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K10: Built HP60/241-205 Doubler/tons of tube

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well, yeah, it does, cuz the starter amp draw goes up when the voltage is down... it's not as much as if say, everything was running thru the solenoid, but the number still increases, on something that already has a pretty large variable to it, what the starter draws, which was my original point.... just throwing some POS low amp "ford" solenoid at a high comp motor isn't the same as a spin with your finger tired 305... all ya gotta do is look to dizzles to understand the need for varying capacities in solenoids.. heck, I've seen Detroits pulling 6, 700 amps thru a slave...
 
ryoken said:
well, yeah, it does, cuz the starter amp draw goes up when the voltage is down... it's not as much as if say, everything was running thru the solenoid, but the number still increases, on something that already has a pretty large variable to it, what the starter draws, which was my original point.... just throwing some POS low amp "ford" solenoid at a high comp motor isn't the same as a spin with your finger tired 305... all ya gotta do is look to dizzles to understand the need for varying capacities in solenoids.. heck, I've seen Detroits pulling 6, 700 amps thru a slave...
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I think we are trying to make two different points :doah:

I totally agree with you that a generic parts store "ford" solenoid probably won't cut the mustard. Do we even know what one is rated for?

My point was that the slave solenoid ONLY powers the starter so any remaining power draws on the battery will only adversely affect cranking speed.
 
Chevy305 said:
Do we even know what one is rated for?

My point was that the slave solenoid ONLY powers the starter so any remaining power draws on the battery will only adversely affect cranking speed.
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they are usually 80 amp with an inrush of 150... at least a mild upgrade is usually a good idea.. not only for spec reasons, but quality just gets inherently better with a beefier switch..

and correct, everything else is on the feed post or earlier.. this should have been in that other thread...

back to Avery lighting her off again..
 
If nobody objects to some k10 talk I've been making progress. :whistle:


Put everything back together and cleaned up a bit as I went. Put in a new water pump while I was at it.

IMAG0971.jpg


My neighbor came over and hooked me up with some cool fabricated valve covers tonight. Figure if I'm pulling the valve covers to check valves I might as well put some bling back on. :D
I'm thinking some polish and a little elbow grease and they'll be good to go.
I need to figure out a breather and an oil fill setup for them too.

IMAG0972.jpg


Also a friend of mine owns a small smog/oil change and light repair shop here in town and my dad was over there the other day getting the oil changed in my sister's truck and got to chatting about what we've been working on with the k10. He said he's seen these exact symptoms numerous times throughout the years and he put his money on the distributor, specifically the pickup. I got to thinking and this was originally a computer controlled carb and there's also some wires going to the distributor since it's an HEI setup but no vacuum advance, it's somehow computer advanced. Well if that computer is even still under the dash I guarantee you it isn't hooked up anymore so I guess I haven't had any advance the past couple years either. :dunno:

Anyways long story short he keeps a known good HEI distributor at the shop for test purposes and he gave it to me since I gave him some headers a while back. He said he'll just buy a new test distributor next time he runs across a job that needs it. The good thing is it's vacuum advance so I can drop it in and plum up a working advance system. Maybe it'll solve the issue at hand (better, it's the last thing I can think of) but even if it doesn't it should run a heck of a lot better once we figure it out.

So next on the list is to pull the distributor, plugs, wires, valve covers and do a compression check and check to make sure nothing is obviously wrong with the valvetrain then stab the new distributor and hopefully we'll be in business.
 
If it doesn't have vacuum advance, it probably doesn't have mechanical advance either. Take a picture of the distributor with the cap and rotor removed.

Martin
 
I bet it does have vacuum advance. My '85 305 has vacuum advance and a really primitve computer thing that supposedly controlled the carb at one time, but I don't know if it ever had anything to do with the vacuum advance. I'm sure it doesn't work anymore. I think it's behind the glove box. :dunno: Mine's not a CA model though so it's probably totally different.

If the dizzy has a vacuum hose going to it, then it's got vacuum advance. Mine's on the passenger's side, kind of angled out away from the cap. It's brass bell looking thing. Seems like I replaced that whole assembly a while back when I was having similar problems.
 
My 81 camaro was CCC (computer controlled carb) and the dist was junk without the correct carb. It didn't advance and when I put in a older style HEI it felt like it picked up 20hp or better. I would of course curve it but living in the place you do I would be care with the Smog Nazis.
 
OH no the carb was junk too. That is why I removed it. I am not talking about ESC, this is only CCC like Avery most likely have living over there in California.
 
Went to drop the new radiator in and realized it's a wee bit shorter than the old one. After some research it appears some of these big radiators were shorter and used the mounting holes on the face of the core support instead of the top.
So I thought about making some mounts but figured my time could be better spent since LMC sells the correct mounts for $10 a piece. So those will be here this week and I can mount it the right way.

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I have a leaky tire on the rear that I've been putting some air in about once a week. I got up this morning and was heading out and noticed the truck looked funny so I walked over and apparently I wasn't keeping a close enough eye on it. :)
Lost the inner and outer bead. I was able to re-seat it with a big ratchet strap and a good burst of air...

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This afternoon I pulled the distributor and it's one of the funny computer controlled ones that is supposed to work with the computer controlled carb that I no longer run. Thinking I'm going to be a happy camper with all this stuff out of here and conventional parts in place.

IMAG0982.jpg


Pulled the valve covers and it looks like everything is happy, nothing loose or rattling around with a simple visual inspection. I finished polishing up one of the new valve covers and test fit it. I need to pick up some new gaskets before I put it on permanently.
Can't really tell but I put new collector gaskets on since I blew out the ones that had about 15 minutes of run time on them. I put lock washers on to keep them tight this time.

IMAG0983.jpg


So this week the radiator can go in, the new distributor can be dropped in with new wires and the boot protectors and I'll get the transmission cooler lines made up.
 
Wow, I can't imagine it ran real well with that distributor. How long has it been since you had the computer and correct carburetor? Is this no longer plated?

Martin
 
It's been a season or two since the carb was pulled. I don't know what it was doing but it ran well enough for what I do. This truck doesn't see very many miles these days.
I'm hoping this will perk up this old small block.
 
So the distributor had no provision for vacuum advance at all? Only that plug coming out of it? That's weird. Man I bet that truck felt like a dog. Once you get the correct piece, I'm sure it won't be bogging down when you hit the gas and running rough anymore. I bet it will feel like a whole new engine. It always amazes me how much the ignition affects the way the engine runs.

What kind of collector gaskets are you running? The last time I blew mine out, I went to Autozone and got a pair of those think aluminum ones. I think they'll last a lot longer. They're like twice as thick as the sorry ones they give you when you buy new headers.
 
That dist auto advances like 10 degs at 3500 or something. Basically junk. Like I said consider a curve kit.
 
andyblack said:
So the distributor had no provision for vacuum advance at all? Only that plug coming out of it? That's weird. Man I bet that truck felt like a dog. Once you get the correct piece, I'm sure it won't be bogging down when you hit the gas and running rough anymore. I bet it will feel like a whole new engine. It always amazes me how much the ignition affects the way the engine runs.

What kind of collector gaskets are you running? The last time I blew mine out, I went to Autozone and got a pair of those think aluminum ones. I think they'll last a lot longer. They're like twice as thick as the sorry ones they give you when you buy new headers.
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Nope no vacuum advance. I ordered some .125" thick gaskets from summit. The old ones were fine but the bolts loosened off and it blew them out.
 
John, I believe if you read closer, he got a traditional HEI that he is replacing that CCC unit with.

Martin
 
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