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Hydro assist on the cheap...Under $100

viperrgh2 said:
How does the hydro handle on the road vs a stabilizer shock?
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Hydro assist IS going to slow down your steering, there is no avoiding that.

I don't feel that my 1.5" ram slowed down my steering much, I daily drove my truck with hydro assist for a couple years (including messing around on icy CO roads) and I always felt in control of the vehicle.


The bigger the ram the slower the steering will be (traded off for more steering power).


As for damping the steering, a hydro assist ram does a MUCH better job than a steering stabilizer. It's not the solution to "death wobble" (i.e. actually fixing the problematic steering components is the right way to do that) but a hydro assist ram will stop the steering from cycling like that.
 
74kay5 said:
I also used a new O-ring seal when I put in the JKW cap. Because of the nice big cushy new o-ring, the cap would not go in far enough for the c clip to go on. And after an hour and a half of swearing and funny looks from the neighbors I finally got a clamp on the end of the cap and the rear of the steering box to press it in a little and in it went. I guess a lot of people use the old o-ring becuase I've never heard of anyone else having issues.
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I used a new o-ring and the JKW cap too (actually I rebuilt the whole steering box). I had trouble getting the cap in as well, until I rotated the input shaft (like you are turning left) to retract the piston. Then it went without too much trouble.
 
Either AutoZone or Advanced Auto. I don't recall which. They had a whole re-build kit with all the seals and bearings.

Edit: I just checked, and I got the kit at Advanced. Looking back, I screwed up that o-ring and re-used the original. :doah:

Everything else still applies. More info here.
 
I also got the full rebuild kit (edelman from rock auto) and it's worth it if your using a used 2wd box. I replaced the O-ring for the front cap, and the seal for the top cap after I tapped it. It's nice to have all of them so you can replace as needed.
 
bucksntrucks969 said:
i also have seen the ram mounted to a spring plate with a nifty bracket, search pirate for pictures/write ups.
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That's what I did. Just fabbed up a bracket and went from the spring plate to the tie rod. I've got the behind-the-axle high steer though.
 
85 Jimmy said:
Dragging it up from the dead.

Since the ram the OP used is now discountined (as stated before), and now everyone seems to be using this one http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2008012423475046&item=9-7258-8&catname=hydraulic does this new ram have to have the end cut off and rewelded 90 degrees?
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Yep

But mine was more like under 250

All the tabs were bought from diy4x, they are the 3/8 tabs, I made a note to drill them out to 3/4, and he did. So all I did was weld on the tabs and bolt the cylinder on.

100_0363.jpg
 
Don't you get pissed when you see a thread like this that is awesome, yet you somehow missed in its hay day?!? Damit!

Subscribed for later referance!
 
An update

Just ordered everything from the surplus center and the total was $145.70...
 
thatK30guy said:
What does this mean? Especially on this specific cylinder.
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On the discontinued ram the end had to be cut off, turned 90 degrees, and rewelded. I wanted to know if it had to be done on the new one. from the pics, Howdily didn't have to do it, but BGKYK5 did...

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85 Jimmy said:
How did the ram mount up with Kert's diff cover, loose or pretty much perfect? I plan to run one of his...
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It isn't exactly installed yet. :doah:

But it looks like everything is going to fit real nice.

My ram is the "new" ram. The reason for cutting, rotating 90 degrees, and re-welding is to get the ports facing upwards with a vertical pin on the fixed end of the ram. Howdiy made it work, but his ports face forward. Hopefully that makes sense.

If I remember, I'll take a mock-up picture today and post it up.
 
Does it make a difference where you mount the tube end of the ram? Most I have seen mount the tube end at or near the diff. The dodge thread is mounted at the outside end of the driver axel tube.
 
I see a lot of guys have bought the 1/4 hose. Any reason not to run the 3/8? My fittings on my ram are 3/8 and IIRC the JKW cap is as well.
 
The 1/4 inch hose idea i was told some use that because thats all the pump flows, any larger hose will just be to have more fluid content. But for someone using a larger ram the 3/8 would be better.
 
Also I did it a little differently than the 100.00 idea it cose me a bit more and was a little easier. I bought the ems offroad cap for 35.00 and the trail gear 2.0 ram, hoses, mount for 175.00 ....everything i needed for 210.00. It all fit on real nice, the mounts i had to cut a little but that worked out good. The pump conversion from west texas offroad and cut the neck off the reservoir, weld a piece od exhaust tubing 1.5 x9 and reweld the neck on to use the origional cap.
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