NOPE, pissed now.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
K10: Built HP60/241-205 Doubler/tons of tube
- Thread starter Avery4jc
- Start date
NOPE, pissed now.
I like hub caps
A cloyes setup I found on summit.
As for all the solenoid talk I've thought about it before but for now I'm more worried about getting things running and back out on the trail before the snow comes. My new headers burned the power wire a little so I want to re route it, otherwise I wouldn't even be messing with it right now.
If you are rerouting even just one wire, now is the time to do it. It is a stupid simple modification.
Martin
Martin
please stop calling it the ford solenoid mod... it is a slave solenoid...
Parts showed up while I was at work today. New water pump, gaskets, timing set, spark plug wire insulators and a compression tester.
I dropped the big radiator off at the shop down the street from us today and they're going to boil/pressure test it and have it ready to go by tomorrow.
Should make decent progress this weekend and hopefully get to the bottom of this whole deal.
I dropped the big radiator off at the shop down the street from us today and they're going to boil/pressure test it and have it ready to go by tomorrow.
Should make decent progress this weekend and hopefully get to the bottom of this whole deal.
I do the slave solenoid on every Chevy I own, one of the first things I do.
So if I go into napa and tell them I need a slave solenoid I will get the right part? Seems I always tell them I need a ford starter solenoid and the excellent parts people at napa always give me just the one I want. Thus I will call it a ford solenoid just for my own stupidity.
Parts showed up while I was at work today. New water pump, gaskets, timing set, spark plug wire insulators and a compression tester.
I dropped the big radiator off at the shop down the street from us today and they're going to boil/pressure test it and have it ready to go by tomorrow.
Should make decent progress this weekend and hopefully get to the bottom of this whole deal.
You couldn't get those gaskets cheaper buy buying felpro ones from a parts store? I rarely use summit or jegs unless it is only speed parts.
Possibly but their prices are good and its usually about $10 or so to ship it to my door so it's worth it. I can get exactly what I want and don't have to drive all over town to find it at 5 different stores.
it's just a continuous duty solenoid... slave solenoid is how it functions in the DC system...
there are VASTLY better spec'd ones than a "ford solenoid".... what amperage you want to handle? various companies from rodgers/white to cole hersee to raritan, etc all offer various units... you can spend anywhere from $20 on a cheap cole hersee ford low amp one, or you can spend over a c-note on a high amp white/rodgers, etc..
just sayin...
Or you can just tell the parts guy you want a Ford solenoid, he hands it to you, you install it, it works.
Martin
Martin
or you could actually learn about the products your installing... 
K5 Jess
1/2 ton status
or you could actually learn about the products your installing...
http:// http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mVgXGw_XhRQ&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Just make sure you double check you are given a + actuated one and not negative. Made that mistake on my plow truck once.
Can't we all just get along?!?!? 
Ok back to the build thread...
I had to go buy a small puller tonight because my puller wouldn't fit between the face of the block and the back of the crank gear. So after I got back I pulled the gear off, cleaned stuff up and got the new timing set put on. It's quite a bit tighter than the one that came off.
Is it easiest to loosen the bolts on the oil pan and lower the front lip of it then put the timing cover on then put the pan back up? I did a dry run with it tonight and it seems like the oil pan seal is going to fight me a lot to get it into the little groove on the bottom of the timing cover.
Also should I use rtv with the gasket? That's what was on there before but I didn't know if that was right.
Oh and I picked up the radiator today during my lunch break. They boiled it, tested it for leaks and got it all cleaned up. He said it's a nice radiator without having the plastic tanks and should work well compared to my little two core I currently run.
Ok back to the build thread...
I had to go buy a small puller tonight because my puller wouldn't fit between the face of the block and the back of the crank gear. So after I got back I pulled the gear off, cleaned stuff up and got the new timing set put on. It's quite a bit tighter than the one that came off.
Is it easiest to loosen the bolts on the oil pan and lower the front lip of it then put the timing cover on then put the pan back up? I did a dry run with it tonight and it seems like the oil pan seal is going to fight me a lot to get it into the little groove on the bottom of the timing cover.
Also should I use rtv with the gasket? That's what was on there before but I didn't know if that was right.
Oh and I picked up the radiator today during my lunch break. They boiled it, tested it for leaks and got it all cleaned up. He said it's a nice radiator without having the plastic tanks and should work well compared to my little two core I currently run.
Can't we all just get along?!?!?
Is it easiest to loosen the bolts on the oil pan and lower the front lip of it then put the timing cover on then put the pan back up? I did a dry run with it tonight and it seems like the oil pan seal is going to fight me a lot to get it into the little groove on the bottom of the timing cover.
Also should I use rtv with the gasket? That's what was on there before but I didn't know if that was right.
That's what I would do, as far as the pan goes.
I don't think you will need the RTV.
