Where the pictures of the K30?
CK5
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Jimmy B. ( parts from Bruiser)
- Thread starter 6872xtc
- Start date
Using a proven wheeling truck with another driving truck, plus more parts.
Ya know, as I was typing that, I thought that I should have taken some pictures. I parked right next to it, but both were nosed up to his shop.
Yes, I failed.... (beat ya to that statement!)
Hey, beat yourself...
So I finally got a good payoff for all of the work!!!
Got it to BB19, even got there a day early. Went out and played on Metal Masher, pulled the front driveshaft apart while goosing it in double low, then had an old tired MTR start leaking just after that.
Then it ran the next 2 days on trails without any real problems!!!
I got my son to drive Saturday and we screwed around to really flex things in the wedgie. Just a couple of tweaks here and there. More slip in the front driveshaft, or possibly a limit strap, just tweak the front of the rear wheel well opening to eliminate the rub.
We never touched the front bumper, knocked the rear twice on the right, once on the left. We tried some things that I hadn't planned on.
We drained some windshield washer fluid out by standing it on the tail a couple of times! It will gravity flow out through the nozzles, down the cowl, to the rockers onto the rear tires...
The PF4 did well honestly, it doesn't play well with a CB, it dies... but it worked well in spite of that. I plan on talking to Edelbrock about that.
I can adjust the idle easily if needed for double low stuff. No input for the A/C is not optimum.
I even leaned it out some after running down the interstate and not hearing any issues.
Of course. I found things that I want and need to do in the future.
I got my son and his girlfriend to come down to Moab and play too!
It drove home just fine! Intermittent wipers going, and just 68* according to the thermometer in the mirror. It was at 97* yesterday.
Got it to BB19, even got there a day early. Went out and played on Metal Masher, pulled the front driveshaft apart while goosing it in double low, then had an old tired MTR start leaking just after that.
Then it ran the next 2 days on trails without any real problems!!!
I got my son to drive Saturday and we screwed around to really flex things in the wedgie. Just a couple of tweaks here and there. More slip in the front driveshaft, or possibly a limit strap, just tweak the front of the rear wheel well opening to eliminate the rub.
We never touched the front bumper, knocked the rear twice on the right, once on the left. We tried some things that I hadn't planned on.
We drained some windshield washer fluid out by standing it on the tail a couple of times! It will gravity flow out through the nozzles, down the cowl, to the rockers onto the rear tires...
The PF4 did well honestly, it doesn't play well with a CB, it dies... but it worked well in spite of that. I plan on talking to Edelbrock about that.
I can adjust the idle easily if needed for double low stuff. No input for the A/C is not optimum.
I even leaned it out some after running down the interstate and not hearing any issues.
Of course. I found things that I want and need to do in the future.
I got my son and his girlfriend to come down to Moab and play too!
It drove home just fine! Intermittent wipers going, and just 68* according to the thermometer in the mirror. It was at 97* yesterday.
Very happy to hear this, was going to ask you how it worked out but figured you would post up.
Does the BF4 not self-tune?
If you pulled front shaft apart on flat ground goosing the throttle, you definitely need a longer front shaft. I would only limit strap it if you HAVE to do a trail run before you can get it redone.
If you pulled front shaft apart on flat ground goosing the throttle, you definitely need a longer front shaft. I would only limit strap it if you HAVE to do a trail run before you can get it redone.
Yes, it self tunes. But the user tells it what AFR to run at in the different operating ranges. And there are other things that the user can input as well. It isn't just a system that only has 3 adjustments.
And I had a limit strap on it for 2 days, and never had another issue, cuz we didn't hit the throttle hard enough in double low, while it was nosed up and drooped out. It's just fine on flat ground there, pooky...
Hey, all you said was that you pulled the driveshaft apart goosing it. Being at full suspension droop is a pretty key detail to leave out there, dooky.....
I'm just curious why you aren't letting the programming pick the AFR and run with it?
I'm just curious why you aren't letting the programming pick the AFR and run with it?
It has the AFR defaults, but if you try different settings, you can find more power, or mileage, or help out things if your combination needs some attention.
@Bent77 said that he gained some mileage with his after he leaned it out on his way to BB19.
I don't believe that any system will tune for maximum power, perfect driveability and mileage. But maybe I am senile...
Are you using some sort of resource to pick AFR numbers?
I'm asking all these questions because I could change AFR targets but I don't really know where to begin and I was hoping you could share some of your wisdom. That's what you old hot rodders are supposed to do for us young bloods.
I'm asking all these questions because I could change AFR targets but I don't really know where to begin and I was hoping you could share some of your wisdom. That's what you old hot rodders are supposed to do for us young bloods.
It's a little if past experience based on what has been found by myself and LOTS of others. Listening to the engine, the behavior of it, water temperatures and I normally smell the exhaust at idle. Reading the spark plugs and looking at the inside of the tailpipe can help too.
If the spark plugs and tailpipes are dark/ black, lean it out some, see how it runs.
Too lean or rich at idle smells bad in 2 different ways, and gives 2 different styles of hesitation or stumbling. I don't really know how to describe the differences. Lean seems to burn my eyes first, rich gets to my lungs first.
Too lean down the road will cause detonation and hotter water temperatures. Lean is mean, but can also melt stuff!
Look for light tan on the plugs, gray with a hint of tan in the tailpipe.
Hopefully others will chime in, and correct me if I am wrong.
If the spark plugs and tailpipes are dark/ black, lean it out some, see how it runs.
Too lean or rich at idle smells bad in 2 different ways, and gives 2 different styles of hesitation or stumbling. I don't really know how to describe the differences. Lean seems to burn my eyes first, rich gets to my lungs first.
Too lean down the road will cause detonation and hotter water temperatures. Lean is mean, but can also melt stuff!
Look for light tan on the plugs, gray with a hint of tan in the tailpipe.
Hopefully others will chime in, and correct me if I am wrong.
I may need you to come sniff my exhaust. 
Get Bent...
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Get Bent...
He is just south of Mrk5...
Perfect positioning then!
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Isn't 14.7 to 1 the target?
Yes, but that doesn't necessarily work in every situation. I would bet that most engines won't respond well from idle if they were at 14.7. The change in airflow cracking the throttle would be too abrupt. The efficiency of the engine overall can affect what works while still being safe to run. That's why I want to sneak up on it, and being out of town, in temperatures in the upper nineties wasn't a situation where I felt safe getting too aggressive in the tune.
I still kinda had the new build skepticism. So not melting anything was a priority.
Now I can check things, try more adjustments, check some more.
The only AFR I've tried messing with is the idle and it didn't like being leaned out. Ended up back at the default and it idles much better. Now I guess I'm a little reluctant to mess with it.
