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Help, 6 mpg!!! Why!!!!!?????

nobody said your parts are junk, just you need to build truck for what you want it to do.....i thought you wanted to get better mileage out of a "driver". you can build a good multi purpose truck. it just won't excel in any one category, they'll have to be compromises. you can daily drive a dune truck, it just won't be economical. does that motor have a cam and head work? what happens when you run it from 2500 to 5000 rpm?

if you want a good all around motor, get a complete EFI truck and build it then swap it all over, everything.....you can get decent mileage and pretty good power if it's all built right.......meaning gearing and tires too. the WHOLE truck needs to be built for what YOU want it to do. if the body and interior are good you're ahead of the game. this doesn't happen overnight unless you have money.....and a good amount, or skills, tools and time. i;m very happy i have an EFI truck, but i need to do a lot of work to it to get it where I want it.......and i haven't much money for parts right now.

if you're not honest with yourself on how you are really going to use this.....you'll never be happy. it's like guys i see putting S&S Super G carbs on stock 74" Harleys and then wonder why they run like ****t. there are guys here that can show you how to build a proper dune truck. i can show you how to build a pretty quick Harley :rolleyes:.
 
bad larry said:
How are the front tires wearing? I just got done putting together my front end d60 and initially I had 3/4" of toe and the thing was slow as **** and sucking the fuel down for a day or two b4 I adjusted it to just under 1/2".. I know its a shot in the dark but if the outside of one of your fronts is scolloping check your toe.... Most guys on here say 1/4" for a Blaz is right on...
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actually 3000 on these mudders and they are wearing perfectly flat. maybe more tow??
 
shovelbill80 said:
nobody said your parts are junk, just you need to build truck for what you want it to do.....i thought you wanted to get better mileage out of a "driver". you can build a good multi purpose truck. it just won't excel in any one category, they'll have to be compromises. you can daily drive a dune truck, it just won't be economical. does that motor have a cam and head work? what happens when you run it from 2500 to 5000 rpm?

if you want a good all around motor, get a complete EFI truck and build it then swap it all over, everything.....you can get decent mileage and pretty good power if it's all built right.......meaning gearing and tires too. the WHOLE truck needs to be built for what YOU want it to do. if the body and interior are good you're ahead of the game. this doesn't happen overnight unless you have money.....and a good amount, or skills, tools and time. i;m very happy i have an EFI truck, but i need to do a lot of work to it to get it where I want it.......and i haven't much money for parts right now.

if you're not honest with yourself on how you are really going to use this.....you'll never be happy. it's like guys i see putting S&S Super G carbs on stock 74" Harleys and then wonder why they run like ****t. there are guys here that can show you how to build a proper dune truck. i can show you how to build a pretty quick Harley :rolleyes:.
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Lol dont need a harley at the moment but ill let yah know if i want one lol. Yah i do want a daily driver but with the capabillities to be a dune truck. Not a monster dune truck but one that will make it up the hills good and still be a pretty decent daily driver.
 
Oh yah i cut off the cat today and replaced it with a turbo pack, didnt want a glass pack because of the sound but needed something straight with no offset and to give it some back pressure. Cat was decently clogged, hoped it would be worse but should help some.

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I know pretty janky weld job but hey just got my first welder for xmas and have only used it once before so oh well. Flux cores kinda a pain also. But i dont have enough projects to use my welder on at the moment to justify paying the $183 deposit plus $40 fill charge on an argon tank to do solid wire. Oh well, i got a brush and a hammer lol.

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This is my new setup. Got the Jawhorse (which is amazing) and welder for xmas. And felt the need to buy a pipe bender (works great).
 
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4X4HIGH said:
An engine will heat up quicker by driving the vehicle rather than trying to let it "warm up".
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As long as you tell me that you've lived a significant portion of your life in a region that regularly sees negative temperatures, I'm going to be polite and ignore this statement.
 
Deuling said:
Lol dont need a harley at the moment but ill let yah know if i want one lol. Yah i do want a daily driver but with the capabillities to be a dune truck. Not a monster dune truck but one that will make it up the hills good and still be a pretty decent daily driver.
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i would think your truck would want to be light, powerful with high floatation tires, but i don't know anything about dune trucks so i'll just sit back and watch.
 
It was -16 when I turned the key this morning. It hit better than 30 below on a couple of spots in my drive. Don't tell me to not let a vehicle idle for a bit when I have to wear gloves to keep my hands on the wheel without numbness or pain setting in.
 
mikey_d05 said:
As long as you tell me that you've lived a significant portion of your life in a region that regularly sees negative temperatures, I'm going to be polite and ignore this statement.
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Lol yah i live in Michigan, its 2 degrees outside now so lol.
 
mikey_d05 said:
It was -16 when I turned the key this morning. It hit better than 30 below on a couple of spots in my drive. Don't tell me to not let a vehicle idle for a bit when I have to wear gloves to keep my hands on the wheel without numbness or pain setting in.
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Yes, finally someone who understands lol.
 
mikey_d05 said:
As long as you tell me that you've lived a significant portion of your life in a region that regularly sees negative temperatures, I'm going to be polite and ignore this statement.
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I have never lived in cold climate weather BUT I still stand with my statement. An engine produces heat and when it is under a load it produces heat MUCH faster than sitting at an idle regardless if it's a high idle even. I'm sure it is nice to let your vehicle sit at an idle to warm up so you can get in and drive away and blow your heater and keep you happy but i'm just stating a fact, you can take it or leave it.
 
shovelbill80 said:
i would think your truck would want to be light, powerful with high floatation tires, but i don't know anything about dune trucks so i'll just sit back and watch.
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Yah basically you have it right. All you need in the sand is to drop your tire psi to about 12, then you glide on top of it all day long lol. Otherwise you just sink in. Its awesome lol. But alot more power is needed to turn those "flat" tires lol
 
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4X4HIGH said:
I have never lived in cold climate weather BUT I still stand with my statement. An engine produces heat and when it is under a load it produces heat MUCH faster than sitting at an idle regardless if it's a high idle even. I'm sure it is nice to let your vehicle sit at an idle to warm up so you can get in and drive away and blow your heater and keep you happy but i'm just stating a fact, you can take it or leave it.
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I agree with this- the engine will in fact warm up faster that way. However, the rest of the rig may not quite be ready to leave the driveway. Also, for me still running a carb, I at least like to warm it up to where it will kick down off the choke cam. even still, if its not up to operating temp, it might sputter a bit off the line untill she's warmed up.
 
COCHEV said:
I agree with this- the engine will in fact warm up faster that way. However, the rest of the rig may not quite be ready to leave the driveway. Also, for me still running a carb, I at least like to warm it up to where it will kick down off the choke cam. even still, if its not up to operating temp, it might sputter a bit off the line untill she's warmed up.
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yuppers, my theory is that when the oil is 2 degrees its as thick as caramel, you think carmel would lube an engine well?? Im pretty sure it warms up faster (in the cold) because their is no oil lubing the cylinder walls, thus creating alot of friction that yes will warm it up faster, but also is like running your engine with a film of oil at running rpms, i think the friction would be much less idling at say 500 rpms, rather than jumping up to 1500- whatever really quickly, so yes jumping in and driving will warm up quicker, but would you like that your trucks warmer quicker and start it and drive and f*** up your engine, or wait 5 min and let the oil get nice and thin to properly lube the engine... My thoughts
 
4X4HIGH said:
I have never lived in cold climate weather BUT I still stand with my statement. An engine produces heat and when it is under a load it produces heat MUCH faster than sitting at an idle regardless if it's a high idle even. I'm sure it is nice to let your vehicle sit at an idle to warm up so you can get in and drive away and blow your heater and keep you happy but i'm just stating a fact, you can take it or leave it.
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When it gets below zero, you'll sacrifice time and fuel for a little comfort. It was -20 with windchill the other day and colder than that in static air temp this morning. I'm a big fella, I was born and raised in these temps, and I only spent as much time outside as I absolutely HAD to.

After 20 minutes of idling this morning, my vehicle was at temp but the heater core wasn't capable of putting enough heat into the incoming air to melt the ice off the windshield in that time frame. Seriously, 180 degree fluid only being able to get air to ~50 degrees. It gets COLD in some parts of the country.

Deuling said:
Yes, finally someone who understands lol.
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Yup. My big block will start in these temps, but I'm not going to look at the oil pressure gauge to verify and immediately haul on down the road. Try to shift an SM465 for the first 10 minutes in sub-zero temps and let me know how it goes.

COCHEV said:
I agree with this- the engine will in fact warm up faster that way. However, the rest of the rig may not quite be ready to leave the driveway. Also, for me still running a carb, I at least like to warm it up to where it will kick down off the choke cam. even still, if its not up to operating temp, it might sputter a bit off the line untill she's warmed up.
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Another issue with not letting a vehicle warm up in extreme cold. Until the choke comes off, she's not a happy girl. Drive-ability can bring the suck when it's nippy out if you don't let a vehicle idle for a bit.
 
4X4HIGH said:
I have never lived in cold climate weather BUT I still stand with my statement. An engine produces heat and when it is under a load it produces heat MUCH faster than sitting at an idle regardless if it's a high idle even. I'm sure it is nice to let your vehicle sit at an idle to warm up so you can get in and drive away and blow your heater and keep you happy but i'm just stating a fact, you can take it or leave it.
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Scott, it's time to give this a rest. We all know that an engine warms faster when you drive. Who is arguing that? Much more basic than the mechanics of an engine is the fact that when you can't see you can't drive. Breath freezing to the inside of the windshield, moisture frosting to the outside.... Heck, I've seen a manual transmission at -30F that could not be put in gear. A block heater and some electric heaters on the dash speed things up, but you're still not able to start it and go. The only solution is heated garage.
 
Blue85 said:
Scott, it's time to give this a rest. We all know that an engine warms faster when you drive. Who is arguing that? Much more basic than the mechanics of an engine is the fact that when you can't see you can't drive. Breath freezing to the inside of the windshield, moisture frosting to the outside.... Heck, I've seen a manual transmission at -30F that could not be put in gear. A block heater and some electric heaters on the dash speed things up, but you're still not able to start it and go. The only solution is heated garage.
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I cut the cat out and put in a turbo pack last night. You see my junk weld job lol.
 
here's a little side semi different look at warming engines up... in my biz, boats... you can have very serious issues not letting a carbed motor warm up... in a car, take off when it's cold, drive down the street, it stalls, fock, no big, pull over, restart it...

in a boat? haha.... your now drifting at the mercy of wind and current smashing into other boats and rocks..

EFI stuff? we still let em warm up here and there, but in a pinch, light her off and go.. it's EFI, they don't stall..
 
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