I was TWICE the legal limit!

[Citizen Rider]

Replace the plugs deffinatly. Dont get platinums, ive always had trouble with them and end up fixing friends that use them. Cheapo ACDelco plain plugs are worth the 8 bucks to replace. Even if its not the problem....

 

[HarryH3]

Texas tests for the same things, but their readout also lists Oxygen for some reason. That reading made it pretty clear what was causing the problem with my emissions. I don't remember ever seeing that on the test sheet when I lived in Colorado, but it was worth a shot.

 

[86k5vortec]

here in switzerland i pass with hc below 200: carbed, without a cat, below 1000 rpm. i barely made it, and what helped me get below 200 was tweaking the timing. this was after exchanging plugs, i must admit. i use the cheap ac delcos, too. a friend of mine told me lamborghini owners who can barely pass emmissions here (countach's have 6 double carb setups) use msd capacitive discharge multiple spark ignition systems to get better combustion at low rpms. lambo carbs are set up to run around 7000rpm though..

 

[scooter122983]

Check your timing for a 90 TBI 350 the timing should be at 0 btdc with the esc wire disconnected check this when you do the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. If you didnt plan on doing the cap and rotor now is a good time to replace them or if not check them for cracks and what not. The way I figure it is if you are going to go in "go balls deep".

 

[diesel4me]

ALCOHOL is your FRIEND!..

Add 3-4 bottles of isopropanol dry gas to the tank (1/4 tank or less of gas!) and you'll probably sail right thru the emission tests with flying colors--provided you have the timing set right,engine is in good tune,etc.. advancing the timing might help too..set it back to where it was after the test though..

I've made my 2 454's I had that "flunked" horribly, pass just by adding the alcohol,and doing nothing else!..another vehicle I had would fail unless I left the PVC valve out of its grommet and lying on the valve cover,until the test was over..changing the oil helps too,believe it or not.....

 

[B_to_C]

I still have (at least ) one unresolved question.

How do you go about telling the computer whether it should be in "drive" or "park" mode after a manual swap? Is the default, with no input, the "park" mode? and would this cause poor gas mileage or

 

[RootBreaker]

if yer still having issues with emmissions... put a can of "Guaranteed to Pass" in the tank and follow instructions..

I failed emmissions too... then used that stuff ($6) and followed the instructions... I think it was full tank of gas, this stuff.. drive to 1/4 tank left.. go get inspection with that fuel.. DO NOT FILL UP!!!!!

anywho.... I passed with flying colors...

now here is the screwed up part.. what I actually found out was my secondaries were so out of adjustment.. that at idle.. they were flooding out the engine.. had fuel pouring into the secondaries at idle

that stuff is a godsend.. I am up for inspection in december.. I will use that stuff regardless for inspection now...

 

[Hossbaby50]

You have to ground 2 wires together to get it to run in Park/Neutral mode. Which ones I am not sure but I will check here in a little bit for you.

Harley

 

[dyeager535]

You can do that, (falsify the P/N setup) but it's not right. That stuff is tied into throttle following, etc...it wasn't tied into the ECM just for the heck of it. I'm sure timing is different as well. There's a reason auto and manual PROM's are different.

They will certainly run like that, no idea if it's enough to cause a failure during emissions or not. It won't help though, that's for sure.

 

[Hossbaby50]

This is the manual for a Painless wiring harness but this might help you figure out how to trick the computer into thinking it is in Park.

http://www.painlesswiring.com/Manuals/90503Manual.pdf

This is the excerpt you need:


[FONT=TimesNewRoman,Bold]

4.1 VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR AND TRANSMISSION LOCKUP​

[/FONT][FONT=TimesNewRoman,Bold]

FUNCTIONS​

[/FONT]

Before you install the harness, please decide the following things:

a. Are you going to use a 700 R4 Lockup Transmission that you want
the computer to control the lockup on?
b. Does the engine have to be emissions legal; i.e. does the EGR
valve and /or air solenoid, and diverter valve need to be
connected?​

[FONT=TimesNewRoman,Bold]

2​

[/FONT][FONT=TimesNewRoman,Bold]

[/FONT]

If you answered yes to either or both of these questions then you must connect the

wires labeled VSS to a vehicle speed sensor that will provide a two (2) or four (4)
pulse signal to the computer. On the Throttle Body and Early Model Tuned Port
the sensor should output a square wave and on the late model tuned port engines
it should provide a sine wave output. Painless Wiring offers the correct speed
sensors for use with cable drive (mechanical) transmission outputs.
If you answered no to both of these questions then you may choose not to use a
vehicle speed sensor, but the vehicle will operate more efficiently with one.
If you are going to use a vehicle speed sensor, take the orange/black and
black/white wires in the dash section (labeled for the park/neutral indicator​

switch) and connect them to the Park/Neutral Indicator Switch,

[FONT=TimesNewRoman,Bold]which is designed[/FONT]​

[FONT=TimesNewRoman,Bold]

to tell the computer the transmission is in park​

[/FONT]

, as instructed in 6.2.1, Step D​

and Figure 6.4. Do not connect the wires together.

​

[FONT=TimesNewRoman,BoldItalic]

Important:​

[/FONT]

[FONT=TimesNewRoman,Italic]The orange/black and black/white wires in the dash section that[/FONT]​

[FONT=TimesNewRoman,Italic]

are labeled for the park/neutral indicator switch are to be
connected to the ​

[/FONT]

[FONT=TimesNewRoman,BoldItalic]park/neutral indicator switch, NOT A[/FONT]​

[FONT=TimesNewRoman,BoldItalic]

NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH​

[/FONT]

[FONT=TimesNewRoman,Italic]. Under no circumstances should[/FONT]​

[FONT=TimesNewRoman,Italic]

you connect these wires to a neutral safety switch. (A part/neutral

indicator switch is a switch that tells the computer when the
vehicle is in park or neutral, but a neutral safety switch is a switch
that keeps the vehicle from starting unless it is in park or neutral.)
You should never connect the orange/black and black/white wires
to the vehicle speed sensor wiring.​

[/FONT]

If you are not going to use a vehicle speed sensor then you will take the

orange/black and black/white wires in the dash section (labeled for the
park/neutral indicator switch) and connect them together.​

[FONT=TimesNewRoman,Bold]

4.1.1​

[/FONT]

If you do NOT wish to use the lockup function, tape off and store the​

single purple wire, marked brake switch, in the dash group and the 4-
position square connector in the tail section.​

[FONT=TimesNewRoman,Bold]

4.1.2​

[/FONT]

If you ARE going to use the lockup circuit then you MUST have a vehicle​

speed sensor (VSS) and the correct brake switch. These are necessary to
make the lockup function work correctly. The brake switch should be
closed (electrically connected) when the brakes ARE NOT being applied
and open (not electrically connected) when the brakes ARE being applied.
This is the opposite of a standard brake light switch. The vehicle speed
sensor lets the computer know how fast the wheels are turning.​

[FONT=TimesNewRoman,Bold]

4.1.3​

[/FONT]

Regardless of whether you use the lockup function, the vehicle speed​

sensor (VSS) must be used and is needed by the computer so that it can
command the emissions control devices on the engine. This part is
necessary if you want your vehicle to be street-legal.​

.........................................................​

Harley​

​

 

[B_to_C]

Regardless of whether you use the lockup function, the vehicle speed

sensor (VSS) must be used and is needed by the computer so that it can
command the emissions control devices on the engine. This part is
necessary if you want your vehicle to be street-legal.

NWF says their 205 VSS setup isn't going to be out till sometime in 2007.

Thanks for the info though Harley! really appreciate it.

 

[B_to_C]

You can do that, (falsify the P/N setup) but it's not right. That stuff is tied into throttle following, etc...it wasn't tied into the ECM just for the heck of it. I'm sure timing is different as well. There's a reason auto and manual PROM's are different.

They will certainly run like that, no idea if it's enough to cause a failure during emissions or not. It won't help though, that's for sure.

Is there a way to make my PROM think it's for a manual, or get a PROM from a manual truck? -which would probably be damned near impossible, because I think I would need a 1990-91 manual blazer / burb / Crew which may take milleniums to find in the junkyard.

 

[Hossbaby50]

Get a replacement ECM for a Manual trannied truck from the auto parts store. They are about $100 if I remember right.

If you ground those 2 wires together to make it think it is in park or neutral it will probably run better. My truck thinks it is in park/neutral all the time and it has passed both AZ & CO emissions like that without a functional EGR & such. It is not technically "street legal" but it still passes emissions to be registered legal and nobody but you, me, and the brotherhood know that.

Harley

 

[Musclerodz]

Is there a way to make my PROM think it's for a manual, or get a PROM from a manual truck? -which would probably be damned near impossible, because I think I would need a 1990-91 manual blazer / burb / Crew which may take milleniums to find in the junkyard.

700R4 is not considered to be electrically controlled like the 4l60e. Only the converter is electrically controlled for lock up in the 700r4. Hollander does not show a different ecm for a manual set up. You have a sensor either faulty or not hooked up somewhere on the emmisions side.

Mike

 

[dyeager535]

The ECM is the same, the PROM is not. Guaranteed.

You aren't running a VSS??? That would have been a good thing to know early on, since that sometimes affects stalling, idle, etc. Some people get away with running without it, no problem, while some don't.

As far as I could tell, you could probably run the TBI ECM's without the transfer case mounted VSS (non-speedometer cable setups) with the earlier cable driven VSS, but you'd need to change the speedometer at least.

 

[B_to_C]

dyeager, you said this in another thread...

If your engine is stock, you may get away with just getting a *stock* manual PROM with EGR turned off (and AIR and EVAP to be thorough) which should be pretty cheap. $40 maybe?

where were you thinking he could buy the the manual PROM?

 

[dyeager535]

I thought one of the guys that burns PROM's would be able to do it for you. It's a simple matter if you've got the equipment, but the important part is the PROM "image", which may or may not be something easily found.

TBIchips.com is pretty widely respected, but I *think* someone else asked about a stock PROM, similar situation, and he didn't have anything. Still worth asking. Others might be able to suggest someone else?

 

[B_to_C]

TBIchips.com emailed me back today and said he wil sell me a stock 1990 manual PROM for $50

 

[dyeager535]

The guy has a lot of experience with this stuff, so it seems, and I *believe* you can send him vehicle data logs to burn chips, correct?

I'd ask him if he has any input on your problem, other than giving him $50.

 

[B_to_C]

Yea, he does no doubt. His custom burned chips for our trucks run $95 bucks though...that's when he looks at your WINALDL logs and burns the chip for you. And with me not currently having a way to tell the computer how fast the truck is moving (and having to re-take the emmisions test within ten days from last saturday) I figured the stock chip at $50 will get me closer..and faster then waiting until my ALDL cable shows up, logging some data -which will probably not be great data without the speed input, and then having him burn a chip at twice the price.

This way he's mailing it out today, I'll fiddle around with WINALDL data / speedometer stuff this weekend (+ sprakplugs)...and hopefully pass the re-take test on tuesday