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Heater box door actuator tab

If you look under the passenger dash where the heater core is you'll see a black plastic housing bolted to the firewall. That housing has to come out to get at this piece. Its not easy but you should have to take the actual dash out (it actually doesnt come out anyway unless you cut it out which is what i did).
 
looks like I have some work ahead of me:doah: Needs done though:dunno:
 
Look at my post on pg 2. There is a link to a detailed write up I did on how to get that box out as well as making my own replacement clip out of a piece of 5/16 tube. With pics. It's not overly difficult just time consuming.
 
goathearder said:
If you look under the passenger dash where the heater core is you'll see a black plastic housing bolted to the firewall. That housing has to come out to get at this piece. Its not easy but you should have to take the actual dash out (it actually doesnt come out anyway unless you cut it out which is what i did).
Click to expand...
On my 91 it was a 5 minute job.

1. Remove glove box door

2. Remove front facing duct box which is bolted to heater box. There are only 3-4 bolts. Then grab it and pull it right, down, and out.

3. You will now see the blend door and broken tab. Replace.

4. Put everything back.
 
You're right. I remember now that clip was easier than having to remove the whole box, could be done in the truck. I had mine out to replace the heater core.
 
I gotta get off my a$$ and either do my kids ujoints or this clip:thinking: I dont know which one sounds worse and I have NO warm place to do them in at the moment
 
Although mine is an '88 (K5), I have the same broken little plastic tab. Cheyenne Pickup Parts website says it only goes to '87. Any ideas? Damn sure looks the same to me.

Thanks
 
shady said:
I gotta get off my a$$ and either do my kids ujoints or this clip:thinking: I dont know which one sounds worse and I have NO warm place to do them in at the moment
Click to expand...
Doh! Start your truck, turn on heater, warm it up. Then go work on it with the fan on low. You'll be nice and warm! :woot:
 
Yeah i ended up grabbing the welder and doing some micro-fab when mine broke. Didnt feel like ever having to get back in there again for that. Looked kinda similar to the steel one a few posts above.
 
I formed a small piece of plumbers strap that goes over the curve and is held by the screw. Not ideal, but it has been holding for a few years. I took one look at that part and assumed there is no way I will find a new one...now I know if mine breaks I have options :waytogo:
 
I fixed mine finally but forgot pics:doah: I cut a slot in a 3/8 bolt and drilled the 2 holes. went in simple and is more than stiff enough to not bend. Like my first attempt:whistle:
 
I finally got time (a day off) to install this piece. I wanted to check everything out before I put all of the ducting back in. The door never moves. No matter what setting I select, it remains in one place. I can move it with my hands, so it is not frozen or physically blocked. Also, the compressor is never engaging, not doing anything. The only thing that does work is when I slide from Cold to Hot the temperature of the air coming out of that hole changes. Oh, and the fan works well.

With the hours I am working 12/day during week, usually 8-10 on Saturday, Sundays are catch up around the house (I am the new guy, new career after retiring from the Navy, and trying to get off on the right foot. We've all played that game before.....). Anyway, I simply don't have time to fix it, and I really want it working. It is hot for about 4 months a year where I live and I know that I would drive it more if it worked.

So, the question is if anyone knows a solid (honest, fair prices, etc) place in the San Diego area where I can just take my bag of ducting and the Blazer, drop it off, and pick it up with a fully functional A/C. Sure, part of me hates to pay someone else to do it, and to let someone else mess with my Blazer, but at this point I have to be honest with myself. I had the new plastic piece for a few months and it took me this long just to get time to fix that........

Any recommendations are appreciated.
 
Kept at it. Here is what (I think) I discovered. The Dark Green wire from the ECM is not putting anything out. Reading my shop manual (I have the actual shop manual, not a Haynes or whatever), I think it says that the ECM will not let the compressor turn on if there is not refrigerant in the system. Does that makes sense?
 
Yes, there is a low pressure switch by the accumulator. Jumper the switch and see if it turns the compressor on.

Martin
 
That did it. The compressor engaged. Thanks man, I really appreciate it. Now I just have to figure out why that door is not moving.

I really appreciate the help.
 
Are you trying to see if it moves with the engine running or off? A lot of the HVAC stuff uses engine vacuum to operate.

Martin
 
Appreciate it man, but no, I knew I had to have it running. Just found a vacuum hose broken! Awesome, I am running to the parts store before they close!
 
Sweet, it is all back together, ducting installed, and everything works. Oh, and it idles better without that vacuum leak! For some reason fan no longer works on the highest setting, but whatever. All I have to do is charge it, fix any leaks, and it is good to go.

I appreciate the assistance, both direct and indirect (I learn a ton just reading this forum).

You guys rock.
 
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