CK5
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Is this 350 still good
- Thread starter TJ1978
- Start date
I gave my older brother a 10:1 gear reducer for his engine stand,he planned to rig up a sprocket & chain setup to it so he could spin the engine block over much easier,by cranking the gear reducer with a crank...don't know if he ever went thru with the conversion though...
I recall seeing an engine stand a guy rigged up with a worm gear winch the same way to make flipping the block over a lot less hard..
This photo shows a typical boat winch being used,but a worm gear one has three advantages,it wont let the load "reverse" when you stop cranking,it has a lower gear reduction,and is much easier to use,no fumbling with the ratchet on the boat type winch..
They sell engine stands with built in rotators,Eastwood and Sunnex are two brands I've seen with them..
I recall seeing an engine stand a guy rigged up with a worm gear winch the same way to make flipping the block over a lot less hard..
This photo shows a typical boat winch being used,but a worm gear one has three advantages,it wont let the load "reverse" when you stop cranking,it has a lower gear reduction,and is much easier to use,no fumbling with the ratchet on the boat type winch..
They sell engine stands with built in rotators,Eastwood and Sunnex are two brands I've seen with them..
I put some axle grease on the stand’s rotating assembly. That helps a lot.
Will this work to get sprocket off the crank? I lined up the dots 12 and 6 before pulling off.
https://www.harborfreight.com/three-jaw-puller-set-3-pc-63953.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/three-jaw-puller-set-3-pc-63953.html
I believe so. Just make sure you’re not messing up the threads inside the crankshaft.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
The idea is right. But don't but those piles of shit.
Cheap pullers are the worst. They are flimsy, don't hold their bite, the bolts on the arms come loose.
Just a terrible representation of a tool.
Cheap pullers are the worst. They are flimsy, don't hold their bite, the bolts on the arms come loose.
Just a terrible representation of a tool.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Get a regular cam gear puller so you don't mess up your bolt threads.
https://www.toolsource.com/camshaft-tools-c-1321_139_142/cam-gear-puller-p-109983.html
https://www.toolsource.com/camshaft-tools-c-1321_139_142/cam-gear-puller-p-109983.html
I forgot to add that you should keep in mind that you need to reinstall one without a hammer.
I think there are combo puller/installer tools that thread into the crankshaft.
I think there are combo puller/installer tools that thread into the crankshaft.
Other Options?
beags86
Eastbound and Down
I Do them with with soft mallet. May not be "right" but it will get you by.
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Beat you to it. Posted above
I've used a 3 jaw puller on the crank gear with no problems,usually they are not that tight a press fit,if you warm the gear up first a little they often come off easily...
I had a few that were stubborn and had no decent puller,I just used a sharp cold chisel on the crank gear,put it right over the keyway..the gear is pretty hard & brittle ,it didn't take much of a smack with the hammer to crack it..once it cracked,I pulled it off by hand..
To install the gear I would do a few different things--one I heated up on top of the wood stove in my garage awhile and used welding gloves to shove it on,it went all the way on easily..
On another timing chain job,I just used a piece of pipe just big enough inside to fit over the crank and put a block of wood between the pipe and the mallet..didn't have to pound on it very hard at all to drive it all the way on..hard taps was all it took..
I had a few that were stubborn and had no decent puller,I just used a sharp cold chisel on the crank gear,put it right over the keyway..the gear is pretty hard & brittle ,it didn't take much of a smack with the hammer to crack it..once it cracked,I pulled it off by hand..
To install the gear I would do a few different things--one I heated up on top of the wood stove in my garage awhile and used welding gloves to shove it on,it went all the way on easily..
On another timing chain job,I just used a piece of pipe just big enough inside to fit over the crank and put a block of wood between the pipe and the mallet..didn't have to pound on it very hard at all to drive it all the way on..hard taps was all it took..
Neighbor had this will this work?
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Does it have jaws? It appears not.
.. at Napa
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Ask them about something called a posi lock puller.
Good for removal of balancer, but not installation of balancer.
Get a damper installer. you do not want to drive the cam crank gear or the damper on at all. Driveing on the front of the crank will damage the the thrust bearing. If the the thrust bearing fails so does your engine. Not worth it for the price of the correct tool.
You will need a piece of pipe to use damper tool for crank gear 1 3/8" id iirc
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-h...MI1_qqn9rB7gIVkxmtBh2-xg2iEAQYAyABEgLJqPD_BwE
You will need a piece of pipe to use damper tool for crank gear 1 3/8" id iirc
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-h...MI1_qqn9rB7gIVkxmtBh2-xg2iEAQYAyABEgLJqPD_BwE
Ok...
Blue loctite on the bolts? And torque is?
Blue loctite on the bolts? And torque is?
