CK5
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Has anyone made a full frame

Got all my measurements tonight and then got it all drafted in the computer.
 
Got all my measurements tonight and then got it all drafted in the computer.

Awesome! Are you building that late model frame? Just wondering if we could compare measurements. I would be interested how different a pickup/blazer frame are.
 
Awesome! Are you building that late model frame? Just wondering if we could compare measurements. I would be interested how different a pickup/blazer frame are.

Mid to late 70's short box Chevy frame is what I measured up.
 
So what areas are getting modded? Just wondering. At least on yours Jess. Your doing a link style suspension so the front of the frame could be changed to accommodate a winch much easier. I know both of you guys are looking at truly streetable rigs. So any body mods ?
 
I have been considering making the frame 28" outside from tip to tip.

Edit: while making some things better some would get worse. Tcase space would probably be really bad.
 
I'll probably keep the frame width at 34 all the way. I don't think I will be narrowing the body. The goal of this rig is a good reliable rig that if needed I can drive on the road 4 hrs and go wheeling. It's not going to be a show queen. I will cut the fenders etc. for measurements I have been mainly measuring the top of the frame. Since everything will be custom down below the bottom doesn't matter. What were you thinking about the front?
 
I'll probably keep the frame width at 34 all the way. I don't think I will be narrowing the body. The goal of this rig is a good reliable rig that if needed I can drive on the road 4 hrs and go wheeling. It's not going to be a show queen. I will cut the fenders etc. for measurements I have been mainly measuring the top of the frame. Since everything will be custom down below the bottom doesn't matter. What were you thinking about the front?

Like maybe ditching the whole core support using tube up there sliding the radiator back and to the side to allow for the winch to be tucked in tight. That would allow the frame rails to be at a higher height.

I don't know how far you are gonna go with stuff like that but building from scratch gives you the chance to do it. Also incorporating slider mounts into the frame. To make them removable. Making the gas tank skid part of the actual frame just stuff like that extra side bumper bracing points. I am sure I can think of more
 
Also rear shock mounting points. Some way to put them in a better spot not sure exactly how but gotta be a way or are you doing coilovers back there ?
 
Also rear shock mounting points. Some way to put them in a better spot not sure exactly how but gotta be a way or are you doing coilovers back there ?


That makes a bunch of sense. Hmm now you are giving me ideas. Now I have to get front fenders and start to mock the body to measure. Yes the plan is 2.5 coil overs.
 
Well I started measuring yesterday, but I need to get the core support, bumper and front axle off then I can get better measurements.

It looks like I can keep the frame width at 34" until it raises and necks down for the motor. Trying to figure out why GM would widen the frame to 37" in the middle for only 20" or so. Hopefully I can get it stripped to just the frame on thursday or friday. It is pretty amazing how much a stock frame flexes btw.

The frame needs to be narrow at the front to keep clearance between the frame/steering box and the tires. The 88+ frames are much wider but put the steering box on the inside of the frame.

The frame needs to be as wide as possible for rigidity. The super narrow 34" frame is part of why the 67-87 frames are so floppy, every newer generation is about a foot wider than that.

It's all a balance, I really like the narrower frame on my Blazer/buggy because there is less frame to get hung up on but it gets it's structure from the "cage" that's tied to the frame.
 
The frame needs to be narrow at the front to keep clearance between the frame/steering box and the tires. The 88+ frames are much wider but put the steering box on the inside of the frame.

The frame needs to be as wide as possible for rigidity. The super narrow 34" frame is part of why the 67-87 frames are so floppy, every newer generation is about a foot wider than that.

It's all a balance, I really like the narrower frame on my Blazer/buggy because there is less frame to get hung up on but it gets it's structure from the "cage" that's tied to the frame.


It will be getting a cage as well that will be tied to the frame solid. I could always move the steering box to the inside of the frame. Eric I really like your idea of keeping the rails higher in the front. I would have to see what I could get for a radiator before I would commit to that. I have a perfect 4 core radiator in the other rig, and the goal was to use almost everything but the tbi motor from it.
 
I could see rails higher in the front but how high can you go before it starts making things harder to work on. Specifically exhaust. What engine are you running?

Shock mounting in the rear would be better on the narrow frame width but in the end, the body is whats in the way more than anything.

I like the idea of pulling a winch back in further. Maybe theres a radiator that is shorter and could be mounted high so a winch could be underneath. Probably wouldn't be to hard to mod a radiator and take some of the bottom off of it.
 
Pulled from diy4x Facebook. Kert is for sure going. To win
tazarupu.jpg
 
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I was just going to post that pic here.

What you are looking at is the two frame horns and the rear section the flat area above the axle on back. Rest of this frame will be 2x6" rec. tube. So far coming together very easily. I'd say I'm within a 32nd of an inch from my drawings. Need a digital tape with a .01" resolution.
 
I was just going to post that pic here.



What you are looking at is the two frame horns and the rear section the flat area above the axle on back. Rest of this frame will be 2x6" rec. tube. So far coming together very easily. I'd say I'm within a 32nd of an inch from my drawings. Need a digital tape with a .01" resolution.


Awesome. I really like the idea of the 2x4 in the rear. I hope together going as soon as I can get my dads k5 out of my shop.
 
I think i'm going to redo one of the frame horns so the seem for the rect. tube is on the inside of all the pieces. Might as well do it as perfect as possible.
 
Just read this thread and it has me thinking. I was going to use the ORD coilover kit in the front of my 75 K20. I planned on using coilovers/links in the back with a pushrod setup but my frame is not the best and this sounds like an easy route. Just need to modify the frame I have mocked up in CAD.

I just threw some ideas at my dad and he thinks it would be doable pretty easily without a frame table. He used to stretch and shorten truck frames and he is a better welder than I am. Time to get some time in with him while I can.
 
Just read this thread and it has me thinking. I was going to use the ORD coilover kit in the front of my 75 K20. I planned on using coilovers/links in the back with a pushrod setup but my frame is not the best and this sounds like an easy route. Just need to modify the frame I have mocked up in CAD.



I just threw some ideas at my dad and he thinks it would be doable pretty easily without a frame table. He used to stretch and shorten truck frames and he is a better welder than I am. Time to get some time in with him while I can.


What cad program do you have? I would be interested in the dwg files to help speed up the process for me. If not screen shots with dimensions would be great.
 
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