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Grandpa’s Blazer gettin fixed up…

Papa is fixing up grandpa’s ole Blazer
Is this one of those kit metal garages? How do you like it?
 
Is this one of those kit metal garages? How do you like it?
My 20x30 barn on a slab. Works but get water inside if rains hard. Trying to get Betty in paint so not so much an issue.
 
Has anyone tried installing Restomod’s K5 rear disc conversion kit?
 
Has anyone tried installing Restomod’s K5 rear disc conversion kit?

I have no experience with them. May I ask, why do you want to swap to rear disc brakes?

It’s a lot of time, money, and hassle, and the rear drums work well if maintained. Also easier to get parts the closer to stock you stay.

Martin
 
I have no experience with them. May I ask, why do you want to swap to rear disc brakes?

It’s a lot of time, money, and hassle, and the rear drums work well if maintained. Also easier to get parts the closer to stock you stay.

Martin
I have had issues with two drum sets. Living the wet swampy Florida doesn’t help the “well maintained “ side of things. This set had good reviews and includes parking brake while using D154 calipers that local parts store has in stock along with pads. Just have to update the MC to larger booster and the line splitter to the Disc Disc setup. I am hearing one hole needs clearanced on bracket to fix my issue. Known fitment adjustment during install.
 
Help please… with these photos what can I learn about the front end. I see two holes that kind of scare me????? Should I be worried or is this survivable if knowing we ran and drove before tear down.

This is my first time working on 4wd vehicle let alone trying to restore one.

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In the rust belt, we call that axle "mint".

(3.08 does suck, but you need a master plan before worrying about that.)

As for disc/drum, there are a lot of parts to swap for the conversion, possibly a few rounds of trial and error. If you are OK with that and willing to do the research, there is probably no better time, as you have to re-install all the parts anyway and now have great access.

You should have that master plan settled before sinking money into a 10-bolt rear.
 
In the rust belt, we call that axle "mint".

(3.08 does suck, but you need a master plan before worrying about that.)

As for disc/drum, there are a lot of parts to swap for the conversion, possibly a few rounds of trial and error. If you are OK with that and willing to do the research, there is probably no better time, as you have to re-install all the parts anyway and now have great access.

You should have that master plan settled before sinking money into a 10-bolt rear.
Master plan is running driving pavement princess. Something to run grandkids around in maybe launch the boat now and again and go fishing. Just trying to keep her alive and surviving.
 
What tire size do you intend to run?

Martin
At least 33” maybe 35” if have clearance. I am doing a 1” body lift off frame, so I am to 33” direct fit 35” may require clearancing front fenders
 
Tire size will determine how pleasant driving will be. 3.08 gears will not be pleasant with 33-35" tires no matter how much power you add. If you are going to swap axles or regear, now is the time with everything accessible.
 
agreed, 3.08's will not be a pleasant experience with 35's. I ran 4.10's with 35's for a while and it was close to factory gearing. I have 4.88's now, but running 37's.
 
‘78 should have a 12 bolt rear. Better than a 10 bolt by a little bit.

TH350 so no over drive. I’d go 4.11’s.

Might look around your area. May find a whole set of axles with gears you can use someone is selling.
 

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