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Just a few wires left...

Sorry Clod_King,

I finally got back to work after being laid off for 8 months. I don't have much free time to visit the CK5 board until the weekends.:smile1:

dave w
 
Same job, different group of people. The company downsized, and re-organized the people. The take home pay is 15% less ... but that is better than unemployment money.:D

dave w
 
Yeah, you're right. Pogie is no good. Plus I found I got lazy while I was on it. Very little drive to do much, if anything at all.
 
Ok,
Put a Carb / HEI distributor on it, then carefully remove the EFI stuff ... spend time learning / doing an EFI system bench test ... then spend time learning / doing a data log of the bench test EFI system.

Most of all be patient with yourself ... I've spent years and years getting to where I am. Did I get frustrated:mad: along the way ... YES. Did I waste time and money learning ... YES.:crazy: Have my EFI experiences paid me back ... YES:smile1:

dave w
 
I'm gonna go through a few more tests... I don't want to back down from this. I'm kind of stubborn.

Plus I have the next four days off, so I have a bunch of time to dabble with it.
 
If I were going to convert to carb / hei ... I would use the carb with electric choke and no mixture control solenoid ... I would use the HEI distributor with vacuum advance

The intake is a touch of a headache ... the two center bolts are at a different angle. The low dollar method is to mill the holes bigger.

dave w
 
I did not know that about the intake... I'll have to look into it.

I redid the intake today. Replaced all the gaskets and seals, and the engine still doesn't run properly... I am gonna cleanup the other spark plug set I have, and try that out..

The engine will catch on one cylinder it sounds like. I'll get a quick little explosion at a consistant space. All the spark plugs are wet with fuel... I am gonna try those cleaned up plugs. I hope to god the engine will run with those.
 
When I replace a SBC intake, I don't use the molded rubber end seals. I use a 1/4" ~ 3/8 bead of High Temp RTV Silicone. I let the RTV sink (about 15 minutes) before I place the intake on the engine. I often use a real thin smear of High Temp RTV Silicone around the water and intake ports on both sides of the gasket. I usually let the RTV set for 24 hours before I start the engine. I also use a torque wrench several times on each of the bolts! I also follow the torque sequence.

dave w
 
I most definately used RTV on the block ends. But I did not put any around the water jackets... I was thinking of not running the engine until today (to give it 24 hours) but my curiosity got the best of me. It didn't start anyways, but I still tried.
 
I went to visit a mechanic that works out of his garage around the corner from me. He told me to check every wire under the hood with an ohm meter. I am still in the procces of checking them, but have come across something funny...

Does the computer ground out the injectors to complete the circuit and make the injectors open and close, or does power come from the computer?

I read somewhere that the injectors always have power, and that the computer is connected to the ground wire, and essentially completes the circuit to make the injector squirt. Am I wrong here??
 
Clod_King said:
I read somewhere that the injectors always have power, and that the computer is connected to the ground wire, and essentially completes the circuit to make the injector squirt. Am I wrong here??
Click to expand...

That is correct; The injectors always have power _ the ECM will turn on/off the injectors by pulsing the ground to the injectors.

dave w
 
Okay, because the wire going from the injectors to the ECM check out fine, but the wires going to the power source are giving me a reading to the ground...

I am gonna check that out tomorrow.
 
Be sure to check the power wires to the injectors without being plugged onto the injectors.

dave w
 
I checked everything unplugged. I think I have to go through my wire loom. I found a couple stripped wires already, so maybe this one is stripped somewhere too.
 
I just hooked up that pink/black wire to a temporary constant power source (the junction on the firewall). It's fused though, so the parts are still protected.

The truck still won't run that long. Turn it on, and then it settles and dies. It's drawn out or anything like that. It just sort of shuts off. I am going to check for anymore grounded leads through the firewall...
 
Okay, so I found two wires that do not line up with my schematic, and they don't line up with the wire naming in the Binder Bulliten write up either.

It's two grounds that are reversed. One goes to D2 for sure, and I think the other one is A11. I just don't know for sure about the A11. The schematic is outside in the truck...

Is there a way to get the wires out of those ECM plugs?? I am getting one to practise on from the scrap yard saturday.
 
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