Doing it this way is much easier and more entertaining.
CK5
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its been a while i guess ill start a build thread..
- Thread starter twoslo4five0
- Start date
Got the lowers built today, and cleaned my shop which took a while.
Lots of welding this weekend. Got the all the rear 4 link mounts and truss welded up along with the frame mounts. Front spring hangers welded in. Shackles drilled (still need to be finished smooth), front springs in and the rest of the frame boxing welded. I put my old dana 44 out of my blazer (where my 60 is now) in the front for the time being till I get the blazer stripped. I'm also going to have to get a set of custom shims as the pin is so offset on these springs that it throws the pinion way off. My thought is a zero rate milled down. Not sure on the angle yet as I need some more weight on the rig. Wheelbase right now is 131 inches but will be around 127 after adding weight and squaring in the rear axle. Anyways here are some pics.
Great update!
thank man! I have a week off in the next few weeks and that's when I'm hoping to fit the cab to the frame
weekend update. Replaced the rubber motor mounts with poly inserts. Kit came with a trans mount as well which didnt fit, but that was ok because I planned on raising the t case foot to go flat belly with the doubler. That took a lot more time than I expected but its all done now.
I had to re-tap both bolt holes on the adpter foot as they were both stripped out, so they are now 7/16s. Built the "spacer" from a piece of 2 inch .25 wall square with a piece of 1.5x.375 flat bar on top welded to it. After mock up I still needed a little bit to clear the bottom on the 203 on the belly pan so I cut 2 pieces of the 1.5 flar bar, drilled and welded in.
I think the new mount was about a inch shorter than stock which means I lifted the tcase and trans just over a inch and a half. Flatted out my motor as well but thats of as im running propane.
I cleaned and painted all the drivetrain, what a total PITA. Looks good now. Also started mocking up my rear radaitor. Still have a few more holes to drill and tap in the 203 before filtting this range box to the the doubler adapter. I think thats about it. Enjoy!
I had to re-tap both bolt holes on the adpter foot as they were both stripped out, so they are now 7/16s. Built the "spacer" from a piece of 2 inch .25 wall square with a piece of 1.5x.375 flat bar on top welded to it. After mock up I still needed a little bit to clear the bottom on the 203 on the belly pan so I cut 2 pieces of the 1.5 flar bar, drilled and welded in.
I think the new mount was about a inch shorter than stock which means I lifted the tcase and trans just over a inch and a half. Flatted out my motor as well but thats of as im running propane.
I cleaned and painted all the drivetrain, what a total PITA. Looks good now. Also started mocking up my rear radaitor. Still have a few more holes to drill and tap in the 203 before filtting this range box to the the doubler adapter. I think thats about it. Enjoy!
Back at work, kert made this up for me
Is that using a bearing or something? I cant tell.
Yes it's a bearing.
Holy wheelbase Batman! You said your running 44's?
Right now, mabye larger later all depends what I find for sale. 44s are on it right now, I will get pics tomm. Sum bitch looks huge. 6 foot 7 to the roof currently, 24 inch belly. I'm going to drop the rear 4 inches tomm, I dropped the front 2 today. Front is a ride height, rear is at full bump. Ride height should be 6'8 on 44s
I'm also into long wheelbase rigs, they are so stable on side hills, climbs and descents. They just suck for right areas well all full sizes suck for that.
My wheel base is in that area never gives me any issues.
Short wheelbases suck at everything except tight turns.
Are many people running a sliding leaf spring mount like that?
Martin
Are many people running a sliding leaf spring mount like that?
Martin
As is what? The lazy mount it like that 
, no but seriously I would have liked to french it in the frame but it was just more work than I wanted to get into, there is plenty of people running it this way. Ideally you would have a slight angle facing down to take some of the load off the bolt.
, no but seriously I would have liked to french it in the frame but it was just more work than I wanted to get into, there is plenty of people running it this way. Ideally you would have a slight angle facing down to take some of the load off the bolt.
Kert has made a few of these he said, liquid iron has be making them for years. It's kind of an experimental part for me. My pinion and was so bad, I had to loose the shackle. This gave me 4 degress. I'm still going to need a 10 degree or better shim.
I run ~118" rig on 39.5's so im not "short" by any means I would have thought given our terrain you would want to be closer to the ~120" mark for breakover in the huge rocks around here. Your in rock bouncer territory!
Dont get me wrong I love the build so far, keep it up.
"Short" is relative and the shorter the vehicle the better the breakover angle is, its about finding the right combonation for the most well rounded wheeler for what the intedneded purpose it. Knowing the eastcoast terrian well I thought that shaving a few inches would make a better performer. Josh JT512 here is running ~118-120" rig on 42's and besides needing to drop his SOG down a bit thats a winning combo for this area
oh and Autos rule
Im gonna figure out how to multi quote i swear, and im done clogging up your build thread. Do you need fenders/hood/core support for your rig? I will donate them to the cause!
