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Izzy's 81 K5 Restoration Project, Exterior Complete...

Old Paint..

looks VERY NICE dude! just a question though, why are you completely stripping all of the old paint off? Why not just wet sand with 400, then seal it, then prime and paint?

68Mudstud..
Well the old paint was cracked in so many spots deep so figured I would strip and start over... I suppose I could have done the way you mention but figured this might look a lil better... :rolleyes: plus I am no pro and dont know all the tricks of painting.. This is my first job by myself... :crazy:
 
68Mudstud..
Well the old paint was cracked in so many spots deep so figured I would strip and start over... I suppose I could have done the way you mention but figured this might look a lil better... :rolleyes: plus I am no pro and dont know all the tricks of painting.. This is my first job by myself... :crazy:
Right on man! I was just curious. i kinda figured the paint was flaking and what not. just wanted to be sure. It it's cracking and stuff, i think you did it right! ;)
 
That color looks sick, I cant wait to see the truck when its done. your doin a great job for it being your first time.:bow: good work, let me know when your done you can paint my truck.:D:D:D:D
 
How did I miss this one??!!?! SUBSCRIBED

Awsome restoration :bow: :bow:

I love the candy red :waytogo:
 
Thanks

Thanks Fellas, Well it is raining cats and dogs here so no painting going on today but I was planning on that. To day is put panels and doors back on truck and start wet sanding entire truck. I will post some photos of the dash and engine comaprtment as soon as I get the camera downloaded..
 
Hmmm the paint scheme looks a lot like Hells Angels Colors!
 
isnt a rainy day the best to paint in? i mean no dust in the air and stuff?


Probably so, but directions say no more than 80% humidity.. When its raining I would say thats 100% lol :wink1:

Here is the dash

DSC01177.jpg


And the engine area..

DSC01178-1.jpg


DSC01179.jpg


DSC01180.jpg


Well reconstruction has been taking place all day today so far.. then wet sanding begins... More to follow..
 
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isnt a rainy day the best to paint in? i mean no dust in the air and stuff?

It depends on how much of a temp change there is. BC/CC depending on the brand is designed to be sparyed at a temp. The CC has a ratio that you reduce it by depending on the temp as well. If it's to cold it's not a good idea to spary.
 
It depends on how much of a temp change there is. BC/CC depending on the brand is designed to be sparyed at a temp. The CC has a ratio that you reduce it by depending on the temp as well. If it's to cold it's not a good idea to spary.
I know there is different speeds of hardener depending on what brand of paint you use... But, you should always use the exact amount of reducer and hardener.
 
How hard was it to take the windows out of the top? I want to repaint my top sometime next year and yours looks like it turned out awesome.

Great restoration you've got going here. Your floorboards look like mine did. Anyway, can't wait to see what the finished paint looks like. Subscribed!
 
Rear topper Glass

How hard was it to take the windows out of the top? I want to repaint my top sometime next year and yours looks like it turned out awesome.

The windows in the top are a snap... What you need to do is pull out the center piece of the window strip. On the crome strip its easy to find just find the crome clip, pop that out with a screw driver and then take your screw driver and pry out the middle locking rubber strip. Once you get that out take a razor and run around the the insdie ledge of the rubber weather stripping. Get a heat gun and heat the remaining rubber/glass and push.. Should come right out. At least it did for me.. :laugh: front windshield, Yeah well got a qoute for 220.00 bucks replaced.. I was not so fortunate.. LOL :haha::haha: Hope that helps you later.. Good Luck.
 
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Do they pop back in just as easily? Or do they have to be resealed?
 
Temp

It depends on how much of a temp change there is. BC/CC depending on the brand is designed to be sparyed at a temp. The CC has a ratio that you reduce it by depending on the temp as well. If it's to cold it's not a good idea to spary.

Exactly Cuervo.... That is why I am trying to get this ready for paint by Saturday. The temp is supposed to be between 70 and 80 just right for my reducer... <Crosses Fingers> :o We will see.....:rolleyes:
 
Rear windows..

Do they pop back in just as easily? Or do they have to be resealed?

Not sure I have not gotten that far yet... If you follow my last post your gonna have to buy new rubber all around. My plan is to take it to the guy that is installing the windshield and see how much more to install the back windows is gonna cost..:crazy: I would rather a pro do it that way I know it is done right and wont leak... ;)
 
How hard was it to take the windows out of the top? I want to repaint my top sometime next year and yours looks like it turned out awesome.

Great restoration you've got going here. Your floorboards look like mine did. Anyway, can't wait to see what the finished paint looks like. Subscribed!

As posted twice before :doah:I should get tech item for this!:rolleyes:

Side Window change 101
The seals are two part the rubber and a rubber insert locking rubber. I believe the main seal is like $99.00

Here is how I did my window change it was easy to do. You will need two flat head screw drivers and spray bottle of soapy water. A very small flat head to reinstall lock rubber. *if you have a window install tool works best about $5.00 for it. Looks like a pick with a pigs tail end.

1.) looking at window from outside you will see a little metal clip in the middle of rubber at the bottom. Take a small screw driver and pop that out.

2.) You will now see a small gap between the inner rubber strip. Take one end of it and pull it out in a lifting manor (away from truck).

3.) Now you will need two flat head screw drivers. Start a few inches from the lower rear corner and insert one screw driver in under the lip of the metal frame. Next spray some soapy liquid on rubber and insert other screw driver and work it around to lift the frame/glass out of rubber. *works best going to top.

4.) Once you get the rear upper corner out it is a breeze. Keep going till you have most of the top out of rubber. At this point you can pull the frame/glass out.

5.) I took the seals out and cleaned them in warm water to get crude and old black goop off. I used a butter knife to get it clean (DO NOT LET YOUR WIFE SEE YOU DO THIS). :mad: :bow:

6.) After they were dry I put a thin bead of black RTV on the fiberglass lip and placed rubber onto it.

7.) I then placed the lip of the frame/glass in to the front corner of rubber and started to wards the rear. Using the screw driver to pop the outer lip out at the rear and worked on up and over to toward the front. *you will need the soapy liquid from time to time.

8.) Once you have it in you will take the thin rubber piece that you pulled in step 2. Start in the middle bottom and insert it into the gap in the rubber *I used a small flat head to push the upper edge down into channel. The best way to describe this motion is kind of like a wrist flick or reverse knock.

9.) Now if you did every thing right you should have a little extra locking rubber when you get to bottom *(stretches when you pull it). Cut this as close to the other end as you can (about 1/4 inch).

10.) Now you will replace the metal clip pull both ends out just so you can slide them into the clip. Now press it into the grove.
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