I'm not sure if they're the hammer drill style or not. It looks like a normal drill bit but has a chunk of carbide attached to the end that is sharpened and does all the cutting.
CK5
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Helllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllp! D60 broken stud
- Thread starter K85 Octane
- Start date
So when welding a nut on with a smaller machine I use Flux core which your already doing. If I can get it to stick I try to grind a ramp or notch into the nut I am welding on. Start on the nut bring the weld down to the broken stud. You can't just sit on the stud and expect it to penetrate. You gotta start on the nut bring the heat down. Build heat on the nut and bring said heat down to the stud
79bonanza
1/2 ton status
I'd just trailor it or get a tow truck to get me to a shop and let them handle it. Beats killing the threads in the housing or having it grind it for another u bolt. Any good machine shop should be able to get it out in about 5 minutes
Helicoils are awesome. Get the proper helicoil kit, drill out the stud, tap drill the hole, retap, install helicoil. Better than new!
A good suggestion but I would imagine any good shop that you'd want to fix it (machine shop, etc) is not going to want to work on it in the truck.
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Exactly. Any machine shop will want to get that thing up on a mill to bore that stud out.
79bonanza
1/2 ton status
Yeah I guess that's true too, maybe you just need to sweet talk them a little and do some heavy cleaning on the work area.
I'm just going on how my luck is lol if I tried drilling it out it'd be about as straight as a circle and coming thru the axle tube lmao
I'm just going on how my luck is lol if I tried drilling it out it'd be about as straight as a circle and coming thru the axle tube lmao
Just bought some cobalt and carbide bits plus a square extractor.
Which should I try first weld or drill?
Which should I try first weld or drill?
Drill
drill first then heat it up cherry red. then put some wax on it like from a crayon. it will suck into the threads like sweating a pluming joint then you can weld your nut on to it, once it cools you can break it loose and spin it out as long as it isn't cross threaded. this is machine shop gen 1 that they don't tell you about. i have spun out exhaust manifold studs by hand doing this that were broke off flush in the head. an old buddy showed me this years ago when i broke one off i was amazed .
Stomis
Professional Amateur
I beg to differ that a 110v welder doesnt have enough balls to weld a nut to that. You just need to be smart about it. Stop putting the nut on and trying to weld through it, thats never going to work. You need to tack tack tack tack on top of the stud until you've built enough material that when you do plug weld the nut to it you're actually grabbing something.
Rusty is right in saying that just trying to plug/rosette weld a nut to that wont work but it can be made to work.
And forget the additional heat. The bond of rust will be broken when you successfully penetrate the top of the stud with a weld. Another good trick to get her looser is to smack the stud with a hammer and punch a few good shots prior to welding the nut on.
Rusty is right in saying that just trying to plug/rosette weld a nut to that wont work but it can be made to work.
And forget the additional heat. The bond of rust will be broken when you successfully penetrate the top of the stud with a weld. Another good trick to get her looser is to smack the stud with a hammer and punch a few good shots prior to welding the nut on.
I've had the best luck using the welded nut trick on aluminum parts,then I cant end up welding the busted bolt to the casting!..
I'm not very good at using that trick on cast iron or steel parts..
Also,I found trying to weld a nut onto a flush broken stud rarely worked for me,not for several attempts anyway--a better method that works more often on the first attempt is to lay a washer with a hole the same size as the busted bolt over the broken bolt and I use my arc welder turned up to about 70 amps to melt into the busted bolt,then flow the metal onto the washer and fill in the hole--then weld a nut to the washer..its tough to get a good arc going without the washer moving though...with a MIG its a lot easier,but I dont own one..
By applying steady pressure to the wrench,as the heat from welding soaks into the metal surrounding the bolt it'll expand enough to let it unscrew--this may take several minutes and requires patience to hold pressure on the wrench long enough..
Sometimes heating things up cherry red works,other times it doesn't,then your forced to try drilling --that is why I liked the idea of those Rescue Bits,they can whittle things away that typical drills wont touch..
I'm not very good at using that trick on cast iron or steel parts..
Also,I found trying to weld a nut onto a flush broken stud rarely worked for me,not for several attempts anyway--a better method that works more often on the first attempt is to lay a washer with a hole the same size as the busted bolt over the broken bolt and I use my arc welder turned up to about 70 amps to melt into the busted bolt,then flow the metal onto the washer and fill in the hole--then weld a nut to the washer..its tough to get a good arc going without the washer moving though...with a MIG its a lot easier,but I dont own one..
By applying steady pressure to the wrench,as the heat from welding soaks into the metal surrounding the bolt it'll expand enough to let it unscrew--this may take several minutes and requires patience to hold pressure on the wrench long enough..
Sometimes heating things up cherry red works,other times it doesn't,then your forced to try drilling --that is why I liked the idea of those Rescue Bits,they can whittle things away that typical drills wont touch..
I'll have to look into a Rescue Bit, I checked out the video during work.
Once you heat that sucker up red hot drilling is gonna be awful.
That's what I said before but people won't stop telling him to weld/heat it up.
USE HEAT (INCLUDING HEAT FROM WELDING) AS A LAST RESORT!
It usually works but you put yourself in a corner if you haven't already drilled out the center of the stud before heating it up.
I always wondered if the welding would work better with some thin jam nuts - just for the sake of getting better penetration to the stud. Should be even better by drilling into the stud some first.
I also wonder what happens to the flux when pooling up flux core wire into a hole like this.
I also wonder what happens to the flux when pooling up flux core wire into a hole like this.
I'm worried about the flux making the stud TIGHTER in the threads.
That's why I asked about which to do first. It sounds like heat is going to make it harder to drill, but I've never dealt with this before so I'm not sure. I've already heated it twice including trying to weld to it twice. Now that I have several bits ready to go, it may be too late.
I've also been afraid of snapping an EZ out and then my chances of welding a nut on are gone. So I wasn't sure if the weld trick was plan A or plan B. Kinda sounds like it's important. Sh**
In theory heat should not make it any harder. Carbon steel composition is changed when you heat it up and cool it fast or slow.
If you heat it up and throw water on it, yes its gonna get hard. If you heat it up and walk away, it really should not change alot.
If it is hard, you need to get it red hot, and then let it cool slow. By slowly bringing down the temp of the torch on it. Its called normalizing or annealing.
Yah i took a metallurgy class at community college one time. So im pretty much a pro....
If you heat it up and throw water on it, yes its gonna get hard. If you heat it up and walk away, it really should not change alot.
If it is hard, you need to get it red hot, and then let it cool slow. By slowly bringing down the temp of the torch on it. Its called normalizing or annealing.
Yah i took a metallurgy class at community college one time. So im pretty much a pro....
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
This guy has it figured out. Heat wont do anything for you in this situation. I know this sucks bad and this isnt what you want to hear but if it were me id take the axle out or u bolt it. It would totally change how you could go about fixing this problem if the axle was out but Im not sure if you have the space to do that. As a machinist id bore both holes out for 3/4" studs or bolts. Maybe its not an option but a good machinist could have it knocked out in a few hours.
If that just cant happen id just drill it. Im sure that stud is some hard ass steel which isnt pleasant to drill but you may be able to start small.
Too bad the welder wont work. I couldnt do it with a mig but a good sized tig would make it easier.
You can do it!
LOL, well this is what it looks like currently. And I'm using all the space I have, including parking my DD on my neighbor's property HAhahahahahaha THAT'S how focked I am. And I'm still waiting for my new superjoint cups to come in the mail, can't start wheel bearings till then anyway. On a good note, the city hasn't cited me yet 
looks like rain thursday/friday lol
looks like rain thursday/friday lol
