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IH scout 800
- Thread starter big dan
- Start date
Nice updates! 
Especially the
part!
Especially the
part!
I like Dana 60's.
Martin
Martin
chulisohombre
1/2 ton status
Who doesn't Martin? Lol. You got a few sets of axles there.
Yup Dana 60s are nice. Been looking at going back to regular crossover with hydro assist, main reason for full hydro is that I couldn't find a steering box that would work. Soon as I get the hydro working and all the bugs worked out I find one. So I would need to find knuckles for that, plus I've been wanting lower gears and have been looking at chromoly axles since I sold mine thinking I wouldn't need them.
Anyway read a post by sweetk30 (I think) about bearings, breaks etc and thought what's more reliable and stronger than a 60? Then I found muddog's forsale ad with sets of axles for about the same as what I would spend on upgrades. Worked out the details and I picked up 2 sets
.
Really and truly I don't want to up my tire size. 35s get me most anywhere I want to go and figure it will be even better once I can pound on the gas pedal without fear. Plus my wife was all for it when I told her we'd spend less time broken on the trail.
Anyway read a post by sweetk30 (I think) about bearings, breaks etc and thought what's more reliable and stronger than a 60? Then I found muddog's forsale ad with sets of axles for about the same as what I would spend on upgrades. Worked out the details and I picked up 2 sets
.Really and truly I don't want to up my tire size. 35s get me most anywhere I want to go and figure it will be even better once I can pound on the gas pedal without fear. Plus my wife was all for it when I told her we'd spend less time broken on the trail.
Only downside to bigger axles is less ground clearance. It will be like you are running 33s or smaller under the diffs.
According to my measurements I'm only losing about 3/4."
My biggest problem with staying with my current tires is that now that I have the strength it's too easy to upsize and I've always wanted 40s
Every 1" of ground clearance lost under the axles is the equivalent of 2" of tire size. That is why 14 bolt shaves are so popular. But yes, bigger is almost always better. If you are running 1 tons on anything but a street only truck you would be a fool to not run at least a 37 as long as you have the gearing to turn them.
Traded for another scout. It was pretty nice before it rolled off the pond bank. Cant believe the owner was ok but this shows why every scout I own and drive will get a roll cage
After I got the top straightened back out I tried to put it on my scout but the a-pillars of the roll cage were in the way
Few minutes with a torch
And since my cage was no longer in the way of the doors
I need a new cage now of course but I never was satisfied with the old one. Yeah it would have kept me safe in a roll over but it was too low and I couldn't put a top or doors on. The ability to remove the top and doors is only cool when you can put them back on. New cage is in the works and the work continues.
As far as the new scout goes, the drivetrain is in really good condition, I can actually start it and drive it around with it smashed in but I mostly got it because the doors are perfect (were off during the rollover), has a perfect factory dash with a dash pad (never saw a scout with the factory dash pad intact) and the rear corners where the tail lights go some how survived the roll and are in really good shape (nos replacements for these, which are the only thing available, are $550 per side). Going to use the good body parts off this one as well as the frame and drive train and put it together with the other good body I have to make a nice original scout for my wife which is what she wanted. On a side note, I found another that Im going to try to buy, I swear it will be the last one if I do.
After I got the top straightened back out I tried to put it on my scout but the a-pillars of the roll cage were in the way
Few minutes with a torch
And since my cage was no longer in the way of the doors
I need a new cage now of course but I never was satisfied with the old one. Yeah it would have kept me safe in a roll over but it was too low and I couldn't put a top or doors on. The ability to remove the top and doors is only cool when you can put them back on. New cage is in the works and the work continues.
As far as the new scout goes, the drivetrain is in really good condition, I can actually start it and drive it around with it smashed in but I mostly got it because the doors are perfect (were off during the rollover), has a perfect factory dash with a dash pad (never saw a scout with the factory dash pad intact) and the rear corners where the tail lights go some how survived the roll and are in really good shape (nos replacements for these, which are the only thing available, are $550 per side). Going to use the good body parts off this one as well as the frame and drive train and put it together with the other good body I have to make a nice original scout for my wife which is what she wanted. On a side note, I found another that Im going to try to buy, I swear it will be the last one if I do.
:rofl:Finally some updates. Getting really close to having the 60 ready to swap out in the front so we took the scout for one last wheeling trip before I tore it down. Only pic is of some carnage. Hit a small log that was hidden in some tall grass with the back tire. Hit is so hard it bounced the back end up off the ground and busted the belts in the tire.
Since it was all trail and dirt road I drove it all the way home like this
. It didn't actually puncture the rubber but with the air out of the tire you can push your hand all the way through that bulge and touch the other sidewall, but it still holds air
. Got a friend that can get tires ordered me a blem, $150 for a 35-12.50. Had some overheating issues and I know my fans and radiator are big enough. When we pulled over to cool down I opened the hood and saw something that Ive never noticed before. My engine compartment is a funnel with nowhere for the heat to go but down the tranny tunnel. So I have cut part of the inner fenders out and I found a side panel off an old trane in my yard and used it for a hood louver.
My wife also complained about the spare tire and hi-lift jack in the back rattling around. I don't always listen to my wife's complaints but when it comes to wheeling I do my best to rectify the situation in order to keep her going. So here is my solution:
Started with this
And did this to it
Then added some more pieces
Mounted my new bumper with lots of gussets and 6- 5/8" bolts, its going to need to be able to hold lots of weight. I also don't know where I came up with a 12" drop hitch but it worked great for balancing the bumper on the jack to mark the holes
Here it is coming together. I added a piece of 2"x1/4" angle in case someone or something hits my spare tire all the load wont be on the latch and maybe it will keep the back of my scout from folding in.
And heres my latch made from a piece of 2x2 angle, a 5/8 " pull pin, and a castle nut
And an action shot. Still needs a little work but Ive moved on to installing the front axle.
Heres my new Toyota steering gear box to remove the full hydro. I didn't have a problem with the full hydro and have driven it at least 100 miles on pavement. It wasn't bad but any more than 5-10 miles at a time is tiresome and I would like to be able to drive farther with a better feel. I originally went full hydro because scout power steering gear boxes are hard to find and expensive when you do. Shortly after I got the hydro setup and all the bugs worked out I figured out that a Toyota ifs gear box was almost a direct bolt on. So now Ive got one that Im going to drill for hydro assist and swap it out the same time as the 60
And an aerial view of the scout from my loft. Sitting on jack stands waiting for parts
Since it was all trail and dirt road I drove it all the way home like this
. It didn't actually puncture the rubber but with the air out of the tire you can push your hand all the way through that bulge and touch the other sidewall, but it still holds air. Got a friend that can get tires ordered me a blem, $150 for a 35-12.50. Had some overheating issues and I know my fans and radiator are big enough. When we pulled over to cool down I opened the hood and saw something that Ive never noticed before. My engine compartment is a funnel with nowhere for the heat to go but down the tranny tunnel. So I have cut part of the inner fenders out and I found a side panel off an old trane in my yard and used it for a hood louver.
My wife also complained about the spare tire and hi-lift jack in the back rattling around. I don't always listen to my wife's complaints but when it comes to wheeling I do my best to rectify the situation in order to keep her going. So here is my solution:
Started with this
And did this to it
Then added some more pieces
Mounted my new bumper with lots of gussets and 6- 5/8" bolts, its going to need to be able to hold lots of weight. I also don't know where I came up with a 12" drop hitch but it worked great for balancing the bumper on the jack to mark the holes
Here it is coming together. I added a piece of 2"x1/4" angle in case someone or something hits my spare tire all the load wont be on the latch and maybe it will keep the back of my scout from folding in.
And heres my latch made from a piece of 2x2 angle, a 5/8 " pull pin, and a castle nut
And an action shot. Still needs a little work but Ive moved on to installing the front axle.
Heres my new Toyota steering gear box to remove the full hydro. I didn't have a problem with the full hydro and have driven it at least 100 miles on pavement. It wasn't bad but any more than 5-10 miles at a time is tiresome and I would like to be able to drive farther with a better feel. I originally went full hydro because scout power steering gear boxes are hard to find and expensive when you do. Shortly after I got the hydro setup and all the bugs worked out I figured out that a Toyota ifs gear box was almost a direct bolt on
. So now Ive got one that Im going to drill for hydro assist and swap it out the same time as the 60
And an aerial view of the scout from my loft. Sitting on jack stands waiting for parts
Many updates to come as I'm nearing the end of my Dana 60 and front spring swap, I still have to upload pics which is a pain with my slow azz internet.
Louvered hood was a flop since I'm impatient and can't weld sheet metal worth a flip I warped it pretty bad so I tossed it and put on another hood. Currently I'm repairing my hood latch/grill so I can do away with hood pins. Hopefully cutting out the inner fenders will give the air a place to escape.
The toyota gear box was a flop too. Spent several hours mocking it up and when I finally got it positioned to where everything lines up I found out I was going to have to limit up travel and turning to keep the tire from hitting the box. Also needed a bent drag link and the part that really canned it was needing a metric splined u-joint to connect my steering shaft. So I threw the old hydraulic stuff back on to get it going. Think Ive about decided to just upgrade my hydraulic stuff to a double ended ram with lr orbital and a psc pump and go with it.
Now my biggest revelation came from the brakes. Originally I had a scout master cylinder which worked ok but leaked. When I swapped in rear disks it got worse. Since scout masters are like all other scout parts, hard to find and damn expensive so I did what all the other scout guys did and swapped in a corvette manual master for disk brakes. Braking didn't improve but the leak was gone.
Now I swapped in a Dana 60 with bigger brakes and with hopes of better brakes. After rolling about 30ft past my mail box with the pedal on the floor I decided I'd had it and was planning on buying a wilwood master. But what size was the question.
Up until this time I thought manual master for manual brakes and power master for power brakes. After much research all my previous knowledge about master cylinders went out the window. It's all about matching caliper size to master cylinder bore and pedal ratio. Scouts have unusally long pedals so I have a high ratio and research said I needed a 1-1/8" bore master. Happened to have one on a 77 parts k10 (power brakes none the less). So I swapped it on to try, best brakes on an offroad rig I've ever owned. Plus I saved $200 on the wilwood master. In my mind that means I can spend $200 somewhere else.
Should have everything completed soon and out for a trail run. Sorry for all the words and no pics, hopefully my Internet will cooperate and I can get them up soon.
Louvered hood was a flop since I'm impatient and can't weld sheet metal worth a flip I warped it pretty bad so I tossed it and put on another hood. Currently I'm repairing my hood latch/grill so I can do away with hood pins. Hopefully cutting out the inner fenders will give the air a place to escape.
The toyota gear box was a flop too. Spent several hours mocking it up and when I finally got it positioned to where everything lines up I found out I was going to have to limit up travel and turning to keep the tire from hitting the box. Also needed a bent drag link and the part that really canned it was needing a metric splined u-joint to connect my steering shaft. So I threw the old hydraulic stuff back on to get it going. Think Ive about decided to just upgrade my hydraulic stuff to a double ended ram with lr orbital and a psc pump and go with it.
Now my biggest revelation came from the brakes. Originally I had a scout master cylinder which worked ok but leaked. When I swapped in rear disks it got worse. Since scout masters are like all other scout parts, hard to find and damn expensive so I did what all the other scout guys did and swapped in a corvette manual master for disk brakes. Braking didn't improve but the leak was gone.
Now I swapped in a Dana 60 with bigger brakes and with hopes of better brakes. After rolling about 30ft past my mail box with the pedal on the floor I decided I'd had it and was planning on buying a wilwood master. But what size was the question.
Up until this time I thought manual master for manual brakes and power master for power brakes. After much research all my previous knowledge about master cylinders went out the window. It's all about matching caliper size to master cylinder bore and pedal ratio. Scouts have unusally long pedals so I have a high ratio and research said I needed a 1-1/8" bore master. Happened to have one on a 77 parts k10 (power brakes none the less). So I swapped it on to try, best brakes on an offroad rig I've ever owned. Plus I saved $200 on the wilwood master. In my mind that means I can spend $200 somewhere else
.Should have everything completed soon and out for a trail run. Sorry for all the words and no pics, hopefully my Internet will cooperate and I can get them up soon.
Many updates to come as I'm nearing the end of my Dana 60 and front spring swap, I still have to upload pics which is a pain with my slow azz internet.
Louvered hood was a flop since I'm impatient and can't weld sheet metal worth a flip I warped it pretty bad so I tossed it and put on another hood. Currently I'm repairing my hood latch/grill so I can do away with hood pins. Hopefully cutting out the inner fenders will give the air a place to escape.
The toyota gear box was a flop too. Spent several hours mocking it up and when I finally got it positioned to where everything lines up I found out I was going to have to limit up travel and turning to keep the tire from hitting the box. Also needed a bent drag link and the part that really canned it was needing a metric splined u-joint to connect my steering shaft. So I threw the old hydraulic stuff back on to get it going. Think Ive about decided to just upgrade my hydraulic stuff to a double ended ram with lr orbital and a psc pump and go with it.
Now my biggest revelation came from the brakes. Originally I had a scout master cylinder which worked ok but leaked. When I swapped in rear disks it got worse. Since scout masters are like all other scout parts, hard to find and damn expensive so I did what all the other scout guys did and swapped in a corvette manual master for disk brakes. Braking didn't improve but the leak was gone.
Now I swapped in a Dana 60 with bigger brakes and with hopes of better brakes. After rolling about 30ft past my mail box with the pedal on the floor I decided I'd had it and was planning on buying a wilwood master. But what size was the question.
Up until this time I thought manual master for manual brakes and power master for power brakes. After much research all my previous knowledge about master cylinders went out the window. It's all about matching caliper size to master cylinder bore and pedal ratio. Scouts have unusally long pedals so I have a high ratio and research said I needed a 1-1/8" bore master. Happened to have one on a 77 parts k10 (power brakes none the less). So I swapped it on to try, best brakes on an offroad rig I've ever owned. Plus I saved $200 on the wilwood master. In my mind that means I can spend $200 somewhere else
Should have everything completed soon and out for a trail run. Sorry for all the words and no pics, hopefully my Internet will cooperate and I can get them up soon.
Sounds good. Nice find on the MC. Is this truck getting the transfer case upgrade at this time?
It is getting the tcase but not at this time. Ive got to finish up what I've got going and build a new cage to get it wheel able.
I'm collecting parts for the next stage of upgrades which will include a built tranny, that tcase with sye and heavy duty drive lines.
I like to get everything together and ready to go before I do an upgrade that way I don't have a. Lot of down time like I did on my Dana 60 swap. I'm still waiting on parts to finish it.
I'm collecting parts for the next stage of upgrades which will include a built tranny, that tcase with sye and heavy duty drive lines.
I like to get everything together and ready to go before I do an upgrade that way I don't have a. Lot of down time like I did on my Dana 60 swap. I'm still waiting on parts to finish it.
Gotcha.
Many updates to come as I'm nearing the end of my Dana 60 and front spring swap, I still have to upload pics which is a pain with my slow azz internet.
Louvered hood was a flop since I'm impatient and can't weld sheet metal worth a flip I warped it pretty bad so I tossed it and put on another hood. ( Pop rivets are your friend ) Currently I'm repairing my hood latch/grill so I can do away with hood pins. Hopefully cutting out the inner fenders will give the air a place to escape. ( That will help, but watch for water and mud coming in from the tires )
The toyota gear box was a flop too. Spent several hours mocking it up and when I finally got it positioned to where everything lines up I found out I was going to have to limit up travel and turning to keep the tire from hitting the box. Also needed a bent drag link and the part that really canned it was needing a metric splined u-joint to connect my steering shaft. So I threw the old hydraulic stuff back on to get it going. Think Ive about decided to just upgrade my hydraulic stuff to a double ended ram with lr orbital and a psc pump and go with it. ( ( That would be the best way to go....Just keep the cyl up high out of the way )
Now my biggest revelation came from the brakes. Originally I had a scout master cylinder which worked ok but leaked. When I swapped in rear disks it got worse. Since scout masters are like all other scout parts, hard to find and damn expensive so I did what all the other scout guys did and swapped in a corvette manual master for disk brakes. Braking didn't improve but the leak was gone.
Now I swapped in a Dana 60 with bigger brakes and with hopes of better brakes. After rolling about 30ft past my mail box with the pedal on the floor I decided I'd had it and was planning on buying a wilwood master. But what size was the question.
Up until this time I thought manual master for manual brakes and power master for power brakes. After much research all my previous knowledge about master cylinders went out the window. It's all about matching caliper size to master cylinder bore and pedal ratio. Scouts have unusally long pedals so I have a high ratio and research said I needed a 1-1/8" bore master. Happened to have one on a 77 parts k10 (power brakes none the less). So I swapped it on to try, best brakes on an offroad rig I've ever owned. Plus I saved $200 on the wilwood master. In my mind that means I can spend $200 somewhere else
Should have everything completed soon and out for a trail run. Sorry for all the words and no pics, hopefully my Internet will cooperate and I can get them up soon.
Finally got some pics uploaded, may have to do a computer overhaul as it takes fooorrrrreeeeevvvvveeeeerrrrrr to do anything anymore.
Anyway here's my new spring hangers I built out of scrap metal cause Im too damn cheap to buy anything nice
Here they are welded on with some crappy welds I had to grind down and redo. You can see how far back they are from the original mounts I welded on. Going from a 44" front spring to a 56"
Dana 60 is in place
Shackle hanger mounted with plate welded in to the frame to repair the part that ripped off with the old bumper
Forgot to get a pic of the super cool shock mounts I build out of some leftover cut up ford towers and some more scrap steel. Think Im going to start working on plans to link the front, may be a year or so down the road but I can start gathering stuff. Lots of pics I missed but I get carried away when Im working. Final shot is of the finished front bumper and running scout ready for the trail.
And how long did it stay together? 3 days. Ive been planning on a new cage, I want it real strong, like last forever strong so I decided the mounts were the beginning point. I needed a way to tie the cage to the frame and plenty of support. Started looking at the patched together floor and rust and started cutting out the rust.
Before long I had this
Went to the steel yard and bought a 4x8 sheet of 1/8" and 3/16" and 20 feet of 3x3/16" flat bar. While it wasn't cheap I have to say it has been so nice working with good clean metal as opposed to recycled pre-rusted crap from some other project
Crappy pic but I cut out a new "inner rocker" from the 3/16 plate and welded it in for a starting point
Made some outriggers for the cage to attach to, as that is what sparked this in the first place. All 3/16" plate welded from the inner rocker to the frame, one at the front of the floor pan and one at the rear
Originally when I got this the body mounts were trashed so I used a piece of tube welded in the rocker, to solve a rust issue, and braced it back to the frame. Now that I had some support it was time to cut it out. I kept cutting till I got all the rust
Everything from the bottom door hinge down, gone. I cut off like 10" total. Cut a piece of 3" flat bar the to weld to my fenders and make the new rocker, or boatside if that's what you want to call it
Then comes another piece of 3/16" plate to make a triangle shape between the flat bar and the inner rocker panel
Real hard to see some of the pic, don't know if its the lighting in my shop or my old cell phone but next I added another piece of 3/16" plate from the bottom of the new "rocker panel" all the way to the frame, welded all the way around and to both body mounts/cage outriggers
Heres and inside view looking down before the floor goes in.
And a side shot giving a better view of whats going on
Got most of driver side done including the floor made out of 1/8" plate. Still have a few welds left to finish up but Im mid project and burnt out so Im going to take a bit of a break. Its slow tedious work with lots of welding. Its going to add probably 200lbs worth of weight and will essentially make it a unibody but it should be super strong, give good clearance, and most important give me a good solid mounting point for my cage and seats.
Anyway here's my new spring hangers I built out of scrap metal cause Im too damn cheap to buy anything nice
Here they are welded on with some crappy welds I had to grind down and redo. You can see how far back they are from the original mounts I welded on. Going from a 44" front spring to a 56"
Dana 60 is in place
Shackle hanger mounted with plate welded in to the frame to repair the part that ripped off with the old bumper
Forgot to get a pic of the super cool shock mounts I build out of some leftover cut up ford towers and some more scrap steel. Think Im going to start working on plans to link the front, may be a year or so down the road but I can start gathering stuff. Lots of pics I missed but I get carried away when Im working. Final shot is of the finished front bumper and running scout ready for the trail.
And how long did it stay together? 3 days. Ive been planning on a new cage, I want it real strong, like last forever strong so I decided the mounts were the beginning point. I needed a way to tie the cage to the frame and plenty of support. Started looking at the patched together floor and rust and started cutting out the rust.
Before long I had this
Went to the steel yard and bought a 4x8 sheet of 1/8" and 3/16" and 20 feet of 3x3/16" flat bar. While it wasn't cheap I have to say it has been so nice working with good clean metal as opposed to recycled pre-rusted crap from some other project
Crappy pic but I cut out a new "inner rocker" from the 3/16 plate and welded it in for a starting point
Made some outriggers for the cage to attach to, as that is what sparked this in the first place. All 3/16" plate welded from the inner rocker to the frame, one at the front of the floor pan and one at the rear
Originally when I got this the body mounts were trashed so I used a piece of tube welded in the rocker, to solve a rust issue, and braced it back to the frame. Now that I had some support it was time to cut it out. I kept cutting till I got all the rust
Everything from the bottom door hinge down, gone. I cut off like 10" total. Cut a piece of 3" flat bar the to weld to my fenders and make the new rocker, or boatside if that's what you want to call it
Then comes another piece of 3/16" plate to make a triangle shape between the flat bar and the inner rocker panel
Real hard to see some of the pic, don't know if its the lighting in my shop or my old cell phone but next I added another piece of 3/16" plate from the bottom of the new "rocker panel" all the way to the frame, welded all the way around and to both body mounts/cage outriggers
Heres and inside view looking down before the floor goes in.
And a side shot giving a better view of whats going on
Got most of driver side done including the floor made out of 1/8" plate. Still have a few welds left to finish up but Im mid project and burnt out so Im going to take a bit of a break. Its slow tedious work with lots of welding. Its going to add probably 200lbs worth of weight and will essentially make it a unibody but it should be super strong, give good clearance, and most important give me a good solid mounting point for my cage and seats.
chulisohombre
1/2 ton status
More mods going good. That thing will be stronger than ever with the new boatsides. And slide right over rocks.
Cool progress . . . but for God's sake man please get a camera that can take some better pics. It is a damn shame to not be able to see (with clarity) all the work you are putting into this build.
