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Grey Goose

Installing gears correctly is not a just figure it out project. I’m concerned about your backlash, preload, pinion depth.
 
Installing gears correctly is not a just figure it out project. I’m concerned about your backlash, preload, pinion depth.
Everything is right I mean i did do some research but I had my close family friend whos a mechanic come look at it before i put my cover back on etc or even had tires on it and he said they looked good my pinion depth was a hair off
 
Brake lines aren't too bad. I grew up in WI and every vehicle I had in high school would blow a brake line due to rust. I got ok at replacing everything. I would buy the premade lines at the parts store(I had no clue about flaring lines) and swap them in using unions where needed. If you don't have one already find a good parts store with guys that know what they are doing and can help get you the right parts. It's hard now days. Every parts store has all the clueless kids like yourself working there that haven't learned yet. Take it slow and plan on learning a lot with your truck. I know I sure did back in high school.
 
Brake lines aren't too bad. I grew up in WI and every vehicle I had in high school would blow a brake line due to rust. I got ok at replacing everything. I would buy the premade lines at the parts store(I had no clue about flaring lines) and swap them in using unions where needed. If you don't have one already find a good parts store with guys that know what they are doing and can help get you the right parts. It's hard now days. Every parts store has all the clueless kids like yourself working there that haven't learned yet. Take it slow and plan on learning a lot with your truck. I know I sure did back in high school.
So the little lines the break down into the stainless steel brake lines are called flaring lines?
 
You can go two ways. Prebuilt sections that just need some massaging to fit. Problem will be finding the right length. That’s why he eluded to using unions and such to make it work. The true OG way would be to buy the line in a longer length and bend to be an exacting match. Once the right shape and length, you would cut and flare. There are different types of flaring depending on manufacturer of vehicles. It takes a special tool, but is a good one to have.
 
You can go two ways. Prebuilt sections that just need some massaging to fit. Problem will be finding the right length. That’s why he eluded to using unions and such to make it work. The true OG way would be to buy the line in a longer length and bend to be an exacting match. Once the right shape and length, you would cut and flare. There are different types of flaring depending on manufacturer of vehicles. It takes a special tool, but is a good one to have.
I mean with my tight budget I can’t really be buying tools and I don’t have a bender or anything so do you think pre bents and shimming the in would be better?
 
Shit is going to cost money, bro. These tools are cheapish, but can be borrowed from about any parts store. Small deposit and then returned when you bring them back.
 
Shit is going to cost money, bro. These tools are cheapish, but can be borrowed from about any parts store. Small deposit and then returned when you bring them back.

Yeah I know this truck is going cost a good bit up front and it will stay good for a long time but with my engine situation that wasn’t planned I already was going to replace the break lines then this happened I’m just wondering about cheapest solution for now I will pick up the tools eventually
 
Hold on I'm confused. What line is bad? The metal brake lines that run from the master cylinder down the frame and then connect to the rubber hoses or the rubber hose that goes from the bracket on the frame to the caliper or down to the axle in the rear?
 
Back to the engine? You said you had the heads off and there was a crack in the cylinder? Why were the heads off?
 
Back to the engine? You said you had the heads off and there was a crack in the cylinder? Why were the heads off?
Okay so originally when I started her up the next day after a lot of play she smoked really bad like a Subaru owner. So I called my close family friend and he thought it was cracked head which he was right the head was going bad when I bought the truck but held till I ran her hard so I pulled the head off and he bought me a new bone stock one and built it for me for free. So when he came over to drop it off he wanted to look at one more thing and behold there was a crack in the cylinder
 
Hold on I'm confused. What line is bad? The metal brake lines that run from the master cylinder down the frame and then connect to the rubber hoses or the rubber hose that goes from the bracket on the frame to the caliper or down to the axle in the rear?
The front lines that come out of the master cylinder that go from there to the the bracket by my wheel then that bracket that converts that line into the rubber hose down to my caliper does that make sense I can post pictures later if it doesn’t
 
Okay so originally when I started her up the next day after a lot of play she smoked really bad like a Subaru owner. So I called my close family friend and he thought it was cracked head which he was right the head was going bad when I bought the truck but held till I ran her hard so I pulled the head off and he bought me a new bone stock one and built it for me for free. So when he came over to drop it off he wanted to look at one more thing and behold there was a crack in the cylinder
Ok I gotcha. Yeah cheapest option is just to swing another used engine in there.
 
The front lines that come out of the master cylinder that go from there to the the bracket by my wheel then that bracket that converts that line into the rubber hose down to my caliper does that make sense I can post pictures later if it doesn’t
Ok so the steels lines and the rubber flex line are both bad. The hoses that come off the frame bracket to the caliper just unbolt and can be replaced easily and then just bleed the brakes to get the air out. If they are too short like after a lift kit and are stretching then you will need to get extended stainless hoses, there are some longer rubber factory ones that can work but I have always just went to the better stainless steel hoses.
 
OK so I did you a favor. There is a U PULL IT salvage yard in Chesapeake, Va. That's 2.5 hours away from you. Find someone that knows more than you do and go get yourself an engine. I think whole assemblies are under 300 bucks. There will be plenty of trucks with small block Chevrolet engines. Sounds like a long drive but 3 hours to save a thousand dollars is pretty cheap in my book.

On the website they list two in Virginia. ONe at Chesapeake and the other is at Virginia Beach. Go scouting.
 
I really want to emphasize that I think buying the 400 is a bad idea for you.
 
Take pictures of what you need replaced. The front clip is not hard at all to pull off- 6 bolts for the hood, a few on each fender, two on the bottom of the rad support, some wiring pigtails, and you are out.

Do the brake lines while the motor is out- it will be way easier to get to, and clean it up while you're at it.
 
I dove into a whole body swap a few years ago with the attitude of "If I don't know what I'm doing, I am going to learn along the way."

I think that attitude is the way you should approach this- don't be too proud to ask for help, but figuring things out for yourself can be rewarding. Come up with a plan, write it down, attack it, and get rollin
 
I really want to emphasize that I think buying the 400 is a bad idea for you.
May I ask why you say that and if your taking about the power it makes I don’t really mess around on the road or straight abuse and engine but can I ask why you think?
 

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