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Grandpa’s Blazer gettin fixed up…

Papa is fixing up grandpa’s ole Blazer
Is the SPID in the glovebox?

You should probably change the gear oil in the axles, so you can check it when you pull the inspection cover.

Martin
What is that? SPID? Sorry that acronym has not floated across my vegetable soup yet.
 
Question. Is there a simple dumb to disc conversion for the 78 L5 Blazer? Or brackets with a list of oem calipers and disc to use?
 
What is that? SPID? Sorry that acronym has not floated across my vegetable soup yet.
Service Parts Identification (SPID) label, its either on your inner fender well or in the clove box, printed white and blue paper with all your PRO codes. Looks like attached image

spid.jpg
 
Service Parts Identification (SPID) label, its either on your inner fender well or in the clove box, printed white and blue paper with all your PRO codes. Looks like attached image

View attachment 523554
I think I have seen this. I will go dig through boxes of parts tomorrow and see if I can find it.
 
Since a '78 should have come with front disc brakes, I'll assume you're talking about the rear axle. You'll find that most of the kits on the market are for cars, with 5-lug rotors. Keep in mind that swapping to rear disc comes with a host of other changes, like a different master cylinder and some new form of parking brake. Many would recommend just swapping to a later-model axle with drum-in-hat parking brake. I don't know if anybody has successfully grafted those brakes onto an older axle, but that would be cool.

Rustic Brakes took over TSM and they are still offering kits: https://www.rusticdiscbrakes.com/pr...suburban-blazer-thru-1991-rear-disc-brake-kit. It looks like the Eldorado caliper - search for people's experience with those...

Is the rear D44 or 10-bolt?
 
Since a '78 should have come with front disc brakes, I'll assume you're talking about the rear axle. You'll find that most of the kits on the market are for cars, with 5-lug rotors. Keep in mind that swapping to rear disc comes with a host of other changes, like a different master cylinder and some new form of parking brake. Many would recommend just swapping to a later-model axle with drum-in-hat parking brake. I don't know if anybody has successfully grafted those brakes onto an older axle, but that would be cool.

Rustic Brakes took over TSM and they are still offering kits: https://www.rusticdiscbrakes.com/pr...suburban-blazer-thru-1991-rear-disc-brake-kit. It looks like the Eldorado caliper - search for people's experience with those...

Is the rear D44 or 10-bolt?
I have 12 bolt rear end. Did a lot a searching and found rear conversion with parking brake, rotors, cables, calipers, straight bolt on for $450 and yes they tell you to replace MC and booster, and remove drum backer plates, but that is easy enough since its on a stand and the MC/booster is all in a box on the shelf anyway. lol


I think it is a 344 gear in the axle??

Rear springs rebuilt w energy suspension bushings and new hardware. As soon as bolts come in Friday I will install rear end. Should be in paint and ready to go by then.

IMG_3378.jpeg

IMG_3380.jpeg

IMG_3386.jpeg
 
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I have 12 bolt rear end. Did a lot a searching and found rear conversion with parking brake, rotors, cables, calipers, straight bolt on for $450 and yes they tell you to replace MC and booster, and remove drum backer plates, but that is easy enough since its on a stand and the MC/booster is all in a box on the shelf anyway. lol


I think it is a 344 gear in the axle??

Either springs rebuilt w energy suspension bushings and new hardware. As soon as bolts come in Friday I will install rear end. Should be in paint and ready to go by then.

View attachment 523880

View attachment 523881

View attachment 523882
The most common for those years was 3.42:1 ratio gears so you are on target with your guess
 
I believe this is in correct because it came out this way but looking online I see other variations on where the sleeve is located. Also there were no lock washers????

Bottom of 2nd pic is pass side.

IMG_3426-compressed.jpeg

IMG_3425-compressed.jpeg
 
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I believe this is in correct because it came out this way but looking online I see other variations on where the sleeve is located. Also there were no lock washers????
From the factory, the bolt and spacer goes on top of the frame flange. Nut and washer on the bottom. This would be less likely to hang up on something off-road. functionally, it doesn't matter. The purpose of the spacer is so the bolt is long enough to act like a small spring when the frame flexes so you don't pop the heads off. I have had a lot of these without lock washers, but the split lock washer really doesn't work the way you would think. If you want a locking feature, new distorted thread lock nuts would be the way to go.

1773959925267.png
 
I think the only thing wrong with that setup is that you could tag the bolts on some obstacles and bend them. The point of the spacers is respected - to allow longer stretch on the bolts to improve clamping force. Unless you have some other new stuff on the top side, the bolts could be reversed with spacers above the frame, but it's not an urgent change.
 
Found it… last box of parts I opened. Does this tell a story about rear end gearing?

IMG_3434.jpeg
 
Found it… last box of parts I opened. Does this tell a story about rear end gearing?

View attachment 523948
Unfortunately this one is not listing your gear ratio.
But a trailering special usually gets a little better gearing so for sure you don't have a 3.08:1
It could be the 3.73:1 which would be better but it's still possible it got the 3.42:1.
If you are precise you can figure it out if you raise the rear and mark your driveshaft and wheel then rotate the tire until you get a full 360.
And count while you're doing it how many revolutions you got in the driveshaft.
 
If you are wanting to go through the axle anyway and replace seals and inspect the condition of the gears, the numbers to get your gear ratio are on the ring gear (or you can count teeth).
 
Service Parts Identification (SPID) label, its either on your inner fender well or in the clove box, printed white and blue paper with all your PRO codes. Looks like attached image

View attachment 523554

It does. By not saying anything, it means it has the standard gears. A 1978 Blazer, with a 400 (which was only available with an automatic) means it has 3.07’s. Which were the standard gears.

IMG_1733.jpeg

Martin
 

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