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I`m in a wee bit of a ****uation

ive got a couple of broken off studs/bolts by taking a nut that would fit that diam bolt and weld in the center of the nut,just fill up the nut with weld. the weld (if done right) will stick to the broken off piece of bolt/stud,then just stick a wrench on there and take out the broken off bolt.
 
NEK5 said:
Just did a little research. According to Dorians' 14BSF tech thread, the housing cover bolts are same thread as 10/12bs, just different length.
Click to expand...

If thats true then they should be 5/16 coarse thread under the assumption that you use a 1/2" wrench on the head
 
I've got a 14bsf and the diff cover bolts are metric. I would have to pull one of the bolts to figure out what size thread it is. If you don't figure it out I'll pull one of the bolts tonight.


NEK5 said:
Just did a little research. According to Dorians' 14BSF tech thread, the housing cover bolts are same thread as 10/12bs, just different length.
Click to expand...
 
you can weld a nut to the remaining bolt then just use the nut to twist out the broken bolt. just hold the a nut, just bigger then the bolt, and weld away.

i never thought it would work but i used it to remove 2 broken bolt on my amc 20 axle.
 
4X4HIGH said:
The diff cover bolts will not be metric.
Click to expand...

FYI. GM used both metric and SAE bolts on all of their Diff covers.
Most all later models I have seen were metric= 8mm 20 threads per inch.
My 10 bolt covers are held on by 8mm metric bolts.
Not sure about the 14B SF but the 14B FF had either 3/8 coarse thread or 8MM. pretty sure the SF were the same size.
 
Thunder said:
FYI. GM used both metric and SAE bolts on all of their Diff covers.
Most all later models I have seen were metric= 8mm 20 threads per inch.
My 10 bolt covers are held on by 8mm metric bolts.
Not sure about the 14B SF but the 14B FF had either 3/8 coarse thread or 8MM. pretty sure the SF were the same size.
Click to expand...
Make sense, as the ones I had in the baggy (almost 100% positive they came off the junk 14bsf I had were m8 bolts)
 
YZEATER said:
you can weld a nut to the remaining bolt then just use the nut to twist out the broken bolt. just hold the a nut, just bigger then the bolt, and weld away.

i never thought it would work but i used it to remove 2 broken bolt on my amc 20 axle.
Click to expand...


X2
I had to do the same thing when bolt that goes into the block that holds on the Alt. broke. It works.
 
YZEATER said:
you can weld a nut to the remaining bolt then just use the nut to twist out the broken bolt. just hold the a nut, just bigger then the bolt, and weld away.

i never thought it would work but i used it to remove 2 broken bolt on my amc 20 axle.
Click to expand...

its almost like someone said this a couple posts before:rolleyes::D
 
Should I bother tapping it out to the original size? Looks to me like the PO just blasted some 5/16ths - 18 on there, so the threads are fubared.

M8x1.25 is hair smaller than the 5/16ths....maybe heli coils? Tap it out to a size up, maybe the 5/16ths?

As I said before, never had to do this, so just a tad nervous with it....
 
shaun89 said:
haha o well, i do the same $h!t, but, have you got the bolts out yet NEK5?
Click to expand...
no, haven`t even tried :o To be honest I`m a little nervous, maybe not tapping them, as much as drilling the broken ones out...
 
NEK5 said:
no, haven`t even tried :o To be honest I`m a little nervous, maybe not tapping them, as much as drilling the broken ones out...
Click to expand...

its not too bad, just be sure to use a center punch before u try and drill them. and i would use a very very small drill bit at first.
 
Thunder said:
FYI. GM used both metric and SAE bolts on all of their Diff covers.
Most all later models I have seen were metric= 8mm 20 threads per inch.
My 10 bolt covers are held on by 8mm metric bolts.
Not sure about the 14B SF but the 14B FF had either 3/8 coarse thread or 8MM. pretty sure the SF were the same size.
Click to expand...

Well, i guess i've gotten real lucky to have never found a GM axle with metric bolts.

Now if you're going to say that some are metric maybe at least give the correct info (8mm x 1.25):D
 
NEK5, I'd say go for it. Get the area clean, use some cutting fluid (oil) when you drill to keep from breaking the drill bit off, and take your time. Best case scenario? You drill them all out, tap or chase the threads and everything is cool. Medium case scenario? You get most of them good, but screw a couple up. Good gasket and RTV, and you'll at least be able to drive it for a while while you determine a new plan. Worst case scenario? You screw a bunch of them up, or the tap/c hase works poorly, and you need to put a 14bff under there.

In a way, I'd say that is kind of a best case scenario.... ;)

Consider the overall cost. Drill bits and gaskets and tapered extractors and all that stuff costs money. I could easily see dropping 30 bucks (or 50 or whatever) on some nice extractors. Then you are nervous, so you get a couple nice drill bits... and some cutting oil... etc etc. Before you know it, you are up to the 100 bucks it would have cost you to pull a 14bolt FF from a junkyard. :)

Either way, I am rooting for ya!

-Dan
 
Didn't see anyone say this yet, you can get left hand drill bits for just this job. A lot of times the bit it's self will back the busted bolt out as you try to drill it:waytogo:
I will usually center punch the busted stud 1st, then use a countersink bit to make it a nice smooth tapered point to start from.
I would drill all the holes and re-tap to 5/16.
Just my $.02:wink1:
 
crawler65 said:
Didn't see anyone say this yet, you can get left hand drill bits for just this job. A lot of times the bit it's self will back the busted bolt out as you try to drill it:waytogo:
I will usually center punch the busted stud 1st, then use a countersink bit to make it a nice smooth tapered point to start from.
I would drill all the holes and re-tap to 5/16.
Just my $.02:wink1:
Click to expand...
If there were 5/16ths bolt forced in there, will the be enough metal to drill and retap for 5/16th?
 
Swapping in a new axle housing would be a lot of work because you would have to set up the gear set again.

If you end up with a couple of bolt holes un-useable, maybe a heavy-duty diff cover would still seal OK.

Or clean the axle real well, fill with synthetic lube and weld the cover on 360 degrees.:D
 
Drilled the old bolts dead center, used the tapered extractor, they all came right out, and all the holes are tapped to they`re original size! :woot:
 
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