K10: Built HP60/241-205 Doubler/tons of tube

[ryoken]

I didn't mean to sound d*cky, just trying to not see you waste your time... you can do those tests with the motor as is... pretty sure places do rentals on that stuff.. leakdown testers can be had pretty cheap actually, about $50, and i know you have air..

 

[Avery4jc]

I didn't mean to sound d*cky, just trying to not see you waste your time... you can do those tests with the motor as is... pretty sure places do rentals on that stuff.. leakdown testers can be had pretty cheap actually, about $50, and i know you have air..

Oh I know, I was just saying sometimes a guy reaches his point of what he knows and after that it's either ask for help, start tearing stuff apart or pay a shop (who will do the same thing you're doing ) so I decided to just dive into it and see if I could find something.

I'll go ahead and replace the timing chain and gears, put a new water pump on and get it all put back together then move on with more testing since there's no need to leave it all open like this.

 

[Chevy305]

Replace the chain, make sure your mechanical advance is working and see where it gets you.
But definately still do the compression and leak down test to really know what the engine is doing.

EDIT:
Just found an email from Summit, they have the harmonic balancer puller/installer, compression tester, and leak down tester on sale!

http://www.summitracing.com/search/...ler-Installer-Sets/?autoview=SKU&mbid=1208158

http://www.summitracing.com/search/...e/Equus-Compression-Tester-Kits/?autoview=SKU

http://www.summitracing.com/search/...ongacre-Engine-Leakdown-Testers/?autoview=SKU

 

[80' 427]

Sorry I miss read your post thinking you said it did jump a tooth. Time for compression and leak down check. I would start with compression since it will catch the big stuff. Pull the valve covers and look for broken springs also. Remember there are 2 ways to think about it. You can think you are at the end of you knowledge or that you are learning. What is the worst thing that will happen? It won't run right? You are there now.

 

[Avery4jc]

Just ordered a new water pump, timing chain set, compression tester, crank seal and gaskets. I'll get it all put back together, pull the valve covers and start doing some compression testing to see if I find something that yells out to dig deeper.

 

[ryoken]

cylinders need to be within 10% of each other... usually problem cylinders are pretty evident..

 

[Avery4jc]

cylinders need to be within 10% of each other... usually problem cylinders are pretty evident..

Ok, so what would a stock small block run pressure wise when it's new? I understand the concept here is to see if any particular cylinders are lower than others but just for laughs to see how worn out this thing is...

 

[ryoken]

eh, you could see anything from 120's to 150's... it all depends on the mill... once you start seeing numbers around 100, 110, that's pretty tired...

pull all plugs... open throttle... remote start switch makes it stupid easy...

 

[Avery4jc]

eh, you could see anything from 120's to 150's... it all depends on the mill... once you start seeing numbers around 100, 110, that's pretty tired...

pull all plugs... open throttle... remote start switch makes it stupid easy...

Glad you mentioned that I wouldn't have thought to do that. In case everyone can't tell by now I've wrenched on every single little bit of this truck, built all kinds of things but I've yet to actually touch the engine internally and I've owned this thing since before I could drive so I'm on a learning curve with all this stuff.
So all the plugs need to be out and just hold the throttle open, disconnect the power to the distributor and crank it over a little to get an accurate reading? What about fuel? Just disconnect it at the carb?

 

[dhcomp]

Never done it on a carb'd rig, but i wouldnt' worry about fuel. May run a bit rich when started again.

As for "crank it a little", you'll want to crank it for a good 3-5 seconds, or until the gauge stops going up. As least past a compression stroke or 2 at the cylinder.

Pretty easy, although may be tougher with those headers.

 

[80' 427]

Glad you mentioned that I wouldn't have thought to do that. In case everyone can't tell by now I've wrenched on every single little bit of this truck, built all kinds of things but I've yet to actually touch the engine internally and I've owned this thing since before I could drive so I'm on a learning curve with all this stuff.
So all the plugs need to be out and just hold the throttle open, disconnect the power to the distributor and crank it over a little to get an accurate reading? What about fuel? Just disconnect it at the carb?

Pull the dist wire, vise grip the throttle wide open and pull all the plugs. It won't run rich at next start any full you pull in will be blown out the plugs. Look for even rather than a number. Yes 100-110 is low but the 366s in a grain truck only have about that new (no compression or cam). Not to hard, you can do it if I can.

 

[Avery4jc]

I got some stuff cleaned up and painted waiting for parts to come in. They should be here tomorrow but I'm busy tomorrow night so it'll have to wait until Friday after work to get started on stuff.
I pulled the cam gear off and it has quite a few cracks in it. I'm still surprised the outside of these are plastic.



That's the old seal in the cover, figured someone would call me on painting the lip of the seal.

Cracks...

I'm taking the radiator with me to work tomorrow since there's a radiator shop down the street. I'll let them boil it and pressure test it before I drop it in. I'm going to get everything put back together over the weekend with the new water pump, timing set and radiator along with a mechanical fan.

I need to fix the power wire running to my starter since it can be run from behind the headers now instead of around the front like it's setup from the factory. Also I need to replace a header gasket since I blew it out when we were testing stuff at Pismo.
Lastly I need to run some new trans cooler lines before I can fire this thing up....

Like usual one thing leads to another.

 

[82355]

What timing set did you go with?

Martin

 

[80' 427]

I like to wire a ford start solenoid to the starter and have all the wires up high and only one power wire that goes to the starter only when starting. Those stock silent timing chain gears are known to crack and fall apart. I am actually suprised it hasn't.

 

[dhcomp]

I like to wire a ford start solenoid to the starter and have all the wires up high and only one power wire that goes to the starter only when starting.

I forgot about this. I've had my friend do this on his last 2 project trucks, and it freaking rocks. And not only does it get the starter wiring off the starter, and kill the wires to it when not in use.....it gets your main dash/int power feed off of the bottom of the starter.

Do it!

 

[andyblack]

The Ford solenoid could be the way to go. On my Ford truck, it's mounted up high on the firewall. It went out one time, and it's real easy to take off the rubber boots and short it with a screwdriver to get the starter motor to turn over. I've never thought of putting one on another brand before though. Good call.

 

[Deuling]

I put a mopar fuel filter on my rig and everybody gives me crap. Here your all talkin ford parts... Fock you guys!

 

[80' 427]

Ford starter solenoids are the only way to fly. Works awesome on the camaro and gives me a place for the timing light to power since the battery is in the trunk.

 

[andyblack]

I put a mopar fuel filter on my rig and everybody gives me crap. Here your all talkin ford parts... Fock you guys!

Avery already has a Ford front axle. What does it matter about the starter solenoid? It's not like he's installing a 302 or anything.

 

[Deuling]

Im just screwin around. The 4 solenoids are pretty bitchin. And so quick and easy and not next to the hot exhaust.