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Howdiy's halfassed 4 link

Heres my numbers

I may have to have the uppers a little shorter than they are in the pic by a few inches and maybe a little lower.

83% antisquat which is right in the range.

After the links are lowered and shortened I'm up to 110% anti squat which is still perfectly fine.

I can mess with the lower link axle mount a bit to get it to 100% squat also which is neutral.


rough4link.jpg
 
Something like this would make my anti squat less than 100%
lowerlinkfront.jpg


I want try try and truss the whole thing with a dimple died piece like this also

attachment.php


IMG_0466.jpg



It should be exactly like this but with dimpled holes

newboystruck141.jpg
 
I'm gonna scrap the coil idea

I think the time and effort isn't worth it for what I'd be getting.


I'm on the hunt for some coilovers

I found air shocks but I don't think they would really do very well.
 
What does the roll axis angle mean?

Should I shoot for zero?
 
Just because they would be holding up a suburban and not a buggy
 
38377k5 said:
9 degree roll axis angle is way high, try to reposition the mounts (as you see them from above) to fix it.
Click to expand...

It's even worse when you consider that it is 9 degrees of roll oversteer.

That should be like 3 degrees of roll understeer.

Spend some time reading up about this before you just jump into it. A well setup link suspension takes some time and effort prior to the first wrench being turned.

We are looking at the rear suspension on the race car and have spent about 25 hours so far running through different setups and ideas and haven't even come close to turning the first wrench yet.
 
howdiy said:
rough4link.jpg
Click to expand...

What program is this and how do I get it and learn it? It looks sweet. I would like to use this to design my 4 link. The article I read about designing 4 link told me to use graph paper and trig to figure it out so I scraped the idea but if I could use a program like this I think it would make it fun again.
 
View attachment New Picture (2).bmp

Try this. It's not great but I didn't tweak much. I played with the lower mounting point on the axle and the both mounting points on the frame.

Not saying it works in your app. But it is one hell of a lot better than what you had. Keep the links level or as close to it at ride height.
 
GsxrMike said:
What program is this and how do I get it and learn it? It looks sweet. I would like to use this to design my 4 link. The article I read about designing 4 link told me to use graph paper and trig to figure it out so I scraped the idea but if I could use a program like this I think it would make it fun again.
Click to expand...

Fourlink Calculator in Excel from Triaged on Pirate.

And since I feel like being nice right now.


http://mysite.verizon.net/triaged/files/4BarLinkV3.1d.zip
 
You must be defining anti-squat differently from how I understand it. I wouldn't think you would want more than 50% anti-squat, especially if you are going to use it at speed off-road. With too much anti-squat, you will get a lot of rear suspension jacking.

Also you don't want a low RC, you want the RC just a little below the CG, and lower in the front than in the rear (ideally).
 
This was on Pirate and is really simple.

make you lowers as long as you want/can. ie 48" long

make the uppers 70%ish as long. ie 36" long

mount the ends at the axle tube 25%+ of the tire height. ie 44" tire you want them 11" apart.

mount the frame ends 70% of the axle tube spread.
 
hmatiak said:
And you plan on keeping it as a full bodied burban?

Check out this thread: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=641709&highlight=chevy+build

Doesnt get much easier than with the air shocks. $400 ea though is the only downside.

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Fox-2.5-Air-Shocks-p-182.html
Click to expand...

Yes full bodied

38377k5 said:
The roll axis is how much the axle will "steer" itself as the suspension travels (i.e. if the roll axis angle isn't 0 the axle will move forward/back in the wheel well as the suspension travel up/down), there's a little explanation of it with pictures here about 3/4 of the way down the page (though he calls it flex steer)

So yes, you want the roll axis angle as close to 0 as possible.
Click to expand...

Oh that seems kind of bad :haha:

miniwally said:
It's even worse when you consider that it is 9 degrees of roll oversteer.

That should be like 3 degrees of roll understeer.

Spend some time reading up about this before you just jump into it. A well setup link suspension takes some time and effort prior to the first wrench being turned.

We are looking at the rear suspension on the race car and have spent about 25 hours so far running through different setups and ideas and haven't even come close to turning the first wrench yet.
Click to expand...

I've spent probably 10 minutes in the program and an hour researching, no where enar done yet. :wink1:

Can you upload a pic to a public site, I can't see attachments


I'm in a hotel so I'll probably be back on tomorrow night
 
This might be a different view than some but your first link suspension is somewhat of an experiment I try to build in a couple of possibility's when I do links if possible making a couple of up and down holes for the links to adjust to what a certain person likes. Sometimes you can sometimes you cant.

Keep playing with the numbers alot. Sometime you will go back to the orginal thought sometimes end up going a completely different way
 
I used these brackets so I can fine tune my rear link suspension.
You'll more than likely need to triangulate your lowers to get oyur roll axis in check.
IMG_0003.jpg

IMG_0086.jpg
 
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