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Howdiy's halfassed 4 link

howdiy

howdiy

1/2 ton status
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In this thread I will attempt to 4 link the back of my suburban for cheap

Right now I am considering buying brackets from shaffers offroad that will weld right on

Cost is 150$ for brackets only, the dimpled plate isn't included.

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Or I can use the stock front leaf spring mounts

4link_side.JPG


While quite booty fab it did work well for this for a few years

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Also, I will be using tractor joints. Total cost will be under 100 dollars for all of them. And to be honest with you I also want to do it just so I can make a thread on pirate gen4x4 and enjoy the responses.

I will go to a high quality joint when I have extra money.

And as far as link material, I'll go down to the local metal supplier I think they should have enough remnants to do the links.

And the truss would just be something simple like this
PIC_0169.JPG


And as far as shocks go I am going to try and find some used coilovers in the 300-350 dollar range. Or I could always go to FOA's.

But would I need 2" or 2.5" shocks? The 2.5 cost about 100 bucks more.

Coils and shocks seem like they will be the same as the cost of one coilover so I will try and go all out the first time.

Sincerely,
Howdiyduty

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I like the idea! Make sure you test it out close to home but I would like to link my rig one day but I am going to watch your trial and error to see what works (and possibly doesn't) with yours first.
 
I have been going back and forth on the coilover swap like everyday now.

I went up to GA where my cousin built an explorer, on 40's 4 linked front and rear with stupid duty axles. I am inlove with how it rides....

Price sucks though, I like the idea of using the factory spring hangers for the lower link mounts.
 
Scribed!

sounds great, i want to see how this comes out. 4 link is on my list of things i would like to do (but never will). :rolleyes:
 
go for noise man, one thing I may suggest is to find something to make the tracter end link hole a little smaller so you don't have to redo your brackets when you go to a better joint. They use a huge bolt and most heims or other joints use a much smaller one.

So figure out which heim or joints (may I suggest a rebuildable joint over a heim) you want to use and see if you can build your brackets for those and just use spacers and bushings on the end link to make up for the differences
 
blazinzuk said:
go for noise man, one thing I may suggest is to find something to make the tracter end link hole a little smaller so you don't have to redo your brackets when you go to a better joint. They use a huge bolt and most heims or other joints use a much smaller one.

So figure out which heim or joints (may I suggest a rebuildable joint over a heim) you want to use and see if you can build your brackets for those and just use spacers and bushings on the end link to make up for the differences
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x2!!

I used tractor links when I built my trac bars...I think they use like a 3/4" bolt...Which BTW is a 15freaking dollar drill bit...ask me how I know.:mad:
 
i really hope that shaffers starts makin SAS kits! the prices arent bad at all for what they proposed. but hijack off
im looking forward to see how this turns out for you
 
Cool as hell...

I love the stock leaf hanger idea...

Anytime you can build for cheap using what's already on our trucks, it's cool...

Looking forward to seeing how this turns out...
 
I'd like to see how it turns out too. Not sure about using square tube like in the one picture though - I think you'd be better off to buy a stick of DOM or good HREW. You shouldn't need too much, so the cost there will not increase your project budget too much.

broncoman6524 said:
15freaking dollar drill bit...ask me how I know.:mad:
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that's nothin! i own one or two $20 ones and they're still the cheapo's! :haha: ask rdn2blazer or whatever his SN is... i bet he's got thousands of dollars in a handful of drill bits! :D
 
The stock front hanger idea isn't so new . 4 link kits have been out awhile for Novas and Camaros that do the same thing , take the lowers from the leaf spring pocket .

In the car world , you can use a new rear diff cover that is both stud girdle and upper link mounts . No way would that work for wheeling though , you'd rip the uppers off LOL
 
I thought this over night and I will be trying to do it as cheap as possible so no coil overs since that seems what most are interested in. Plus I'm cheap anyways :D

I'll try to find cheap coils and use some cheap shocks.

Right now I'm thinking bronco 6" lift coils

I figured if it turns out bad I can always go to the shaffers kit

I really hate my leaves already and I haven't even wheeled it.

I'll be out of town for a week so I'll start gathering parts when I get back.


I already have timbren rubber springs which are supposed to be a cheap version of a air bump.

I paid around 50 for both

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I should have a 3d cab drawling done by tonight

I'll play with the numbers on my moms laptop during the 12 hour ride. :doah:
 
Well the spring mounts will definitely have to move unless you are extending the wheel base like on a truggy.

I am going to move mine forward 12"

Mine are 2wd though and the link mounts will be about 1" up from the bottom of the frame which is around 27-28" from the ground

I have the suburban cross member in the way though so I'll have to do something about that

Right now I'm trying to find out what a good antisquat number is and what a good roll center is. I know on a racecar you want a pretty low RC.

I think I am just going to run poly bushings in the stock leaf spring hangers instead of tractor joints.
 
Stomis said:
Poly bushings are a good idea on anything that will see road time. You'll fell that sway with joints and no sway bar
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I'll have bushings only one end, and tractor joints on the other.

I may just go to decent ends if I can get a good deal.

1-tonmudder said:
Might be the best thing goin and last forever but I prefer something that's not soo ghetto lookin,but thats just me.
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Most people at the mall rarely check under my truck anyways.
 
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