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K10: Built HP60/241-205 Doubler/tons of tube

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Well I said I'd take a break from this thing and I made it two weeks I guess is all it's been but I just can't take it anymore so I'm back on it...

Picked up a big 4 core radiator, stock fan and fan shroud from chevysmithz71 and a quadrajet from Frizzlefry after church today so I have some stuff to work with when this all goes back together.

Pulled the radiator and everything off the front of the engine. I don't have a puller so I'm going to borrow one and keep making progress this week at night. Kind of hoping the chain is all jacked up at this point so at least I know what needs to be fixed to get it back running.

Also I've wanted to run new lines for the transmission cooler for a while so it's a good time to do it. I'm thinking of ditching the mechanical fuel pump while I'm in here and putting an electric one back by the fuel cell with a regulator up by the carb. Thoughts on this? I figure it's easier to replace on the trail and as long as I'm running new fuel lines I'd rather do it once and not have to do it again if I need more pressure down the road.
I'll replace the water pump and whatever else I run across during all this as preventative maintenance too.

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A homemade puller is pretty simple to make, but they are cheap to own a real one as well.

Martin
 
Autozone and Advanced rent the harmonic balancer puller free (just have to put the deposit on your credit card.) When you rent it make sure you get the puller and installer tool. Do not hammer the balancer back on!!!
 
chevysmithz71 said:
Next time:waytogo:
Did you ever get it off?? Chain??
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Doing it tonight. I'm going to rent a puller so I can get it apart and then put together a summit order and put their puller/install kit on the order. It'd be nice to have one on hand for future stuff.
 
Well I was about to post that it looks like the timing chain jumped a tooth but now that I'm sitting here looking at it I guess it hasn't. When the gears turn it'll line both of them back up.

Not sure what to check now. They are really loose though so I guess I'll replace them and go from there...

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get a nice coyles double roller. It will last much longer and are cheap. The block number is on the back of the engine where the trans bolts to the engine. Or the pad that sticks out on the front on the passanger side will decode what it is and where is came from.
 
80' 427 said:
get a nice coyles double roller. It will last much longer and are cheap. The block number is on the back of the engine where the trans bolts to the engine. Or the pad that sticks out on the front on the passanger side will decode what it is and where is came from.
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I had posted something else because my brain was melted in the 110* heat and I'm pretty sure that's what you are responding to. I'll replace it since I'm in here but now that I'm looking at it they should line up when it turns over...
 
Do you really think its worth replacing? looks fine to me for an old tired engine. I didnt hear any clicking or chattering when we were in the engine bay, the norm for an old chain. Save the money and time and go 5.3:)
 
It jumped once, it will again. Get a stock one if you are saving coin but don't put it back together that way.
 
that things got some pretty serious slop.... bet your timing mark jumps around...
 
80' 427 said:
It jumped once, it will again. Get a stock one if you are saving coin but don't put it back together that way.
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I don't think it did, look at the picture I posted.


ryoken said:
that things got some pretty serious slop.... bet your timing mark jumps around...
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Yeah it wanders around a little bit but it should run well enough. This is getting ridiculous! Not even sure what to check now.
 
chevysmithz71 said:
Do you really think its worth replacing? looks fine to me for an old tired engine. I didnt hear any clicking or chattering when we were in the engine bay, the norm for an old chain. Save the money and time and go 5.3:)
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Yeah I know, I keep joking around about going with a 5.3 but at this point I just want to know what's wrong with this one. It's a stupid simple old engine, there can't be that much to check.
 
Avery4jc said:
I don't think it did, look at the picture I posted.




Yeah it wanders around a little bit but it should run well enough. This is getting ridiculous! Not even sure what to check now.
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what's it's prob again? just lack of power? I diagnose boat motor issues all day, every day...
 
ryoken said:
what's it's prob again? just lack of power? I diagnose boat motor issues all day, every day...
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Incredibly hard to get running. It fires as it turns over every time but as soon as you let off the starter it dies. Once you mess with it enough and get the throttle set just right and get it to stay alive it won't idle worth a crap.
Under load it backfires through the carb, when you shut it off it backfires out the exhaust and you can hear the engine turn over one more time (like it's dieseling).
Oh and on top of it all on what has to be a side effect of what's causing the above problems it has zero power. With 5.38's and 40's I can hardly hold it in OD and even 3rd feels gutless.

It happened instantly which is why we were thinking jumped timing chain. I test drove it and pulled it in the driveway. Shut it off, checked stuff over and fired it up to move it and it started then.

We've checked that it's at TDC so many times now with different people I can't even remember. The last time we even pulled the cap and wires then put it back on making sure the firing order was right and the rotor was pointing at the wire going to the number 1 cylinder.

Not sure what to check now.
 
well, you need to stop throwing guess's out and start with some basic diagnostics... first of all would be a compression, or better yet, a leakdown test....

you need to know if the cylinders are within range to run reasonable... when you've got all kinds of backfiring going on out both ends, you need to verify the valves are working properly and the cylinders are runnable...

no point in having a properly installed dizzy, or tight timing chain if you've got f*cked up valves... once the cylinders health is known, you can move on to the next step..

in the meantime, you'll just be guessing and throwing parts at it...
 
ryoken said:
well, you need to stop throwing guess's out and start with some basic diagnostics... first of all would be a compression, or better yet, a leakdown test....

you need to know if the cylinders are within range to run reasonable... when you've got all kinds of backfiring going on out both ends, you need to verify the valves are working properly and the cylinders are runnable...

no point in having a properly installed dizzy, or tight timing chain if you've got f*cked up valves... once the cylinders health is known, you can move on to the next step..

in the meantime, you'll just be guessing and throwing parts at it...
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Dude it's all an educated guess and I figure my time is free and it wasn't going to fix itself so I tore into it to see if I could see something that was obviously messed up.
I'll see what I can do about a compression or leak-down test.
 
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