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I cut out the balljoints!

Cut out rusted balljoint nut or change housings>

  • Try to grind off the upper ball joint nut

    Votes: 9 81.8%

  • Change to a newer rust free housing & set up gears

    Votes: 2 18.2%
  • Total voters
    11
johnnychimpo

johnnychimpo

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I pulled the frt. wheels on my '79 K20 yesterday to put on new rotors, calipers & master cylinder. I figured new ball joints wouln't hurt either(driver side needs replacing). I tried my impact (IR 2135ti) on the top ball joint...would'nt budge it. I tried a breaker bar w/4 ft extension.......bent my breaker bar. I liberally soaked everything w/PB blaster yesterday & this morning. Still won't move.

Should I try to cut the nut off with my grinder(no torch available) (no idea how to reach the lower ball joint nut) or should I use another housing I have thats nowhere rusted as bad as this one & change the gears out.(3.08's back to 4.10's).

Before I get flamed about the bolts holding the steering arm on, It was done by the PO. The bolts won't come out either with the impact. I was afraid to use the breaker bar for fear of breaking the bolts off inside the knuckle. Anyone know what grade the markings on these bolts indicate? I have new studs on the way for the knuckle if I can get these d@mn bolts out.




This is what I found.

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go up to lowes and buy one of thoose lil propane torches...i paid 20 bucks for mine and i use it all the time...and do as above is stated...
 
twoslo4five0 said:
go up to lowes and buy one of thoose lil propane torches...i paid 20 bucks for mine and i use it all the time...and do as above is stated...
Click to expand...
Or even better, use MAPP gas. Be careful not to melt anything.:doah:
 
Any ideas on the steering arm "bolts" I really don't want to break them & drill 'em out.
 
I dunno those threads look completely rusted solid. A cutoff wheel looks in order there. Try the heat first though.
 
The ball joints go into the knuckle not the housing.

If you can't get the bolts out you can drill or find another knuckle.

If the Heat soak routine doesn't work in a day or two then I would use a cutoff wheel and take the balljoint nuts off. That will let you drive the ball joint taper out of the inner C and the you can work on getting the ball joints out of the knuckle.

The heat soak routine should loosen the things up.
 
I had some balljoint on a dana 44 that looked like that. I had to cut the nuts off with a cutting torch to get them off. Had them off in less then 15 per side.
 
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miniwally said:
The ball joints go into the knuckle not the housing.
Click to expand...


Yes, but the castle nut is preventing me from removing the ball joints and the knuckle(done this once or twice before).
 
cegusman said:
I had some balljoint on a dana 60 that looked like that. I had to cut the nuts off with a cutting torch to get them off. Had them off in less then 15 per side.
Click to expand...
a cutting torch is on the list of tools to invest in.
 
johnnychimpo said:
Yes, but the castle nut is preventing me from removing the ball joints and the knuckle(done this once or twice before).
Click to expand...

My point was that you don't need a new housing and gears like your poll asks.

Just a new knuckle if you can't get things apart without hurting the knuckle.
 
A grinder & a housing is what I have to work with. I've got it all pulled apart already to do the brakes. Right now it's my semi daily driver. A new knuckle I can do, I've got a couple laying around. I'll try heat first then I'll try not to butcher the knuckle.
 
That castle nut is the least of my worries. I'd be more concerned about the adjusting nut that sits underneath that castle nut once you get the CN out of the way. Chances are, if the castle nut is a bitch to remove, the adjusting nut is gonna be a lot worse than the CN.

I had this problem on an old Ford axle I worked on once. The torch was called to duty to heat the "C" to get the adjusting nut loose enough to back out with an impact gun. It took a while but finally I prevailed.

The best tools I can suggest are a torch, impact gun, and patience. Use common sense, too.
 
Man, looking at your pics again, if you have another axle (housing?), I'd go for that and do the R&P change. There's plenty of info on CK5 on how to do that; without rust.:wink1:
 
roadnotca said:
Man, looking at your pics again, if you have another axle (housing?), I'd go for that and do the R&P change. There's plenty of info on CK5 on how to do that; without rust.:wink1:
Click to expand...


My point exactly. I can get the gears setup no problem & I figure with all the dry rotted seals & such It might be easier & cheaper this way to be able to drive it sooner.
 
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