"HOJ" -- The Rebuild (72 GMC Jimmy)

[dmcx72]

With a good quality spot-weld cutting bit and about 1 hour's work you could remove the dual-headlight setup from the original core support and move it over to the new repo core support (of course you'll also need to remove the single headlight basket from the new part)...

I doubt you'd be able to do all the necessary rust repair on the original core support in less time, and you're going to be out the shipping and re-stocking fees for the repro part if you send it back too. I'd make an attempt to use it if it were my project....

lightly sand around the mounting flanges of those headlamp buckets and locate all the "dimpled" spots where the factory spotwelds are. Cut them carefully and those old buckets will lift right off!!!

Guess I'll give it a go. Any chance you've got a link or some place I could get instruction on using one of those bits?

Just answered my own question:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PfY3tbRJ9qU&NR=1&feature=fvwp

And I don't have a spot welder either ... I'm starting to think body shop. Too bad I'm such a noob and in a hurry to get it together before I move from Louisiana to California (in 1 month!)

 

[Greg72]

Eastwood sells spot weld cutters, and I'm sure there are several other online sources as well.

The process is a lot of "feel"... you drill down and sometimes you can feel the resistance change as you cut through the top layer of metal. That's when you stop drilling.

 

[dmcx72]

I used a bell housing I bought from a member on here (don't remember who though...) and then the hydraulics were all from the local oreilly's.

Powertorque master cylinder: p/n CM1230 $30
Powertorque slave cylinder: Part # : CS2222 $20


The hoses I'm finding online don't look right, but I'm sure if you just ask at the counter they'll be able to get it right for you. They're all from a 93 K2500. The whole setup cost me less than $100 including the hydro bell housing. If you need anything else let me know.

Looks like I can do this without a bell-housing change using the GM Hydraulic Clutch Throwout Bearing from Speedway.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/GM-Stock-Clutch-Hydraulic-Throwout-Bearing,1945.html

Fairly good explanation with pictures here:
http://www.hotrodhotline.com/md/html/clutch_installing_hydraulic_cl.php

Then it's just a matter of setting up the pedal. Any ideas on that?

 

[dmcx72]

Clutch Pedal to Master Cylinder

OK. This looks doable!

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=359200&page=9

POST# 209

This is gonna drive me batty

 

[ARAMP1]

Dude, you joined in 2004 and you're just now getting around to work on it!?! That's crazy! It's looking good though. Can't wait to see more pictures and progress.

 

[dmcx72]

Dude, you joined in 2004 and you're just now getting around to work on it!?! That's crazy! It's looking good though. Can't wait to see more pictures and progress.

You sound like my wife ... honey? Is that you?

Better late than never, eh? Should have some amazing progress in the next 3 weeks. As in ... it's gonna be driving by Oct 21st. Sometimes a little deadline can really help motivate!

 

[ARAMP1]

You sound like my wife ... honey? Is that you?

LOL.

Better late than never, eh? Should have some amazing progress in the next 3 weeks. As in ... it's gonna be driving by Oct 21st. Sometimes a little deadline can really help motivate!

True. I have no room to talk though. I've taken some long breaks too. Anyway, glad to see you got back on it and I can't wait to see more.

 

[dmcx72]

Dana 60 Brake Calipers?

Springs came in today!!!

Anybody got advice on brake calipers for the Dana 60 front?

 

[Happydad36]

??

Where did you go??? Hello??? Where in CA did you move to?

 

[dmcx72]

Finally getting back into it

Sacramento area (Roseville). Pretty much done almost nothing for 2.5 years. Getting back on the wagon. Pics soon.

 

[Smokinthehippies]

Sacramento area (Roseville). Pretty much done almost nothing for 2.5 years. Getting back on the wagon. Pics soon.

Whoa!!



Here I am reading the thread looking to see how awesome this thing turns out, and it went from drivable in a few weeks to no word for a few years!!!

Glad your back!

 

[dmcx72]

Alternator

Yeah ... 4 deployments in the last 3 years not including finishing a master's degree kinda killed my free time. But anyhow ... onto build discussion.

I put a serpentine conversion kit on the motor and it's got a 1-wire (internally regulated alternator - Tuff Stuff 7140. I know this has been discussed at length in other forums, but I'm having a hard time nailing two things down.

1 - Is the brown wire that goes from the old alternator (not original) to the firewall is for an idiot light or for exciting the old, non-self-excited alternator? I'm pretty sure it's for exciting the old alternator, because the 72 Jimmy doesn't have an idiot light, right? Because it has a battery guage (ammeter) i thought there would be no idiot light.

2 - The new alternator has an option for hooking up a warning light... from the install instructions:

"Note that a 1-wire alternator does NOT permit the use of a charge
warning (idiot) light. Most hot rodders and muscle car enthusiasts
prefer the use of a volt meter or ammeter to monitor charging.
However, certain Tuff Stuff alternators like the 7127, 7139 and
7140 series have terminals that may be used for a warning light.
To wire a warning light using one of these alternators, simply
remove the terminal plug cover and connect the R (Left terminal,
looking from the back of the alternator) to the warning light wire."

So what is that port on the new alternator for? Is it just for hooking up an idiot light or would it remote sense voltage somehow?

Best as I can tell, I don't need the brown wire anymore. What I'm wondering still is will the dash battery gauge work properly?

 

[dmcx72]

One Wire

Emailed tuff-stuff ...

Short answer - the "one-wire" alternators from tuff-stuff don't support remote voltage sensing. The extra wire is purely for an idiot (generator/alternatory) warning light.

As to whether the battery gauge will work or not, I'm still not positive on that answer.

 

[skunked]

I'm over in Lincoln and work in Rocklin if you ever need a hand.

Welcome to the area

 

[82355]

A voltmeter doesn't sense the voltage at the alternator specifically. It just measures the system voltage. You probably have an ammeter though, not?

Martin

 

[dmcx72]

I'm over in Lincoln and work in Rocklin if you ever need a hand.

Welcome to the area

Thanks, man. It's bits and pieces right now. The short list looks something like:

1) finish fan wiring
2) re-adjust clutch/master cyl linkage for appropriate throw
3) replace rear pinion yoke and setup flanges at rear axle and t-case for new rear driveline

 

[dmcx72]

Fans

Got the radiator from RnD Fabrication...Sparky included a blank piece of aluminum so I could make an adapter/shroud for the flex-a-lites I already had. Here's how it turned out. Cut was with handheld jigsaw so not perfect, but I think it'll work.

Front Side

Back Side

Installed

 

[dmcx72]

Motor Running

Also, this was before the fan set up, but here's from the first day I cranked the motor. Second video actually because I was so excited first time I forgot to hit record!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DMutQkKTRTY

 

[dmcx72]

A voltmeter doesn't sense the voltage at the alternator specifically. It just measures the system voltage. You probably have an ammeter though, not?

Martin

Yeah - it's an ammeter. I don't think it'll matter in the end since I was planning on installing some updated gauges like Dakota digital or the like. I'll probably just set up a voltmeter for that. I dunno yet.

 

[skunked]

Any updates?