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Help, 6 mpg!!! Why!!!!!?????

imiceman44 said:
If you have the G80 it will spin like an open diff untill it reaches about 15mph and then the governor kicks in and both turn same direction.
I had one and it happened when I was trying to turn the tires and it did it and freaked me out.
I had a limited slip in an older K5 and it's the clutch type, and it turned both same direction, and I couldn't turn one with the other on the ground.
I still have that axle, but wouldn't want it on a truck, maybe on a car.
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G80 is the code on the locking dif tag!!! is that good....??? lol
 
shady said:
maybe a gov loc:dunno: I've read about them here but dont know much about them. The limited slip in my monza would alow me to jack both tires up off the ground and I could still break all the lugs free without spinning the tires much when in park.


slow again^^
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Yah its the G80 thing on the tag so that must be the gov lock thing.
 
I bought a vacuum gauge today, which is really cool as it acts as a brake line bleader, and siphon pump... But anyways I checked the left vac port on the carb going to the distributor, (i put in a tee), and it was 18 HG when i revved it up, and basically 0 idling.... Is this good, Bad?? Instructions on the pump said 10-15, but didnt say anything about idling...
 
Deuling said:
I bought a vacuum gauge today, which is really cool as it acts as a brake line bleader, and siphon pump... But anyways I checked the left vac port on the carb going to the distributor, (i put in a tee), and it was 18 HG when i revved it up, and basically 0 idling.... Is this good, Bad?? Instructions on the pump said 10-15, but didnt say anything about idling...
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That one is ported vacuum and it is correct that it reads 0 at idle and vacuum as the throttle is opened.

Connect it to a manifold vacuum port and it should read 15-20 at idle. On the Edelbrock carb, the port on the right (looking at the carb) is manifold vacuum.
 
djtejas said:
That one is ported vacuum and it is correct that it reads 0 at idle and lower vacuum as the throttle is opened.

Connect it to a manifold vacuum port and it should read 15-20 at idle. On the Edelbrock carb, the port on the right (looking at the carb) is manifold vacuum.
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Would hooking the distributor to the manifold port be a good/bad thing?
 
There is the ongoing argument about which port to use for the vacuum advance...

Personally, I use manifold vacuum...

If you want to know the reasons for ported vs non-ported, you should just start another thread...there is always debate over this.
 
I said screw it and ordered a carb rebuild kit and float kit for $50. I saw a puddle of gas on the inside of the carb in the back left corner, not moving or being sucked anywhere, just sitting.... lol. I also ordered a manual with step by step instructions by Larry Shepard for dummies like me lol. $10.
 
Ok guys after doin a whole bunch of random fixes, Vac lines, Timing, tightened exaust manifolds, and exhaust flanges, i have upped my city to about 8mpg. I have a carb rebuilt kit, just need to find a good sat to rebuild it. And the intake gaskets seem to be leakin a little, got some oily residue on the manifold, so after i fix those hopefully i could see 10 city and idk about highway. Still cant get 12v to the tranny to lock it up in overdrive. But i think after all the little things are fixed it will hopefully be doing really good. Got a lot more power with the vac/timing/exhaust fixes also. Cant wait to get it all fixed up and have it running like it should. Then i can finally start on the cosmetic things i want to do without feeling stupid haha
 
New intake gasket and the rebuild kit should get you close to your goal. I know when i rebuilt my quadrajet it made the biggest improvement i could imagine.
 
scottsdale86 said:
New intake gasket and the rebuild kit should get you close to your goal. I know when i rebuilt my quadrajet it made the biggest improvement i could imagine.
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Thats awesome. I cant wait. I got a twenty gal tank, so every MPG i get will get me another 20miles per tank. thats pretty sweet lol. I did all city this week and went from 6mpg to 8.18. So thats a little over 20 miles to the half tank. Sweet. Idk what im gonna do when i get my van out that gets 18 lol.
 
you've increased your fuel "efficiency" by 33%.....that's pretty dang good. keep working on the tranny issue. every truck i ever had till this one only got 8/9 in the city 14ish on the highway. my 305 (Q-jet) did 17/18 highway with 35's and 4.10's.

my TBI gets a whole 6 mpg as well....my cat is pretty beat so i'm going to do the converter to tailpipe. then a comprehensive tune up. clean and flow match the injectors after that (witchhunter). that's what i can do this winter. i'll be real happy with 8 in this friggin city. it'll never end though :rolleyes:

i know i sound like a broken record, but i still think that intake will be your biggest problem. you're doing the job man, good on you. :waytogo:
 
shovelbill80 said:
i know i sound like a broken record, but i still think that intake will be your biggest problem. you're doing the job man, good on you. :waytogo:
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Thanks man. Im gettin it lol. I got out of work today and thought, "Man those tires look small"........... Haha, could maybe be a possibility now that i feel it has the balls to turn some bigger tires lol.
 
shovelbill80 said:
my TBI gets a whole 6 mpg as well....my cat is pretty beat so i'm going to do the converter to tailpipe.
:waytogo:
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I cut mine off. That was the only thing on my exhaust lol no muffler, so i cut the stupid thing off and replaced it with a $25 turbo pack. Wellded one end and clamped the other. Sounds decent, alot lower
 
If you even suspect your intake gasket is leaking, I'd replace that next... Mine solved a lot of problems, such as no power, bad fuel economy, poor braking, slight loss of coolant, etc...
DON'T use the supplied rubber end gaskets!!! They just start leaking right away...
 
Something to try on your TC Lockup is look under the dash at the brake pedal switch/switches. If there are 2, a white one and a black one. Take the wiring connector off the white one and test one of the wires for 12v. There should only be 2 wires. If it has 12v then connect it back and without touching the brake test the other wire. If it has 12v then that clears that possible problem up. If it dont then it might be the problem i had on my 85 jimmy. Take it off and on one side of it you should be able to pop a cover and get to the inside. Make sure the contact points arent bent and maybe sand them down some. If you have a voltometer check it for continuity(spelling?) it should break the connection when you let off the plunger button thing and should make contact when you push it in all the way.

If you get it to making good contact put the cap back and connect it back up, test it again for 12v both sides. If its good then put it back on and make sure it is all the way against the brake and to were the button starts going out when you hit the brake. This fixed my lockup problem, good luck, we are both in the same shoes with 6-8 city gas mileage.
 
dabomb6608 said:
If you get it to making good contact put the cap back and connect it back up, test it again for 12v both sides. If its good then put it back on and make sure it is all the way against the brake and to were the button starts going out when you hit the brake. This fixed my lockup problem, good luck, we are both in the same shoes with 6-8 city gas mileage.
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Ok will do, watch they prolly arent even their at all lol.
 
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