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K10: Built HP60/241-205 Doubler/tons of tube

Avery,

A set of Stage-8 locking header bolts and a good quality set of header gaskets would solve all your leaking issues. :waytogo:

Conceptually they are dirt simple... A long teardrop lockwasher slips over the bolt head and touches the header tube, and a c-clip holds the lock washer in place. Basically, it allows you to make the header bolts snug but not overtight... And as soon as the bolt tries to loosen, the washer hits the header tube and prevents any movement.

A bit pricey, but effective.

-G

I've seen those before, cool setup.

Aluminum header gaskets ftw ;)

The guy I got these from suggested I just use a tiny thin layer of black rtv on them. He said he's used these gasketless sanderson headers in the past and thats all he's needed. Any thoughts on just using rtv?
 
I've seen those before, cool setup.



The guy I got these from suggested I just use a tiny thin layer of black rtv on them. He said he's used these gasketless sanderson headers in the past and thats all he's needed. Any thoughts on just using rtv?

I have seen it done on cast iron but never on tube headers before....I would go with the aluminum gaskets, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PHP-66011/ or these ---> http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/gask...ader-gasket-1-63-round-port-sb-chevy-2pk.html Edit..... Those Sandersons look TOUGH!
 
Keep in mind though guys these are designed to be gasketless headers, I was just asking about the rtv because that's what the guy said he used.
 
Keep in mind though guys these are designed to be gasketless headers, I was just asking about the rtv because that's what the guy said he used.
if they are supposed to be gasketless, I wouldn't use anything, maybe a thin spary of copper gasket, or a wipe of grease to make it slide into place while torquing it down.
 
Well it was 109* today... yes, 109*, freakin' hate summer. BUT I still managed to get a little done before calling it quits. I got the brakes on the driver's side then went to put the passenger side hub on and then it hit me...

There was a metal "shim" that fit between the knuckle and the caliper bracket that I wasn't sure about but it was there and it fit and assuming it was because I have never put a Ford 60 together I just went with it (note I bought this axle in parts, I never did the dissassembly on it). But for some reason when I was getting started on the passenger side it hit me that it was a tapered shim that complimented the tapered kingpin bushings that were in this axle from the PO. I had obviously replaced the kingpin bushings with new stock ones but didn't realize these shims went with those bushings.

Soooo, I got to put the passenger side together then tear the driver's side apart back to the knuckle and pull the stupid shim out then put it back together. At least I caught it now and not later. :)

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Ya good thing you caught it. You could have taken a bus full of nuns out!
Plus, now you can do a trail fix if need be real quick.(hopefully not)
109 is stupid hot
 
Sadly no work on the k10 tonight. I sprung a leak in the plastic tank on the radiator on the dodge so I had to address that ASAP since it's my daily driver. Probably could have lasted until this weekend as it was a slow drip and only when it was running but we're going camping Saturday and Sunday so tonight it was.
That was $300 I wasn't planning on spending, at least we're nearing the end of the k10 build for this season.
 
A tube of aluma flake wouldnt work??

From what I can tell it was the original radiator (found the Chrystler badges on the lower part of it) so it was probably on it's way out and I just now noticed it drip. It was leaking right in the middle on the passenger side where the tank met the actual radiator.
I just didn't want to mess with it to be honest. I have a lot of places to go this summer and I don't want to worry.



Hubs are in! Man these are nice. Well worth the money for anyone out there on the fence about the price. The all metal construction and fit/finish is perfect. The knob is so smooth and fits in the outer ring like a glove. There's even a brass bushing that the gear on the axle shaft rides on to engage smoothly into the outer gear that's locked in the hub. Good stuff!


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Nice. I am planning on a set when I get around to putting my 35 spline outers in.

Martin
 
I'm real interested in seeing how those hubs hold up. Have you heard of anyone with a broken one yet? I dont know anyone who has them.

BTW, where did you get your spicer joints from? and what about the snap rings. I can't find any spicer joints localy.
 
How many miles have you put on your Camaro in the past five years?

Martin
 
I'm real interested in seeing how those hubs hold up. Have you heard of anyone with a broken one yet? I dont know anyone who has them.

BTW, where did you get your spicer joints from? and what about the snap rings. I can't find any spicer joints localy.

Nope I haven't heard of any breakage yet. A select group of what sounded like koh/pirate guys have been testing them with good results.

Joints and shafts came from a vendor on pirate called alljeep. Great guy and great prices. Snap rings came from a local place.
 
Nice hubs and awesome build, I have a set of those hubs on their way as well, still need 35 spline outers though, kinda put the carriage
before the horse on that one, but wanted to take advantage of the "introductory" pricing some vendors are having on them
 
Nice hubs and awesome build, I have a set of those hubs on their way as well, still need 35 spline outers though, kinda put the carriage
before the horse on that one, but wanted to take advantage of the "introductory" pricing some vendors are having on them

I hear ya'. I would have bought them even if I wasn't ready yet too. I just lucked out that it was good timing and I was ready for them when they hit the shelves.
 

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