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Introduction & K5 Blazer Build Ideas....

Just exploring. Already done the rock crawling thing in Toyotas and Jeeps. It should work out perfect. Any ideas on how many inches from behind the front seats to the tailgate? Don't know if I'll be able to sleep back there, I'm 6'2".
 
My wingspan is right at 6'. I can just touch the doors edge and an inch short of the tailgate. lol
So the inside would be under 6'. Somewhere around 4" less prolly.
I plan on sleeping in mine too. I'm 6'1" and I don't think I can stretch out.
 
I'm 6' 1" and I can sleep comfortably in the back of my rig with the rear seat removed. In fact i'll be doing just that next month when I attend our annual Blazerfest event in Hollister.
 
If it hasn't already had this done...

1. Look up the XJ steering shaft upgrade here on CK5. This is a cheap upgrade that will take alot of sloppy feel out of the steering.

2. Cracks in the frame around the steering box are common in these trucks. Off Road Designs (ORD) makes a nice weld in frame repair plate kit for this problem. They also have a steering box brace to prevent further cracking. Even if your truck doesn't have frame cracks around the steering box, do both of these to prevent it happening. This will also take out any more sloppy feel in the steering.
 
496truck said:
If it hasn't already had this done...

1. Look up the XJ steering shaft upgrade here on CK5. This is a cheap upgrade that will take alot of sloppy feel out of the steering.

2. Cracks in the frame around the steering box are common in these trucks. Off Road Designs (ORD) makes a nice weld in frame repair plate kit for this problem. They also have a steering box brace to prevent further cracking. Even if your truck doesn't have frame cracks around the steering box, do both of these to prevent it happening. This will also take out any more sloppy feel in the steering.
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Thanks for the info. I do recall very sloppy steerring on my older chevy trucks, so I was going to ask about an upgrade. Will probably do the welding kit as well.
 
Without the rear interior side panel thingys it is exactly 6' wide and about 5' 3" from the front floorpan hump(the 6" drop off thingy) to the tailgate. Thats on a 85' jimmy. I dont know exactly what the newer floorpans look like right behind the front seats
 
Just got word that the compression check came out @ 140psi +_3 on all cylinders. Does anyone know what stock was. That sounds pretty good for a motor with 166k on it.
 
sounds like factory was 160psi. Just talked to the tech, 140-145 on all eight. That sounds pretty good for an engine with 166k. More important they are all close on the readings. All fluids in the vehicle are being changed, including the diffs, engine, radiator, tranny & filter getting ready for a 4th weekend drive through the mts on 395. It' officially mine now that I'm paying for the maintenance.
 
The actual number doesn't matter nearly as much as the difference between the lowest and highest reading. For reference I did a compression check on the original engine from my rig when it had 200K+ on it and mine was 195-200 psi on every cylinder which actually surprised me since most V/8's run around 160 psi.
 
4X4HIGH said:
The actual number doesn't matter nearly as much as the difference between the lowest and highest reading. For reference I did a compression check on the original engine from my rig when it had 200K+ on it and mine was 195-200 psi on every cylinder which actually surprised me since most V/8's run around 160 psi.
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wow, that's pretty high (195-200). Definitely agree on the range of numbers should be close as possible.
 
There are a few things that will change the cranking compression readings. The higher the compression ratio is the higher the cranking compression will be, a larger cam will lower the cranking compression, and lastly if there is a bunch of carbon in the chambers/pistons that will increase the cranking compression numbers as well.
 
Couple bumps in the road. After the compression check was done, prior to all the fluids being done, I had them do a pretty thorough inspection. They found:

3 axle seals need to be replaced
Exhaust needs to be replaced from cat back due to rust
small leak at the transfer case/tranny coupling
and the grand daddy:

the rear freeze plug is leaking

This last one causes a little grief. I was thinking I could drive this thing back to San Diego and get some miles before I have to replace the motor. If the rear freeze plug is gone, I believe the tranny has to come out to get to it? Is this correct? If this is the case, then I would be stupid to pull the tranny and put back, then pull the engine a couple months later. This foils my plans to be able to drive the truck now, basically I would have to go ahead and do the swap a lot earlier than I thought. This kills the idea of getting to the river and back for the rest of this season with this engine (October).

What's your opinion on a dribble out of the freeze plug? Serious or not? I assume this is common with this many miles?
 
I would just drive it. Check water level ever so often.
 
seriously, you guys would drive it 500+ miles down 395? I know freeze plugs usually leak slow, but it is summer time and I will be skirting Death Valley.
 
If it were me I would be nervous about making a 500+ mile drive on a HOT day in the middle of a HOT desert with a leaking freeze plug. IF I absolutely had to be somewhere and it was my only vehicle then I would carry a few gallons of water, drop some bars leak into the radiator and pray for a bit then make the drive.
 
Definitely nervous, looks like it could be a deal breaker. The summer heat could put higher pressures inside the cooling system and cause the plug to completely let go. No fix for it on the side of the road, then I'm stuck. Any ideas? I really want this thing, but can't be stupid about it.
 
That drive is a little different than I was talking about. How bad is the leak? I don't think I would give up a nice K5 over that. They are getting harder to find that clean.
How much did they say it would cost to fix it? Use it to them to come off the cost and have the mechanic fix it, so you can drive it home.
 
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