What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Helllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllp! D60 broken stud

Somewhere ive seen someone covert to a u bolt. It was on a bronco and they literally just notched the housing at the bottom webbing. Ruffstuff's dana 60 spring plate for the studded side features a third hole for another stud but you could put another stud in between the two and just run the two studs until you fix the 3rd.

This damn website wont let me copy and paste but I found something you might want to check out. Google search: dana 60 studs to u bolt conversion. The fist site that pops up should be planet 4x4. Click that and find the pirate 4x4 links. Some good info about making it a u bolt.
 
K85 Octane said:
I'm quoting myself cause I want another option, like a fall back plan so at least I can make Rubicon. :waytogo:
Click to expand...

Mine used to be two u-bolt this until two weeks ago. That's the way Mike did it when he built my truck. I don't know of a spring plate for it due to the 4" hole spacing for the "casting" side u-bolts. Not sure if he made it or bought it. Sorry, I ended up modifying my spring plate to go back to studs so I can't even send you the one I had.

He had to notch the web on the back side of the housing and drilled a hole through the web on the bottom of the housing. Seemed to work fine but you have to bend open the u-bolt - not sure how much - to get it through and around the housing. I just cut it off. Seemed easier.

When I started on the spring swap I didn't even know that the casting side had studs. When I replaced my front springs I stripped a u-bolt so I just bought two tube side u-bolts and two casting side u-bolts. Didn't realize the problem until I tried to swap u-bolts. No way I was going to be able "bend open" the DIY4X grade 8 u-bolts.:haha:
 
Two questions, then I'm off to work and will check in with my phone off and on.

1) If I were to use a U-bolt, is it the same size as the U-bolt already on that side?

2) What are you guys drilling the studs out with? What I have made a scratch, that's it. If I could drill it some at all I'm sure I could get the weld to penetrate better for another try with a nut.
 
K85 Octane said:
Two questions, then I'm off to work and will check in with my phone off and on.

1) If I were to use a U-bolt, is it the same size as the U-bolt already on that side?
Click to expand...

Yes, you would need another "casting side" u-bolts. Mine were both the same size when I took them off. If it comes to that and you have to do it I can take some pictures of how he modified my diff casting webs.

You will want to get a "cheap" u-bolt so you can bend it open to get it on and then bend it back. At least this would be a reversible modification when you get home, other than weakening the diff casting somewhat from drilling and notching.
 
I had the same one broken, tried everything posted above to get it out...Didn't budge...I ended up drilling and tapping it out to next size and ran a bolt instead of a stud. It's been holding up fine for 7+ years.
 
Also, it's possible the broken stud is grade 8 which will be a bugger to drill.
 
The u-bolt is 4.5" x 11.5" x 5/8"
DSC00771.jpg

DSC00767.jpg
 
fourwheelerjeff said:
The u-bolt is 4.5" x 11.5" x 5/8"
DSC00771.jpg
Click to expand...

Mine looked just like that except he just notched the rear web which necessitated bending the bolt. Just taking it off like above allows you to put u-bolt on upside down through the web hole and then pivot up into position. There's really no downside to taking all of the web off like that as the structural integrity of the web is already gone when notched.
 
I'm in the process of fixing my 3rd broken one. Originally used the studs out of a Superlift kit and broke both at different times in a relatively short time.

One I was able to drill out and extract with an EZ out after a few cycles of heating up the casting. The other one I wound up messing up the threads and drilled it out and used an helicoil, which is still fine to this day.

Used grade 8 bolts after that with no problems for years. During my last trip it broke the driver's side center pin and the passenger side upper shackle to frame bolt. When I got it home and started pulling the axle is when one of the bolts broke. Put an impact on it and it spun hard about 1/4 turn and then broke off. I'm guessing the stress of the broken center pin and shackle bolt probably didn't help.

Has anybody drilled them out to 3/4"? Looking at that option or converting to a u-bolt.
 
It looks like you might be going the route of a U-Bolt, but I figured I'd offer up the following: soak the SOB in Kroil and try heating/extracting one more time.

I have flat shocked myself with the stuff I've pulled apart after Kroil treatment.

You can get it at NAPA.
 
longbedder said:
It looks like you might be going the route of a U-Bolt, but I figured I'd offer up the following: soak the SOB in Kroil and try heating/extracting one more time.

I have flat shocked myself with the stuff I've pulled apart after Kroil treatment.

You can get it at NAPA.
Click to expand...


Kroil is awesome! Thats what I usually use until I found out acetone and atf were better. If you can get something off with kroil though youd better look for where it was welded lol.
 
You tried some good stuff but in the wrong order.

You want to use heat as a last resort as more often than not even without quenching afterwards the broken stud/bolt/etc (whatever you're extracting) will become hard.

Ideally you want to center punch then drill, stepping up in size and try an EZ-Out. As rene said earlier the square style seem to hold up better than the left hand spiral kind.


Ok so at this point if you're still up for trying to extract it go to the hardware store and go in the masonry section. Buy a couple of carbide tipped masonry drill bits. Start with 1/4" and step up from there.
They suck at pushing chips out so you'll have to just pull up more often to get the chips ejected.
Don't knock it until you try it. They don't last long like the "correct" carbide tipped or solid carbide drill bits for steel but they're REALLY cheap and work great for one time emergency stuff like this.

Anywhoo, do that and take your time then use a square EZ-Out.
 
I will add that in general heating a cooling cycles will "break" the rust bond loose as well.

The best thing you can have in your tool arsenal is a good propane type torch. Get a nice setup that has the auto lighter and uses those little 1lb bottles of propane. Good for many things trust me.

Heat the heck out of the casting around the stud and let it cool, do this a few times and also include whatever kind of panther piss (penetrating oil for those novices) you desire. The heat will push out the oil and also help to draw it in.

Drill out the stud as stated above and work the easy out method. Don't be afraid to hit the housing with a hammer as well.

This is brute force type job, fire and hammers are your friends.

Or just do a u-bolt. Good luck.
 
I've seen guys drill holes in a ball bearing with carbide tipped masonary bits before!..:eek1:...they'll cut just about anything,some will need the tips to be brazed on or re-sharpened to work best on hardened steel..

Anyone ever hear of or use these
"Rescue Bits"?...saw these on Youtube and I'm tempted to try one...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FkIH7DhQJzA
 
I got some flux wire yesterday, should I bother trying or will I end up hurting my chances of drilling?

Avery: you talking like hammer drill bits? I've got some Bosch ones but don't know if they are carbide tipped.

I've got PB Blaster, acetone, and ATF. I've got a mapp gas torch too. :)

I think finding a good EZ out is my problem, everything I've ever used has broken in the past. I have a few steel depots around that carry bits and such, gotta find a way to stop by one.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom