Shouldn’t the drain plug be here?
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Grandpa’s Blazer gettin fixed up…
- Thread starter Jon52
- Start date
Papa is fixing up grandpa’s ole Blazer
Also is it safe to pop off this cap clean it up and shoot into black paint? Was gonna paint the transfer case black and then clear coat the aluminum cases
You rock Dude. TY. I was stumped.
Yeah, the area you pointed out could totally be drilled and tapped for a plug (and you could do that), but the designers must have settled on the fact there were already holes drilled in that lower region and didn't do that.
I think painting cast iron is a good idea.
I think painting cast iron is a good idea.
Ok what is the correct part number for front seal for the th350 turbo 350K
What they gave me from the “book” is wrong…. Part # 9845. Not even the flange lip around it.
And the npo3 output to rear axle seal also anyone know???
What they gave me from the “book” is wrong…. Part # 9845. Not even the flange lip around it.
And the npo3 output to rear axle seal also anyone know???
Last edited:
Thank you. So no one thinks I am totally lame; brought one set home that didn’t work went back to parts store they couldn’t figure it out
Called my mechanic to talk with the because I don’t know proper terminology I called it a front trans seal they had it listed as front trans pump seal IDK don’t look right in the pic
This gives me a place to continue on with getting the right parts…
Ty
Called my mechanic to talk with the because I don’t know proper terminology I called it a front trans seal they had it listed as front trans pump seal IDK don’t look right in the pic
This gives me a place to continue on with getting the right parts…
Ty
This weekend we (me and the orange tractor) floated in the drive line and started POR15 under the body (cab section complete)
These bolts (red circle) should be head on bottom and have a 1" spacer on frame side. The spacer help keep the bolts from breaking when you get frame flex.
Yeah I am not a fan of unknown used roller lifters, esp at $400. New couldn't cost that much more. Now if the lifter where in an engine I knew, with no failure and normal wear, I might reuse those.
I like that you have a K case th350 with the bell housing brace. There should two more braces that go to plates under the engine mount buckets, to flexplate cover. Don't foreget these when the engine get installed.
TY I will flip the bolts. I appreciate input and feedback back.
X2 . And do NOT put spacer tubes between frame and crossmember for anyone finding this later .
Haha and for the record, I put them back the way they were when I removed them. So?????
And looking at other sites many delete the spacers and just put grade 8 bolts w lock washers and washers????
I am confused now.
Last edited:
do not delete the spacers, if you plan off road use. If you delete the spacers, and wheel this rig the frame will suffer and probably crack.
I am pretty sure up or down is the same, as long as you keep the spacers and the bolts don't stick out to low and get caught on anything you are fine
I'm fairly sure we had the spacer discussion during tear down on this thread...
Dam Ken how the hell did you remember that. Well done
I am fairly confident they came from the factory the way he has them currently.
Martin
Martin
really ? I mean maybe, but it's kinda dumb to have them protruding down to get scraped on a rock. Yeah I know the crossmember is lower, but in the middle, so the bolts and spacer under the frame are low hanging fruit.
