CK5
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Horton, driveshaft opinions wanted

:haha::haha::haha::haha::haha:

Well its a bronco dos, so yah no problem. For a Ford its a pretty sweet ride and will soon be able to hang with just about anything out there.

I can't find a pic, Jon post a pic of the bdos. Dana 30 front 3 link, 4.0 v-6 5 speed, soon to have a doubler 8.8" rear on worn out 33s for now but I think Jon has less than a grand into it right now, and its well on its way

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Nice! I will be coming up in spring with my rig so we can all go

Hells yes!

I don't see why more people don't build bronco 2s I mean its just like building a Jeep, you pretty much replace the entire drivetrain completely change the suspension and you have an awesome rig!
 
I don't see why more people don't build bronco 2s I mean its just like building a Jeep, you pretty much replace the entire drivetrain completely change the suspension and you have an awesome rig!

:haha::haha::haha: Ill have to tell all my jeep friends about this.

They all made jokes saying I should have just got a jeep when I cut up my truck body. I told them it was easier for me to cut the body off my truck then to swap the whole drivetrain out in a jeep.
 
Hells yes!

I don't see why more people don't build bronco 2s I mean its just like building a Jeep, you pretty much replace the entire drivetrain completely change the suspension and you have an awesome rig!


yeah cuz horton has every single drivetrain peice it came with from the factory... wait. lol yeah it was really cheap to build with bolt in parts upgrades, the engine trans and tcase are from and explorer and required no modification. the axle is a d30 out of a newer jeep probably a tj and it was by far the hardest part of the build, and its going away hopefully sooner than later. Like Eric said I have next to nothing in the build and it is pretty capable. Chaddy Eric tells me you have a buggy your building? we have an obstacle at our local wheeling area for you then, I think one buggy has made it and they were stacking rocks for quite a while and may have even had a winch on them. yeah you should def come wheel with us this spring.
 
okay so wiring the gauges today, plan on using as much of the factory wiring as I can.

On the plug that goes into the cluster, what wires go to the volt meter and the fuel gauge?

Oil and water are both mechanical, best place to put those?
 
I tied his rear brake lights directly into the brake switch on his old wiring, there was no way he would ever have working turn signals that way... The column wiring is not working correctly, has problems with the contacts in the switch.

More than likely, replacing the turn signal switch will make everything work 100% again with the new wiring he installed.


Russ was right replaced the turn signal switch and everything works. So after I get the gauges wired up done with wiring:D:D:D:D
 
Water in the top of the intake or side of the head

Oil I think you only have one choice on yours above the oil filter, the back of the intake is your pressure shut off for your computer or might be gauge too you can tie into that.
 
Eric has a horrible fear of wiring diagrams, just petrifies him, plus he is brain damaged
 
Voltmeter = pnk/blk for + and blk/wht for -
Oil Pressure = above the oil filter, remove square pipe plug
Water Temp = In the head is best
Fuel = pnk/blk for + blk/wht for - and tan for level (this wire may have changed colors in the later years to either gray or purple...)
 
So can't find anywhere to put my coolant temp sensor it won't seal in the heads, I don't know if it is just the way the auto gage gauges work but I can't just thread the sender into the head hole, it won't seal up.

Where else can I put it?

Also which oil pressure sender goes to the computer, I know I know trace the wires, if you had my headache you would just prefer to ask.

Sorry feel like everything is going wrong at the last minute.

The 2 least important gauges I have work ( fuel level, and volt meter).

Lost a freaking brake part, don't wanna fill it up with coolant until I get the sender installed, ugh not alot went right tonight.

I didn't have that much to do to be ready to rock and roll but it was a bad night.

Also had the lights working on the gauges but now no workie, fuse is fine, must have pulled a wire out:1zhelp:

On the bright side it runs fine, I could fill it with coolant and be done with it just really like to have the gauge because of the radiator move.

That brake part is killing me though, have no clue where it went even though we put everything in a little baggie, its just not there. Wasted an hour looking for that stupid thing.

FML why do I always do this.
 
Can't say on the oil sending unit, I have seen engines that had one by the filter that was the gauge and the second was by the distributor which fed the computer. But, I am not certain it is that way on all GM engines.

Coolant, might be able to go into the neck by the thermostat, if there is an opening. Not sure why it won't seal in the head, that doesn't make much sense.

Good luck, I am sure you will be ready to go.
 
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Yup. I don't remember but I had to use an adapter to get mine to fit. It was a NPT fitting though
 
It needs a bigger yet smaller adapter to thread into. The adapter threads into the head then the temp sender goes into that. I have a couple of them here, of course if it comes to that.

The sender for the oil pressure for the computer should be in the back of the intake. I do not think that motor has any other oil senders in it. One of the motors I have has the split sensor on the back of the intake computer and gauge and your welcome to that too if you need it.

Its soposto be in the 40's and sunny on Saturday so fixing either of them out side wont be an issue.
 
Eric if your setup is like mine then the sender that goes to the computer goes to the gauge as well. I drilled and tapped the other side of the stock fitting to run a mechanical gauge as well.
 
What do u mean it doesnt seal? Like its not a tapered pipe thread? And ive heard to be careful about alot of tape on the threads of those not allowing the sensor to ground to the block. Couldnt it go in the intake as well up front on the water passage? And my oil is tied in with a tee on the back of the intake, the other outlet on the tee is the low pressure unit. Id run it on the side like keith suggested. Much easier to acces. Even with my skinny hands it was a pain to tighten the fitting on the back unless you take the dizzy out. Edit: i removed the low pressure sensor and put the mechanical pressure and electric one on the tee. I check gauges religiously so im not worried about needing that sensor.
 

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