IH scout 800

[chulisohombre]

Looks like it belongs there. Now you will have chevy drivetrain as well as axles. So you have a chevy scout. May as well put a bow tie up front. Lol. That engine wasn't going to last long with no oil pressure. Something was bound to give eventually. Now you know what you got and have the parts to fix it. Piece of mind is a wonderfully thing.

 

[big dan]

Heres my progress from yesterday

I had a good th350 that 3 bolt holes had stripped out on the back. Needless to say with only one holding good and a t-case bouncing around it broke the corner off. Had a friend with a tig machine weld it up for me yesterday and I tapped all the holes to 7/16s.

Used Loctite on the bolts and silicone on the adapter to stop any leaks.

I had my hoist tied up with the old scout motor (someone bought it yesterday for a pretty nice scout restore) so I had to do something else while I waited

Dug through my a/c coil pile and found a decent sized N coil and removed one of the sides

I tried to pull the capillary tubes out of the bottom and just weld a u-tube to utilize the hole thing but I cracked the tubes when I tried to open them up with a swedge so I took out the bottom two rows and welded in a crossover

Don't let the pics fool you, Im actually really good at welding refrigeration lines, just did a crappy job this time. Its ok though, these coils and my silver solder are designed to handle like 500 psi and it didn't leak under pressure after I modified it so Im sure it can handle transmission fluid.

I lucked out and the other end already had 5/16s lines that match the factory tranny cooler lines so I just flared them and will use a union to connect them

And heres my completed transmission cooler, its like 12x15 and 1.5" thick so it should do a good job cooling. I also still need to cut off the bottom row of tubes that are no longer in the system.

Then the guy showed up to get the motor and cleared my hoist so I installed the transmission

Easiest install ever, didn't have to get underneath at all, though I will to bolt up convertor and run the cooler lines. And the factory driveshaft is about 3 inches from the output of the tranny without the t-case attached.

And heres the t-case that I installed through the top and you can see how much too long the driveshaft is, have to have a slip yoke anyways.

Still have to build a crossmember, run transmission lines to the cooler, build driveshafts, and shifting linkage but Im getting closer. Also going to try running tractor fluid in my transmission. Been doing a lot of research on it and even talked to a couple builders that said it was a good idea. Got a 5 gallon bucket for $25 yesterday A 5 gallon bucket of regular dexron is $125 at my local parts store.

 

[big dan]

And I guess my scout is now officially a chevy with a different body and frame, its kind of like a full convertible blazer

Makes me feel better that it fits in a chevy forum kind of.

 

[82355]

Shame about the TH350 though.

Martin

 

[big dan]

Shame about the TH350 though.

Martin

Yeah it sucked but its back together. Surely it will hold but if it doesn't I have another case I will swap all the guts into. It can only do one of two things though, it will either work or it wont.

Ran the cooler lines and installed the cooler and radiator today. Also built a tranny crossmember but no pics. Not sure I want to show it off, its pretty redneck/ghetto

 

[big dan]

drove the scout around the yard today. Still have quite a bit to do, only have front wheel drive at the moment, but I was losing motivation not being able to move it.

Things left to do:
Tranny shifter
T-case shifter
Mount and wire electric fans
Build rear driveshaft
Fix gas pedal, tried to use a chevy pedal/cable and it turned out pretty crappy so Im gonna get some new linkage parts and reuse the scout pedal
Fix the hole in the floor, t-case clocked flat=I had to cut part of the floor out
Repair oil pressure line, it got wrapped around the steering column some how and ripped in half when I turned the wheel, wondered why it was so hard to turn

Ill take some progress pics as soon as it quits raining

 

[big dan]

Well I haven't accomplished anything on my to-do list. Was making the shifting linkage until the shift fork broke inside the 208 and while I have several of them laying around, this was my only 27 spline unit so I kind of lost motivation. But t-case is fixed and back in now so I can progress.

First, proof that it moved. Oddly this is where it also broke down

And heres my np208 torn apart, first time Ive ever seen the inside of one

This is what broke, piece on the left is what sticks through the case that the shift linkage attaches to. Piece on the right is what moves the shift forks inside the case. Found out it was welded together, from the factory Im guessing.

So I cleaned it up and welded it back together to keep from having to tear apart another case for just this piece

And somehow I managed to get the case back together and it all worked

Here it is reinstalled

Flat belly

Here's a pic of my tranny mount, didn't turn out the way I wanted and some of my welds look kind of crappy but I beat the hell out of the tabs with a 3lb hammer and couldn't get them to move so I guess Ill see how they hold

And here's the exhaust I built to fit the block huggers

Still have to finish my shifting linkage and get the center hump back in and build a rear driveshaft but Im getting real close. Hopefully this government shutdown bs will go away in a couple weeks and I can take it on a wheeling trip.

 

[ktmoutfront]

http://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/4130794137.html

Need a couple more?

 

[big dan]

Those are a bit rough and far away for $700 each. I have a line on another one for $200 that runs and has a straight body but the owner is a truck driver and is proving very difficult to get ahold of.

I do however have a small but significant update, the state dmv finally got my paperwork back and now I can go buy a title. Hope to have this thing tagged next week and then Ill get to find out how good it wheels.

I have plans of a spring swap, factory springs are 1.5" wide and 40" long. Needless to say it doesn't ride very well and has no flex. I also have plans of adding power steering. Ive read that a scout II power steering gear is bolt on and now that I have the chevy engine mounting a pump will be no chore. Ive also been looking at getting a set of hummer wheels and tires but Im not sure yet, really want to get 35s but for the price I may settle with the 37" hummer tires.

I also have a ramsey 12000lb winch Ive been trying to sell but no buyers so it will most likely get mounted on the front. I also have a growing pile of tube for a cage and need to get some rectangle tube for rock sliders.

As you can tell there is much to be done and Ive acquired another project

 

[big dan]

Leaves are changing and since I got the scout tagged it was time to go for a ride. Took a mild trail, some decent sized rocks on one end and mud on the other with lots of logs in between and some awesome scenery.

Carnage includes, one battery cable end that needs to be cleaned, burned one spark plug wire in half and had lost some vacuum plugs somehow. Overall nothing major broken, however, power steering and softer springs are definitely on the top of the to do list. Not going to be able to lift my arms and I feel like Ive been kicked in the kidneys.

No action shots of the scout but got some good scenery pics

Its always a little disheartening when you stop for pics and when you try to start your truck back nothing happens when you turn on the key. This is where I discovered the battery cable end sucked. Never had a problem the 1000 times I started in my yard but after this point I had to get out and loosen/wiggle/retighten the positive cable.

 

[big dan]

few more

 

[ashman]

beautiful shots man.

 

[magik235]

Excellent pictures

 

[y5mgisi]

That's a pretty part of the world right there!

 

[big dan]

Decided to start working on something that needed to be done but I have been dreading it. First off I hate working with rusted metal and being 45 years old, this thing has plenty of it and secondly I hate welding upside down and I knew this project was going to require lots of it.

Here's a pic of the passenger side, driver side was just as bad but I didn't take beginning pics.

You can see that the body has came apart where the bedside meets the rocker. I don't have any pics of the inside because the seat mounts cover it up but the body is cracked and broken on the inside as well. Im assuming this was caused by the missing body mounts that are in this area. So I wanted rock sliders, needed them anyway, and I figured it would be a good start to stiffening up the rusty old body.

Here is the outer rocker cut away. Most of the outer part was rust and bondo below where I cut but the inner part still had some decent metal.

I also cut away the factory gas tank mount as there was no use for it anymore and it was mostly just rust anyhow. If you look toward the inside you can see the exposed body mount that is torn off and what Im sure is the cause of my broken body.

Here is the first part of my repair/upgrade. Cleaned piece of tubing held in place with my hilift.

And here it is all welded up. Some of the sheet metal was thin and crappy because of the rust and was difficult to weld. I have several burn holes and Im debating on plating the whole side with 1/8" steel up to the bottom of the door opening. It would make the whole setup much stronger but I really don't want the extra welding.

This is where I had to stop, ran out of cutting material.

I do plan to weld solid braces from the rocker tube down to the frame eliminating the need for to replace the broken body mounts. Once this is complete and a few other things out of the way I will start on my cage that will pass through the floor and weld straight to the braces running to the frame making everything solid.

 

[big dan]

Got the passenger side done today with 3 braces running to the frame

Rust was a little worse on this side, you can see one spot there wasn't any metal to weld to at all.

Close up of the frame braces, welded them to everything they were touching including the factory body mounts and floor braces

Then I went back and added the braces to the driver side

Ive gotten a lot better at welding upside down since the first time. Just takes practices

And now I can rotate tires with just one jack

Should be able to take a pretty good hit to the rocker area with no damage. I still have to cap the ends but Im going to have to trim the fenders a bit so I want to wait till I do that.

Hopefully my body wont rip itself apart before I can get the cage in and stiffen it all up, though its pretty stiff now.

 

[big dan]

One step forward and two steps back. Swapped out the front factory 40" long 1.5" wide springs for some 44" long 2.5" wide spring from a yj for a little better ride/better flex. Required cutting off all the spring hangers and replacing them.

Got it all finished up and back on the ground and took it for a test drive. Rear pinion bearings froze up and the ring/pinion are smoked. All the teeth are intact but scarred up real bad. No reason to replace all the bearings without the gears.

Found a cab and chassis 14 bolt for $150, may pick it up and narrow a front to match. Then Ill have narrower axles like I really wanted. I have a new phone that I don't know how to operate so Ill get up some pics when I can.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Isn't it C&C 14FF with SRW hubs and you get a nice narrow axle?

Or is that DRW hubs?

 

[big dan]

the drw hubs makes it narrow. A c&c rear is the same axle as a regular single wheel truck axle with dually hubs.

Havent decided what I want to do yet. Really want to make it 6-lug and run the 33s that I have but its gonna cost some money to build a rear end. Was just fixing to buy some higher compression heads to help my propane burner but I guess that will have to wait a little while longer.

 

[big dan]

Guess I made up my mind. Found ring/pinion with bearings in good shape for $90. Going to fix what I have and get it going again. Hopefully within the next week.