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K10: Built HP60/241-205 Doubler/tons of tube

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Got a little done this morning...

I swapped out my 4wd box as a core for a rebuilt 2wd box. Then I spent an hour trying to get the freaking cap off the box to put my hydro cap from DIY4X in. Eventually got it out but screwed up the o-ring so I'll have to pick up a new o-ring this week before I can put the new hydro cap on and get it bolted on the frame.

Decided to put the shafts in, shave the cover to match the shave job on the housing and roll the 14 bolt under the truck just to feel like I accomplished something today after fighting the steering box cap.

I need to pick up some new u-bolts but it's in place.

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Oh, I forgot I put a new cap and rotor on last night too. When i pulled the TC out the engine rocked back on the mounts and hit the distributor cap on the firewall and jacked it up.
I had to find TDC on 1 and get it all set back in time so hopefully it'll fire up and I can get it dialed in once I get the steering box plumbed back up.
 
With an extra set of hands from my dad we got the new 2wd steering box on the frame. I fought the stupid end cap yesterday and finally got it out but messed up the o-ring so I got a new one today along with some plugs and got the DIY4X cap put in place. I'll pull the top cap and drill/tap it sometime when I'm ready to go hydro assist but wanted the end cap in place ready to go.

I got new grade 8 bolts to put the box on and got them just long enough to poke through the box and put some nuts on the ends after it was all tight and in place.
Thinking jam-nut type setup to keep the bolts tight. I put some lines with a sharpie on the ends of everything too so I'll check them periodically and see if it seems to make a difference.

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I run the pinch nuts on the outside of my box like that as well. First torque the bolts to the box to ensure that it is on there tight enough. Then add the pinch nuts that way they just act as a lock to prevent the bolts from loosening. I used some red model paint for my torque checks. One on each nut and one stripe from the box to the frame so I can easily verified it hasnt loosened.

Looks good! :waytogo:
 
munepit said:
I was thinking the same thing!!! I want to wheel with you somethime Avery!!! Rig is looking awesome!
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You're more than welcome to come along sometime. We get out and about throughout the summer. Once my truck is done I'm going to head up to a trail called Bald to give it a shakedown run. It's an easy little trail with some good views at the top. Might be a good trip to bring the big suburban along.
 
Kind of a cool update for me tonight. What started it all is finally bolted under the truck.
Looks like the only interference I'm going to have is with my headers but that's fine I've kind of wanted to ditch them lately, they leak and just aren't necessary on a truck like this.
I'll research some decent stock manifolds and find a set to put back on.

Look at that pinion up out of the way! :)

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That high pinion is pretty sweet! I can sure tell the difference between that and my Dodge 60, which I think is even a degree lower than a Chevy.
 
Got a decent amount of work done today for having to stop at lunch and get cleaned up to go to a graduation party this afternoon.

First off, kind of a biggie is I got the truck fired back up for the first time since it was moved into the driveway from the side of the house. I was concerned about my red top since I flat out killed it on the last trip as well as the re-timing I had to do when I put the new cap/rotor on last week. I've been bringing the red top back to life with my charger this last week as I've been working on the truck and I guess everything is good because after about 20 seconds of cranking on and off with a few pumps of the pedal it fired right up. Ran pretty good too.
Once I get the drivetrain and exhaust back in I'll run it and get the timing all dialed in.

I got the new steering box all plumbed up and centered and got the new pitman arm on, it's going to be REALLY tight on the steering. Might be able to get away with a little trim on the factory crossmember but if not I'll have to go with an aftermarket crossmember.

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I also got the knuckles all put on and setup. I'm not sure what the specs are for setting the pre-load with springless arms but I got it tight enough that there's some drag when turning side to side and there's zero play in any other direction and locked it down. If that's wrong someone pipe in and I'll change it.
Got everything greased up too, the sunken grease zerks worked great.

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Hoping to get a big push on the truck this week and get some stuff knocked out. On the agenda is pulling the headers, getting the steering 100% finished and in place, bolting down the rear end with new upper shock mounts and get the doubler linkage wrapped up by the end of this coming weekend.

Tonight I swapped out all the bolts mating my range box to my adapter for some longer tap bolts and added a lock washer and nut on the back side. Nothing major but this way it's not relying on the aluminum threads alone to hold it together, it's sandwiched around it. It was surprisingly hard to find metric tap bolts locally but my dad found some while he was out and about after my two major suppliers I normally use didn't have any on hand.

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Next I started mocking up the steering. Surprisingly because of the bent draglink I think I'm going to luck out and be ok. I'm definitely going to have to limit up travel but I'm ok with that for now. Might need a slight trim on the stock engine crossmember so the draglink doesn't make contact but I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

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Tomorrow night I'm going to get the steering knocked out. I need to trim the tubing, weld in the inserts and get it all adjusted so it's in the ballpark. I'm diggin' the reverse high steer though, up and out of the way for good peace of mind. Some people had mentioned clearance issues doing this with a high pinion axle but it's fine. I can fit my finger between the housing and the tie-rod.
 
Will the front pinion try to point up when you get on the gas like it does on the rear axle, or is the front pinion rotating the other way so it will point down when you get on the gas? I was just thinking that if it moved upwards it could possibly hit the tie rod. Probably not though.

Impressive build for sure! :bow: Can't wait to see how all this turns out.
 
Did you have a problem with lining up the countersunk holes on the d60 cover? Mine has really thick paint on it and it's kind of a PITA to line up
 
Looks like your headers might get in the way of your tie rod when flexed out. But otherwise looks good :waytogo:
I was skeptical about the blue but I like how it came out!
 
andyblack said:
Will the front pinion try to point up when you get on the gas like it does on the rear axle, or is the front pinion rotating the other way so it will point down when you get on the gas? I was just thinking that if it moved upwards it could possibly hit the tie rod. Probably not though.

Impressive build for sure! :bow: Can't wait to see how all this turns out.
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The knuckles with the steering arms are part of the housing in that regard so if the housing deflects the arms and tie rod would deflect with it. The gap between the housing and the tie rod will stay the same no matter what.

howdiy said:
Did you have a problem with lining up the countersunk holes on the d60 cover? Mine has really thick paint on it and it's kind of a PITA to line up
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My 60 cover went on very snug. I had to drill out the holes on my 14 bolt cover though, they had no chance of fitting. That's my only complaint about ruffstuff is the tolerances are just too tight and stuff fights you. I'll still buy from him I just know I'm going to have to massage stuff now and then.

Chevy305 said:
Looks like your headers might get in the way of your tie rod when flexed out. But otherwise looks good :waytogo:
I was skeptical about the blue but I like how it came out!
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The headers are going. I'm on the lookout for stock rear exit manifolds or some shorter headers. I would have major driveshaft clearance issues the way its run right now.
 
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