CK5
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Help, 6 mpg!!! Why!!!!!?????

So why does everybody with diesel engines always keep their trucks running for ever instead of turning them off if its so bad, wouldnt less rpms be easier on moving parts? My buddies cummins has like 300000 on the motor and lets it idle all the time, no problems yet???



Honestly? We are mostly showing off like a big rig or something, they don't even do as much idling as they used to do.
It takes so much longer to warm up the oil to operating temp that more wear occurs when warming up at idle than driving off (easy now) after a few seconds of running to get pressures up.
At home Depot loading up I still idle it anyway haha :woot:
 
Honestly? We are mostly showing off like a big rig or something, they don't even do as much idling as they used to do.
It takes so much longer to warm up the oil to operating temp that more wear occurs when warming up at idle than driving off (easy now) after a few seconds of running to get pressures up.
At home Depot loading up I still idle it anyway haha :woot:


Haha true you guys are just big showoffs lol, i would :waytogo:. My whole argument was that i bought an oil pan heater so my oils nice and warm in the morning, and i got crap lol. It works by the way lol.
 
Lol is it? i wouldnt know ive never messed with gear ratios. :dunno:
So basically 3 and 3/4s of a turn. ok. Ill check it tomorrow night
Yep, the number is a shorthand. Its actually 3.73 to 1.

With the 3.73 being the input from the shaft.

So the shaft turns 3.73 times per wheel rotation and you get 3.73 times the torque.
Minus friction

So, a 4.11 is 4.11 to 1.

Etc.
 
Yep, the number is a shorthand. Its actually 3.73 to 1.
With the 3.73 being the input from the shaft.
So the shaft turns 3.73 times per wheel rotation and you get 3.73 times the torque.
Minus friction
So, a 4.11 is 4.11 to 1.
Etc.

Ahh i see now it makes sence. So bigger number equals more torque, plus higher rps. I do mostly city driving so if everybody thinks i have 4.56s or something wouldnt that be better on gas in start and stop driving than a lower amount???? Vs a lower number having really good highway but really bad city.
 
I honestly don't know why we are even continuing this conversation. Until you actually know EXACTLY what gear ratio you have it is anyones guess as to why your fuel mileage is so bad. If you don't want to check your gear ratio then maybe you shouldn't be complaining about your bad mileage and just deal with it as noone can help until we have the needed info on hand. :deal:
 
I honestly don't know why we are even continuing this conversation. Until you actually know EXACTLY what gear ratio you have it is anyones guess as to why your fuel mileage is so bad. If you don't want to check your gear ratio then maybe you shouldn't be complaining about your bad mileage and just deal with it as noone can help until we have the needed info on hand. :deal:

I just wrote above that im going to check it tomorrow after work, i just got home a few hours ago and its snowin like a B****. Ill go down to my buddies garage after work tomorrow and check it out. promise. :D
 
Bought this ProHeat oil pan warmer, supposed to heat 6 quarts of oil from -40 to 60 degrees in a few hours. Seems to be working, not like the truck is hot when i get in, but warms up much quicker with less idle time. 250 watts so im gonna get a timer that turns on about 3 or 4 a.m because im up at 6 for work every mornin. Made in the old USA though so :waytogo:

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Also i jus put in a new electronic choke, mine went out and ive had a tractor choke from TSC rigged up for a few weeks. What a pain, takes like 8 tries to start it on a cold morning, ive been really breakin in that new starter lol. The electronic one works so much better once adjusted right.
Also i had 5 points at auto zone a couple weeks ago and that means $20 lol so i splurged on a new gas line, mine looked pretty dry rotted. But its pretty aint it lol. :D Now to take care of that big wire mess, and cut that cat off.

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You'll get better performance and probably slightly better fuel mileage once you ditch that air cleaner for one that sucks COLD air instead of the hot underhood air.
 
I disagree--in cold weather a" heated "air cleaner is a must for maxumum fuel eficciency....it helps the fuel vaporize properly and keeps the carb warm enough to prevent icing....tis true a colder fuel air mixture increases power in hot summer weather but in winter it'll decrease mileage substantially....

GM introduced the air cleaners with hot air intake pipes coming off a "stove" on the exhaust manifold in '68 to help the leaner mixtures fire more readily and prevent bogging or flat spots during acceleration...it was part of the controlled combustion system (CCS) that also had the introduction of the 195 degree T-stat and advanced ignition timing ,among other things to not only lower emissions,but improve driveability and fuel mileage...
 
check your cat, check the timing, check the state of tune. loose nut behind the wheel?.......until the vehicle is running the best it can who really cares what the gear ratio is at this point. i still don't see any reason for that intake setup.......is that supposed to "hot rod" it and for what purpose? an engine is a system where all components need to work together as a unit, any mismatched parts will spoil the recipe and do more harm than good. that's my $.02.

if you have a leak in the kitchen sink there is no reason to check the boiler. throw some 1 tons with 5.13's and 40's under there, that'll fix it.:whistle:
 
throw some 1 tons with 5.13's and 40's under there, that'll fix it.:whistle:

ya know i was thinking the same thing.... but maybe he is too low to the ground... some mog portals maybe needed too... but definitely get super fast gears.. for maximum efficient gas mileage.. :haha:
 
check your cat, check the timing, check the state of tune. loose nut behind the wheel?.......until the vehicle is running the best it can who really cares what the gear ratio is at this point. i still don't see any reason for that intake setup.......is that supposed to "hot rod" it and for what purpose? an engine is a system where all components need to work together as a unit, any mismatched parts will spoil the recipe and do more harm than good. that's my $.02.

if you have a leak in the kitchen sink there is no reason to check the boiler. throw some 1 tons with 5.13's and 40's under there, that'll fix it.:whistle:


I didnt put the whole setup in their, thats how i bought it. What would you recommend? I honestly do like the looks of it (once its cleaned up) but if its that bad of a set up i guess i could get rid of it. I will be taking this truck to the sand dunes once its summer so its gotta have enough power to climb lol.
 
ya know i was thinking the same thing.... but maybe he is too low to the ground... some mog portals maybe needed too... but definitely get super fast gears.. for maximum efficient gas mileage.. :haha:

Haha i know its pretty lame, but gotta start somewhere. My dad had 3 of these things and i always loved them and have been searching for one forever, but hard to come by up here with the salt on the roads. Most are rust buckets.
 
You'll get better performance and probably slightly better fuel mileage once you ditch that air cleaner for one that sucks COLD air instead of the hot underhood air.


In fact the riser on the left of the pic (the round duct fitting) is for the heat off the manifold to the stock air filter and it is to heat the air for better fuel economy.
 
In fact the riser on the left of the pic (the round duct fitting) is for the heat off the manifold to the stock air filter and it is to heat the air for better fuel economy.

That only functions for several minutes until the thermal switch in the air cleaner housing is warm enough then the trap door closes and ONLY sucks air through the duct from the grill area. :deal:

The system was designed to help the engine warm up quicker when cold.
 
I didnt put the whole setup in their, thats how i bought it. What would you recommend? I honestly do like the looks of it (once its cleaned up) but if its that bad of a set up i guess i could get rid of it. I will be taking this truck to the sand dunes once its summer so its gotta have enough power to climb lol.

Well the dunes means climbing. You can spot the Holley and Edelbrock guys right away - once the climb starts they start blowing black smoke and slowing down. You have two choices for climbing - EFI and Quadrajet. Guess what, they both improve your gas mileage as well (OK, yes Holley and Edelbrock have "off road" carbs now...)
 
another hint is that Performer RPM manifold is made for top end (up to 6,500 rpm)and not low to mid torque. that carb you have is 600 cfm i think and all you need is 500 to make that motor run just fine. that carb doesn't belong on that manifold either. if you're "needing" to run Edelbrock stuff get a Performer manifold (not Performer RPM) with a 1403 carb. the bone stock 305 motor, tuned properly, worked fine for me in my '85.
 
Well the dunes means climbing. You can spot the Holley and Edelbrock guys right away - once the climb starts they start blowing black smoke and slowing down. You have two choices for climbing - EFI and Quadrajet. Guess what, they both improve your gas mileage as well (OK, yes Holley and Edelbrock have "off road" carbs now...)

Is the quadrajet the stock carb on these or an aftermarket??? I guess that is a good idea then, ill have to look online and see if some hot rodder would like to trade me for his plus some extra cash maybe. how hard is EFI to install on a carbed motor?? and how much $$$. Estimate
 
Well the dunes means climbing. You can spot the Holley and Edelbrock guys right away - once the climb starts they start blowing black smoke and slowing down. You have two choices for climbing - EFI and Quadrajet. Guess what, they both improve your gas mileage as well (OK, yes Holley and Edelbrock have "off road" carbs now...)

Do i get to keep my HEI?? or is that junk too.. lol. Sucks to find out all these parts i thought were sweet are junk lol.
 
How are the front tires wearing? I just got done putting together my front end d60 and initially I had 3/4" of toe and the thing was slow as **** and sucking the fuel down for a day or two b4 I adjusted it to just under 1/2".. I know its a shot in the dark but if the outside of one of your fronts is scolloping check your toe.... Most guys on here say 1/4" for a Blaz is right on...
 
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