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Howdiymobile....

Tried to get somewhat fancy on the sway bar braces

I love the way it feels now, much more stable

And the bilsteins are supposed to be like that I'm pretty sure, they are 10" travel, im hoping the have enough travel

I need to get limit straps, the drive shaft is going to bust a u joint if the rear enough drops 5"

I think thats all, I also welded bolts on top of my shock mounts to mount my brake lines so they weren't loose anymore

Edit: tires are rubbing up front, time to cut out more
 
I've got a driveshaft

I think I'm going to atke the front clip off and mount the radiator to the frame and just use the body panels as skins, my tires are rubbing the inner fenders and the edges are cutting my tires and its pissing me off

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Yeah it's 4 of them, I think I might tig on some brackets to make them bolt on easier
 
Yeah, It's two 21" and two 31" straps

I only need one strap up front to limit the drop, my driveshaft yoke is touching a little bit at full droop, so I figure I need to take probably 3-4" out of it
 
Got sway bar arms so I can run a nascar sway bar, its a shame that I have to cut them up, but oh well. I think I'll bust out the tig for it

Too bad the sway bar is going to over 100 if I have to get it new, I can only find one bar on ebay and it's only 5/8, which I may settle for. I'll wait it out for a few weeks more first though

I think I can get away with the tinner bar since it is wider, then there won't be as much of a lever arm acting against it. It would be 43" wide, which is pretty wide but will work fine

My current bar is 1.125" and I think it's a little too stiff

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...0992777698&pt=Race_Car_Parts&autorefresh=true

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Tig welded for the first time using filler rod today

I've got 3 more to practice on lol

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I wouldn't mount the radiator to the frame up front, too much twist I think. Or are you leaving it in the rad support too?
 
I'm thinking that I am going to use the stock mount from the core support but make everything else.

It would be mounted to the frame, But I think it shouldn't twist too much with the extra bracing I have an the front bumper

I want to just cage the front out and then have the 4 bolt plates against the firewall so when I do the inside cage I can just bolt to it. Hopefully the bolts don't rip out before I do the inside cage.

I haven't really looked into it at all yet though, I definitely want some kind of bushing between the radiator mount and frame though.


I'm thinking I want to make my truck as light as possible, I'm considering a LS engine swap. I figure taking the doors off is going to save 300#, the front is supposed to save 200#, the ls swap would be another 200#. Probably cut at least 300# of the back when I bobbed it and can cut out more.

This guy on pirate has had his mounted on the frame for a while now with no problems

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sweet, rigidness would be your friend for that then...sounds like a good plan.
 
I'm going to try and take it out to a place semi-local after I'm done with finals in school, which after the first week of May.

They have some trails and a little bit of rocks. It will be a start

My truck should be good after I limit the droop on the front pumpkin. The other limit straps aren't needed right away, hopefully.

My main problem is I have to keep my truck outside

Also those sway bar arms ended up being aluminum, which make it a little more difficult to extended them, but I think I have it figured out
 
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Posting these for some inspiration, and so I can save them













 
Indeed, if I take the doors off, there really isn't a point in having the roof, and then when I cut off the roof there isn't a point in having the back sheetmetal, and then at that point there isn't anything left.

Maybe I'll try to wheel it first
 
My turn radius sucks compared to my stock k35 with stock steering.

I think I need a longer pitman arm, I want to say this one is about 6,5" and most aftermarket arms are 7". plus mine isn't perfectly centered which is also annoying. But it was free and worked for long enough

I'm just going to make one like this and use a heim. I'll probably make two, I'll probably make the one for my crew cab with this pitman arm and the one for my suburban with a billet nascar pitman arm



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That is cool! I would have a tough time imagining that breaking so long as the weld (steel to cast) was done properly!
 
The streering arm should be forged steel so it should weld fine

The one pictured was John Currie's and it was made from a stock arm and he won KOH stock class with it
 
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