What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Grey Goose

Overview Gallery Discussion
Vombrown said:
OK so I did you a favor. There is a U PULL IT salvage yard in Chesapeake, Va. That's 2.5 hours away from you. Find someone that knows more than you do and go get yourself an engine. I think whole assemblies are under 300 bucks. There will be plenty of trucks with small block Chevrolet engines. Sounds like a long drive but 3 hours to save a thousand dollars is pretty cheap in my book.

On the website they list two in Virginia. ONe at Chesapeake and the other is at Virginia Beach. Go scouting.
Click to expand...

That’s my issue currently there is a pick a part right near me that has none but with my schedule it have little to no time to make a drive that long away and everything Ik it might seem like I’m wanting the easy way when I say but I just don’t have the sheer time to really be making that drive
 
modhunt said:
May I ask why you say that and if your taking about the power it makes I don’t really mess around on the road or straight abuse and engine but can I ask why you think?
Click to expand...
With your budget and knowledge base I think your best bet at being successful is with a direct drop in. I’m not one to judge power vs age. I had plenty of fast cars before I was mature enough to deserve them. I’m still alive, but not without near misses and thousands in fines and court costs.
 
Truckman4life said:
Ok so the steels lines and the rubber flex line are both bad. The hoses that come off the frame bracket to the caliper just unbolt and can be replaced easily and then just bleed the brakes to get the air out. If they are too short like after a lift kit and are stretching then you will need to get extended stainless hoses, there are some longer rubber factory ones that can work but I have always just went to the better stainless steel hoses.
Click to expand...
Yeah I know this and that’s why I was already going to replace the lines the my caliper when I pulled those off i saw my other lines where shot. My lines to the calipers weren’t bad they had a decent bit of wear and tear but would still be good for a while I was just future proofing my brakes for now because I like to stop you know lol
 
Abusfullofnuns said:
With your budget and knowledge base I think your best bet at being successful is with a direct drop in. I’m not one to judge power vs age. I had plenty of fast cars before I was mature enough to deserve them. I’m still alive, but not without near misses and thousands in fines and court costs.
Click to expand...
From what I’ve read 400s and 350 are almost exactly similar and they will bolt up to the same engine mounts etc. I personally wouldn’t be rebuild an engine at this point just because I don’t know nearly enough I’d be having my family friend who’s a mechanic rebuild it and I’d watch and help to learn and from what I’ve read the main thing people talk about is overheating I already has a plan to put electric fans on my rad and I can switch most of my current stuff over to that motor with his help the guy selling the 400 on here is asking 300 which is in my budget and we’d figure shipping out
 
swettysblazer said:
Take pictures of what you need replaced. The front clip is not hard at all to pull off- 6 bolts for the hood, a few on each fender, two on the bottom of the rad support, some wiring pigtails, and you are out.

Do the brake lines while the motor is out- it will be way easier to get to, and clean it up while you're at it.
Click to expand...
Okay I can upload a few pictures of what I’m replacing break wise when I get home from school today
 
Abusfullofnuns said:
With your budget and knowledge base I think your best bet at being successful is with a direct drop in. I’m not one to judge power vs age. I had plenty of fast cars before I was mature enough to deserve them. I’m still alive, but not without near misses and thousands in fines and court costs.
Click to expand...
After reading the post in the thread I made it is starting to look like maybe still with a 350 is that right way to go and throw a 400 crank in it to make a 383 on a rebuild if I can or just stay a 350
 
You’re killing me, smalls.

You’re taking crazy now. Don’t even think about a stroker for your application. Honestly, if your other truck has an LS and it’s known to be good, I would be putting my money toward getting that going in a truck with a good frame. Depending on what’s left to do, you could come out cheaper. Just a thought.
 
Abusfullofnuns said:
You’re killing me, smalls.

You’re taking crazy now. Don’t even think about a stroker for your application. Honestly, if your other truck has an LS and it’s known to be good, I would be putting my money toward getting that going in a truck with a good frame. Depending on what’s left to do, you could come out cheaper. Just a thought.
Click to expand...
For the ls I’d just have to hook it up to my current trans and go but my
Issue is the wiring and not really knowing at all about it the reason I want to keep a 350 or similar SBC is because I feel they would be easier to work on and I can learn them easier
 
First things first, if you think stuff is pricy out there the be happy you're not in CA. everything almost 2 or 3 times the amount out here.

Second thing, finish school and get a part time job where you can save and afford a little more. Don't rush things and finish the important things first.

Third thing, just focus on the basics to get it running and driving first then worry about upgrades later and pay attention to what people have to say on here. A lot of good info can be had and a lot of money can be saved by learning for someone else's trials and errors.

Last thing, I think you're best option for the engine would be to take the drive and get an engine from a junk yard. You can save money that way and I'm sure it will last you till you can save money for that dream engine or you figure out want you wanna do.

Im not much older then you (I'm 24) and I've jumped into a lot when I wish I would have known more. Read, read, read and learn everything you can before you do something that may end up costing you later.

You got this, just take you're time and do one thing at a time. That's all I got.
 
@Abusfullofnuns @Bent77 Ok so I checked Craigslist again and found a stock 350 for 350 I asked him if he kept his heads intake and carb could he drop price and he said yes it’s a 1 /12 hour drive there he said he’d know some more off if I came this week so it looks like I’m skipping school Friday probably to go get it is there andything y’all can specially think of for things I should check when I go?
 
MetalMulishaMarcus said:
First things first, if you think stuff is pricy out there the be happy you're not in CA. everything almost 2 or 3 times the amount out here.

Second thing, finish school and get a part time job where you can save and afford a little more. Don't rush things and finish the important things first.

Third thing, just focus on the basics to get it running and driving first then worry about upgrades later and pay attention to what people have to say on here. A lot of good info can be had and a lot of money can be saved by learning for someone else's trials and errors.

Last thing, I think you're best option for the engine would be to take the drive and get an engine from a junk yard. You can save money that way and I'm sure it will last you till you can save money for that dream engine or you figure out want you wanna do.

Im not much older then you (I'm 24) and I've jumped into a lot when I wish I would have known more. Read, read, read and learn everything you can before you do something that may end up costing you later.

You got this, just take you're time and do one thing at a time. That's all I got.
Click to expand...
I do currently have a job I work Thursday - Saturday good hours but don’t get paid anything and I’m being impatient I know but look at my post above this I kinda solved my engine issue and stopped being a dumbass and instead of getting it running I wanted to get more power at the same time
 
modhunt said:
I do currently have a job I work Thursday - Saturday good hours but don’t get paid anything and I’m being impatient I know but look at my post above this I kinda solved my engine issue and stopped being a dumbass and instead of getting it running I wanted to get more power at the same time
Click to expand...

I was in you're shoes once. It's not fun driving to work and the engine dying every time I stopped at a red light. I was on the "more power" kick for a while..a 383 stroker is my dream engine but for me, more can be had with a 5.3LS to I went that route. Lol I'm the most impatient person you'll ever talk to. I'm learning to slow down.

But I'm a better note, glad you found an engine. Make sure you Ask a lot of questions and if it's not good don't be afraid to walk away.

Ask how many miles on it.
How did it run before it was pulled.
Was there any problems with it.
Look for heavy rust if it's been outside, look for any water sitting on it because that might mean it may have water inside of it.
If he lets you, pull the pan and look inside of it and inspect the oil or pull the valve covers and look In it that way.
Anything you can think of, just ask and look for anything not normal.
 
MetalMulishaMarcus said:
I was in you're shoes once. It's not fun driving to work and the engine dying every time I stopped at a red light. I was on the "more power" kick for a while..a 383 stroker is my dream engine but for me, more can be had with a 5.3LS to I went that route. Lol I'm the most impatient person you'll ever talk to. I'm learning to slow down.

But I'm a better note, glad you found an engine. Make sure you Ask a lot of questions and if it's not good don't be afraid to walk away.

Ask how many miles on it.
How did it run before it was pulled.
Was there any problems with it.
Look for heavy rust if it's been outside, look for any water sitting on it because that might mean it may have water inside of it.
If he lets you, pull the pan and look inside of it and inspect the oil or pull the valve covers and look In it that way.
Anything you can think of, just ask and look for anything not normal.
Click to expand...
I plan on buying it the heads and up removed and using my own so I should check for rust is there any other big things other than water?
 
Nice shiny cylinder walls and pistons without too much carbon or any imperfections. Only other thing is to take a look at main and rod bearings. Seller may or may not let you have a look.
 
modhunt said:
I plan on buying it the heads and up removed and using my own so I should check for rust is there any other big things other than water?
Click to expand...

Metal shavings or chunks in the oil.
Look at the internals to make sure nothing was abused.
Maybe jiggle things and make sure nothings lose.
 
Grab it by the balancer on the front of the crank and see if there is any play back and forth.
I had a 4 bolt main 350 that I sold as a rebuilder that had over 1/2 inch play on the crank.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom