It's a 468 (454 .030 over) full roller. I already have hydroboost, so I'm good on that front.
You guys need to help me compile a list of crap to order from summit so I only have to go up there once! Here's what I need so far:
-water pump/t-stat and waterneck...
stock type iron pump, reverse rotation for serp setup, angled thermo housing worked for my application, and 180* stat.
-hoses?
I used good brand (gates?) rubber hose for heater hoses
-distributor/wires/plugs (has marine plugs in it)
check w/ head manufacturer for plug usage....I used Taylor 135* wires which clear the headers really well
-flywheel (gonna need a recommendation here because it's internally balanced)
I believe you can use a neutral balance flywheel, as the present assy is probably already balanced w/ the existing flywheel in the engine video. Call a competent machine shop to be sure.
-Headers
I used L&L, but I don't think they will work for your chassis??? long tubes=more torque, but clearance has to be considered as well.
-oil pan/pump/pickup
I used stock 6 qt pan, fit my needs well, a Melling hp pump is the only oil system change I added, Chevy's have a pretty good oil system stock.
-valve covers (the ones that came with it were clearanced with a hammer to fit in the boat)
I like cast alum, for superior sealing. go with what fits your truck...watch Ebay I picked up my Comp Cams for 100$ /pr.
-Fuel pump
If your thinking FI in the future might as well plan on that right now into your fuel system...although if your running a carb for now, you may have to change to another pump for a FI unit needs. Run a Holley blue w/ regulator for a carbd app.
-timing light (don't have one, in Germany or here)
I have an old Craftsman light I've had forever....if you have a timing tape on the balancer, go with a basic clamp on wire type light, if not get a decent dial back light so you can see what your advance curve and total advance it doing.
Anyone know what kind of timing I should start with on this thing?
Alot of opinions for this, but I would shoot for 12-14 base at idle, I wouldn't even worry about vac advance on this engine....shoot for a relatively modest advance curve to bring it up to 32* by 3000 rpm and total no more than 34*....you will have to see what your vehicle and engine combo like when you get it going, but those should be safe numbers to start with, you may be able to get up to 36-38 if that engine likes it.
I'm going to keep the carb now and see how it does. If I choose to go EFI in the future it'll be a bolt on swap like the FAST system. Do I need a larger fuel line? My buddy thinks I'll be fine, but I figured I'd ask. I'm planning to NOT do a fuel cell for now just to save some coin at the moment. I wouldn't feel so bad about it except I haven't sold any of my small block stuff yet and would like to hold off on unnecessary spending until that stuff is gone.
A healthy BBC like this could use a 1/2" id line for higher rpm stuff....carbed engines tend to need bigger feed line than a FI engine because of pressure from the pump. Drag racers use up to -10 for a feed line on a stout BBC, I would think you'll be ok with -8 unless you run sustained high rpm. Keep in mind the future of EFI...I'm using my old 1/2 line to feed front to back, and adapting to it at each end for the EFI.
Also, I need accessories for the front of it and was wondering if the TPI serp setup will work with a big block? I doubt it but I thought I might ask. If not I'll probably try to source some on craigslist. If that doesn't work I'll just get brackets from scummit and change out the pulley on my PS pump and rock v-belts. I'm not dropping the coin for a march serp setup. Unless of course I find one on summit's clearance racks...
I'm beyond giddy. Probably won't be able to sleep tonight
Been wondering all day what the weak link in my drivetrain is now??? I guess I'll find out soon enough
Nobody has mentioned the work you may need to do on the firewall to clear the distributor and valve covers.
