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How to link the rear of a K5

I think I'm going to try this with tractor links and then if all goes well I'll getr some heims, since I can't find any leaf springs and this is better anyways

The calculator won't for me because I don't have excel.

It seems like I need one a little to the outside and one on the inside and up a little.

Is it that important to run the numbers? I can always make the mounts adjustable up and down

If you just attach the links where they are most convenient the suspension is going to be terrible. Much, much worse than it would have been with leaves.

So yes, you really do need to either do calcs by hand or in the calculator in excel.
 
It is common pratice to build some adjustment/multiple holes into the upper links to adjust anti squat.

Dont get me wrong here, I don't mean to knock, but the top of the trans bell housing is just a guess for center of gravity so all calculation are not accurate anyway. Correct me if I wrong here, but that is considered a general "rule of thumb" and not always accurate center of gravity location.

That being said, good tech write up and enjoyed the thread. Hope to one day link up my rear once I save up for coilovers.

I also had axle wrap as bad as you and even twisted tubes and bent leaf springs........until I build a traction bar, now it climbs like a bear.
 
Dont get me wrong here, I don't mean to knock, but the top of the trans bell housing is just a guess for center of gravity so all calculation are not accurate anyway. Correct me if I wrong here, but that is considered a general "rule of thumb" and not always accurate center of gravity location.

Totally agreed, but how bad of an assumption is the top bellhousing bolt? If that assumption is off by +/- 2" on my truck the anti-squat changes between 76% and 86%, both pretty reasonable and I really doubt the COG assumption is off by more than 2".

If you just weld 4 links under the truck you might end up with 20% AS and you might end up with 250% AS and both of those will perform horribly.
 
Well, the proof is in the puddin as they say.

Your assumptions seem to be "in the ball park" and you have proven that your set up is functional..............ass kicking if you will.

It always has cracked me up. I think of the link calc. as a "guide". Your links happen to be located in a fantastic location, no low hanging link brackets.
 
Well, the proof is in the puddin as they say.

Your assumptions seem to be "in the ball park" and you have proven that your set up is functional..............ass kicking if you will.


Thanks Aaron, and as I've said before I'm very happy with my rear link setup.


It always has cracked me up. I think of the link calc. as a "guide"

The 4 link calculator is only a guide but it will get you close. Its a relatively quick, easy, reliable way to run the numbers and get you close even if the assumptions end up a little off.


Basically, you're trying to avoid building a 4 link like this one.
 
Thanks Aaron, and as I've said before I'm very happy with my rear link setup.




The 4 link calculator is only a guide but it will get you close. Its a relatively quick, easy, reliable way to run the numbers and get you close even if the assumptions end up a little off.


Basically, you're trying to avoid building a 4 link like this one.



Wow! That is by far the craziest attempt at a link suspension I have ever laid eyes on!!!!!
 
Basically, you're trying to avoid building a 4 link like this one.

What you don't like my new 4 link.:mad:

With the upgraded IFS parts in the front and a ARB locker in the rear I bet mine is every bit as good as those other guys that competed in that race with their IFS front buggies. Mine will just cost less than half of their over inflated highly sponsored payed for by someone elses rigs.:mad::mad::mad::mad:

I bet those guys couldn't even work on those things, they probably have to have there shop guys do it.:mad:
 
What you don't like my new 4 link.:mad:

With the upgraded IFS parts in the front and a ARB locker in the rear I bet mine is every bit as good as those other guys that competed in that race with their IFS front buggies. Mine will just cost less than half of their over inflated highly sponsored payed for by someone elses rigs.:mad::mad::mad::mad:

I bet those guys couldn't even work on those things, they probably have to have there shop guys do it.:mad:


Didn't mean to hurt your feelings Brandon :haha:
 
If you just attach the links where they are most convenient the suspension is going to be terrible. Much, much worse than it would have been with leaves.

So yes, you really do need to either do calcs by hand or in the calculator in excel.

It wouldn't be where it's convenient, it would be where almost every chevy 4 link is mounted, like this

I bet you could get it close enough.

I found some leafs today finally anyways though so I'll just do a traction bar now

This is a three link but the upper mounts are pretty much in the same spot as yours

100_3282.jpg
 
It wouldn't be where it's convenient, it would be where almost every chevy 4 link is mounted, like this

I bet you could get it close enough.

I found some leafs today finally anyways though so I'll just do a traction bar now

This is a three link but the upper mounts are pretty much in the same spot as yours

100_3282.jpg

You still have to run the numbers. I have done enough 4 links and three links to know that you run the numbers, measure where it's easy to mount the links and then run those numbers and tweak into harder mounting points from there.

The picture shows a 4 link setup. Even though the upper link comes to one joint on the axle there are still four mounting positions on the chassis. I would also lay odds on there not being enough triangulation in that setup to hold the rear end under the truck.

Then you get into axle steer and that starts a whole new setup and leads to further issues and problems with link length, and mounting points.

Four linking an existing chassis with constraints is not easy and it always ends up being the best of what you can really do, not what the math says you need to do.
 
So I know its not a Chevy, but its linked. These are some shots of my old Grand Cherokee. It was a lot of work but insanely worth it! The toughest part was reinforcing the unibody and doing all the tubework. The upper links attached under the rear seats. I had some pics of the finished work, but the computer went crazy and ate them.

Picture 036.jpg

Picture 022.jpg

Picture 023.jpg

Picture 034.jpg

Picture 029.jpg
 
Here are some more shots. I am planning on doing this to my new 74 K5 I just got on monday

Picture 076.jpg

Picture 077.jpg

Picture 082.jpg

Picture 137.jpg

Picture 138.jpg
 
It wouldn't be where it's convenient, it would be where almost every chevy 4 link is mounted, like this

I bet you could get it close enough.

Just looking at it and mounting everything up, no you won't get it close enough.

It won't explode and take out the neighborhood but it won't hook up like it should either.

Compared to the time it takes to fabricate all this stuff, the design/calculation part is pretty quick and easy.


And as for "that's how most Chevy 4 links are setup", I'm not sure I buy that, at least most successful 4 links aren't setup like that. Having uppers and lowers both pointing up like that will make the truck unstable when on its side. Also, that suspension has VERY little anti-squat.


Like I said, its not that hard to do the calcs before you weld everything under the truck.
 
do you have a cv rear d-shaft? it appears that you just pointed the rear end at the tc output. if you dont have a cv and it is indeed pointed, do you experience any vibes?
 
do you have a cv rear d-shaft? it appears that you just pointed the rear end at the tc output. if you dont have a cv and it is indeed pointed, do you experience any vibes?

Nope and no I've never felt any vibes but its a trailer queen so it doesn't see high speed too often. Also, it's low enough that there isn't much angle on either driveshaft.
 
cool, thank you sir! i am still in the thinking stages of my 4 link but I'm worried about my driveshaft being the first to hit on rocks instead of my lower links.:crazy:
 
cool, thank you sir! i am still in the thinking stages of my 4 link but I'm worried about my driveshaft being the first to hit on rocks instead of my lower links.:crazy:

Having the links lower than the driveshaft can help protect the shaft sometimes, but rocks often don't really care where you put your links. Rocks can always catch the driveshaft.

So really you can deal with it, build shafts that will take it or point the pinion up more (which gets the driveshaft higher up).


Getting your links low enough (or your driveshaft up high enough) won't help this a whole lot:

P1010103.jpg
 
I think I'm going to try this with tractor links and then if all goes well I'll getr some heims, since I can't find any leaf springs and this is better anyways

The calculator won't for me because I don't have excel.

It seems like I need one a little to the outside and one on the inside and up a little.

Is it that important to run the numbers? I can always make the mounts adjustable up and down

Anyone thinking about being an idiot like I was don't do it

Download open office

The calc seems complicated at first glance but it is really simple after about 5 minutes of toying with it.
 
Anyone thinking about being an idiot like I was don't do it

Download open office

The calc seems complicated at first glance but it is really simple after about 5 minutes of toying with it.


I think I missed it somewhere. is there a link to the actual Calculations/spreadsheet program used to make this all happen?
 

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