5-0-5-7-V8-C-K-TRUCK-88-97-STAINLESS-STEEL-HEADER-EXHAUST-MANIFOLD/252683225383?_trkparms=aid=555018&algo=PL.SIM&ao=1&asc=52935&meid=a610790d2b324233bcb5e9e151e46875&pid=100005&rk=1&rkt=12&mehot=pp&sd=232931603587&itm=252683225383&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

I took the manifolds off today and cleaning them up to reinstall seems Ugh. I was looking at the ones @skunked listed above, but these GMT series have the ball/socket collector which would be nicer.

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I’m running those exact ones on my 75 K5 with Vortec heads. Fit great clear everything barely, there’s very little space on the drivers side frame rail I can barely put a finger between the rail and the tube. Blazer is a sm465 so I couldn’t tell you about fitting an auto, and I’m running a mini starter
 
Everything clears on the passenger side. Just a bit lower and to the left of where my Flowtechs dumped. Don't know if the driveshaft will be a problem.

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Driver side motor mount needs lots of cutting. The hole pattern to the head is a little short so I drilled all but the center 2 out larger on both sides. Nowhere near the frame on either side.

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Kain are you still running the manifolds
If so do you recall the part number for them
If so how are they holding up.
I habe an 83 I am wanting to desmog an replace the manifolds
Mine is a stock 350/700r4 with 208
Thanks in advance
 
Thanks for the reply and the hunt about the bolts, you use any special headers bolts or just grade 8 bolts for them
 
i just grabbed grade 8 bolts that where a little over a 1/4 inch shorter
the ones it comes with bottoms out in the hole and when it warms up it leaks
used the gaskets it came with no need to spend if you don have to
 
one thing is you will have to adapt to your existing exhaust, they come out diff than stock manifolds
 
As an update, I can do 6 plugs with a socket, but 2 on the DS need a wrench. As for the material, magnets are not attracted and the stuff is hard on drill bits. I used my normal stainless method to start the O2 bung holes with sharpened masonry bits (because they have big carbide tips) and then followed up with a Lenox bi-metal hole saw, which seemed to fare pretty well. My normal drill bits were not doing much to the collector, which is a good sign. These dump lower than my previous Flowtech Afterburner headers did, and required a rather tight S-bend to get above the trans cross-member.
 
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