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How to remove trim, molding, and glass on a Suburban? Prepping for paint.

ask em about the paint...

please just don't use newspaper.... it's ok for non catalyzed paints, but anything with a hardener will give you a RUDE awakening...

need any masking tips, holla... I masked 20+ a week in the collision shop, ain't nothing I don't know about masking... :haha:
 
y5mgisi said:
How do you remove the barn door glass? It doesn't have the lock strips like the windshield and quarter glass has.
Click to expand...

I have never opened this thread for some reason, but I thought of it today as I was putting a new right rear barn glass in my 1989 GMC V10 Suburban.

The one I was taking out was already broken, here is the easiest way to get out a broken one.

IMG_20130320_131536_zps102cee60.jpg


IMG_20130320_131527_zpsdc6a78c1.jpg


Then just push.

Martin
 
Oh! ryoken, While i have you here, does orange peel occure in all the layers? Primer/paint/clear? Or does it not in some layers? I ask because im considering asking them to do a cut and buff, or whatever is required to minimize orange peel. If i had it my way, i would have NO orange peel. But if thats going to be an outlandish request/ amount of money. I will just deal with it. I mostly want to know i guess if sanding the color coat would be required, or if a "cut and buff" of the completed truck (just the clear) would eliminate the orange peel.
 
y5mgisi said:
Oh! ryoken, While i have you here, does orange peel occure in all the layers? Primer/paint/clear? Or does it not in some layers? I ask because im considering asking them to do a cut and buff, or whatever is required to minimize orange peel. If i had it my way, i would have NO orange peel. But if thats going to be an outlandish request/ amount of money. I will just deal with it. I mostly want to know i guess if sanding the color coat would be required, or if a "cut and buff" of the completed truck (just the clear) would eliminate the orange peel.
Click to expand...


if the primer is dead flat prior to paint, which it should have been, but isn't always with lazy bodymen, you should have very, very little orange peel thru the base.. the stuff is super piss thin and lays out smoother than laquer.... it can be color sanded, but you still have to put a couple color coats back over the top. so the only time I ever color sand the actual base is if there's an issue.. such as sandscratches, etc..

now, the majority of all orange peel is in the clear... many things affect that, mostly thicker viscosity material.... spray technique, pressure, etc can also affect it, but it's mostly viscosity...

the way to lessen OP is thinner clear with more coats generally... also, on all my higher end, showy paint work I do, ya put a TON of clear on.. it gives you plenty to wetsand to make it a sheet of glass...

my blue Chevelle had 8 coats of clear, wetsanded to glass...

normal, 2, 3 coat clear jobs, sander/buffer beware.. I ALWAYS wanted to be the one colorsanding my paint work at the shop.. it's just safer, you squirted it, you have a feel for how much is on it..

most collision shops will just give it a spot sand for dust spots and maybe some heavier peel, than buff.. just what they need to do to make it look presentable and out the door.. generally they aren't gonna go in and sand it balls flat...
 
it might be cheaper just to pay them a buck fifty to do the jambs...paint and clear is EXPENSIVE...so is the equipment...and it may not turn out like you expect...just do the math and consider....that is unless you are just curious and want to learn to do it...
just remember...I am on my second time around on a lot of stuff...learning to paint ain't easy and it sure isn't cheap.

I did say "never ever give up"....but there is a point where you cut your losses...:doah:
 
Interesting stuff. Thanks for the info! Well, maybe i just wont worry about it. Or i'll at least ask them about it. Wish i could just do my own dern paint work...
 
Now I went through and read the whole thing.

You should throw on a set of white steel wheels and hub caps.......

Martin
 
Ha! Your funny! That would look REALLY really good. But, it will have the aluminum wheels on it for life. My dad bought those wheels less than a month after i bought the truck in 89.
 
Don't do the jambs yourself man.

You've gone this far to have it all done professionally, let them do it. I never encourage credit card debt, so i'll leave the finances to you. But, i would for sure let them do the jambs. It'll all be done at once, you won't have the headache of trying to do it.

Truthfully, i think it would have been easier to learn on other parts of the body than the jambs.

Don't get into it.
 
Doesnt seem like it would be that bad. We'll see. I have a little while to decide. Seems like it would be easiest because its not a big flat panel. Part two of having them do the jams is talking the wife into thinking its a good idea...
 
jambs are an easy peezy, hard to screw up job.. just a bit time consuming... but whatever...
 
The only thing i could see as the hard part, is running. I bet it would be easy to pile the paint on in an area where you are trying to shoot nooks and crannys. Again, we'll see. I dont think it would break tye bank for me to do it. My compressor will do it, cheap gun, only a quart of paint would be needed.
 
exactly... you can get a tough up gun for $25... don't worry about runs, be careful and learn thru your initial coats how heavy you can go... the longer flash time you give between coats helps with any run issues too... but keep in mind, it's base/clear.. so you need 3 components minimum, usually 4, cost-wise..
 
eh...don't listen to him...what does he know :haha:
 
Most people say he is some chump that collects old skate boards. Talks about skating glory days and his paint work to sound cool. ;)
 
alright, I'll come clean, this was my last skate session...













































































639634928_6ed9c14896.jpg



and my recent paint work/build....


pz0fy.jpg






it's a drink, not milk dammit! :woot:
 
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