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Hydro assist on the cheap...Under $100

Steve, I have heard that with hydro assist, the wheel still returns to center due to caster.

Blazin, that would be a single shear connection and not as strong. I am thinking of mounting it the way you describe, but with a tab on the outside of the ram to provide a double shear mount.

Like this:

hydro.JPG

It is a top view x-section with the shoulder bolt in blue, the ram end in red, and the bracket in black. It will, of course, be suitably gusseted. Comments????

hydro.JPG
 
Well my plan is to incorporate that into the diff cover. So the straight black line on the bottom would be a tapped 3/8" diff cover.
 
whatcha got for the other end?....i was thinkin another 3/4 bolt welded to x-over, just like said bolt off of axle tube

I am planning on the using Kert's razorback cover. I haven't figured out the tie rod end of the ram yet. Something similar, but I don't know where I'll get the thickness to tap a hole.
 
Steve, I have heard that with hydro assist, the wheel still returns to center due to caster.

Blazin, that would be a single shear connection and not as strong. I am thinking of mounting it the way you describe, but with a tab on the outside of the ram to provide a double shear mount.

Like this:

View attachment 60256

It is a top view x-section with the shoulder bolt in blue, the ram end in red, and the bracket in black. It will, of course, be suitably gusseted. Comments????


If you did this would there be enough front to back movement at the other (tie rod or drag link) end of the ram?

What I am saying is when the steering is all the way left the tie rod is 4 inches from the axle tube.
When the steering is straight the tie rod is 5 inches from the axle tube.
Then when the steering is all the way right the tie rod is again 4 inches from the axle tube, assuming you have the same turning radius left to right.
I don't know the actual measurements from the tie rod to the axle tube, I was just using these #'s for reference.

I think that setup will try to either bend the mounting bolt or the tie rod, assuming the other end of the ram is mounted to the tie rod.
If you used a ram with a ball mount on both ends I think it may work, but I don't think it will with a solid mounted ram. Unless it is mounted like KidJethro's is.

Clear as mud?
Mike
 
is 8'' enuff stroke for factory turning radius? would 10'' stroke be ok or is it to long?

If you used a 10" ram (without internally limiting it) you would break knuckles (i.e. the mechanical steering stops would bottom out before the hydraulic ram would, causing the ram to put all of its stress directly into the knuckle).
 
Last edited by a moderator:
If you did this would there be enough front to back movement at the other (tie rod or drag link) end of the ram?

What I am saying is when the steering is all the way left the tie rod is 4 inches from the axle tube.
When the steering is straight the tie rod is 5 inches from the axle tube.
Then when the steering is all the way right the tie rod is again 4 inches from the axle tube, assuming you have the same turning radius left to right.
I don't know the actual measurements from the tie rod to the axle tube, I was just using these #'s for reference.

I think that setup will try to either bend the mounting bolt or the tie rod, assuming the other end of the ram is mounted to the tie rod.
If you used a ram with a ball mount on both ends I think it may work, but I don't think it will with a solid mounted ram. Unless it is mounted like KidJethro's is.

Clear as mud?
Mike

I know what you are saying. I think it actually changes by more than 1" too. I was planning on using a ram with the heim (ball) style ends (the second surplus link above). I may have to use little conical spacers too. I haven't checked into those details yet, but I'm pretty sure it would work.
 
great read, i had a question tho, for us DD trucks who still wheel.. how is it driving on the street? does it act normal? return to normal? anyone with some real seat time on the streets?
 
great read, i had a question tho, for us DD trucks who still wheel.. how is it driving on the street? does it act normal? return to normal? anyone with some real seat time on the streets?

With a 1.5" ram and the stock pump the steering responds a little slower than stock. I never felt it was a safety issue at all driving it on the street.

The bigger the ram, the more flow it needs and hence needs a bigger pump to move at the same speed. If you use the the stock pump, a bigger ram will move slower. 1.5-1.75" is considered the biggest bore ram to use with a stock pump for a street driven truck.

Of course, GM felt it was acceptable to use the same pump to power both the hydroboost brakes (on diesel and BB trucks) and the power steering on many 3/4 and 1 ton trucks so the stock pump can't be (and isn't) all that bad.
 
I used the 1.5x8 ram with a slightly modded pump and it drives fine on the street. It is somewhat slower, but not by much.
 
Can you use a 2x8 ram on a trail rig only, with the pump mods?

For a trail only rig you can use whatever size ram you want. The bigger the ram, the slower the steering which can still be an issue for a trail only rig.

I wouldn't do the pump mods (other than maybe the flow mod), a good working pump will make more difference than anything else.
 
A 2x8 is still small enough for it not to be an issue, right? I plan on dropping in a brand new pump and adding the extra reservoir, but was not sure on the ram.
 

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