Whiteknight73
Registered Member
Sounds like a pretty good next step in the project! Do you think the tube front might include some links and coilovers?
CK5
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K10: Built HP60/241-205 Doubler/tons of tube
- Thread starter Avery4jc
- Start date
Nah, not for this truck. It's a crawler and nothing more. I went through phases of wanting it to do both but I've decided it's best to keep this the wheeler/trail truck on leaves and eventually buy/build a sand toy for Pismo.
The way I look at it is a $8-$10k RZR will run 45-50 mph through about whatever you point it at, sips fuel and when parts break they're off the shelf cheap stuff. I could put another $8k into this and it wouldn't perform the same and sure wouldn't sip the fuel at those speeds.
So that's my big picture plan, when it'll happen I don't know but sooner than later.
Whiteknight73
Registered Member
Well that makes sence then. Keepin it simple yet effective. A good crawler usually doesn't make to good of a prerunner. Yet those KOH tube buggies sure do a good job of doing both. Speaking of leafs, how do you like the front ez-rides? I want to go that way instead of the 52s as well, atleast for now.
chevysmithz71
1/2 ton status
If your doing a full on build for crawling go with the 52's. Im sure Avery likes his ez's over the superlifts he had for a while but if you want flex for crawling go 52or56's. Just my .02
I like mine, they flex really well and more importantly hold the axle where it needs to be. 52's and 56's up front are cool but guys have lots of little issues associated with them. Killing springs prematurely, sway control while on the road and front axle wrap (twisting) to name a few.
Whiteknight73
Registered Member
Thanks for the help guys. Yeah I've done a lot of reading on the 52s and my original plan was to run some b-52s from Kert at diy4x and 52s but I figured since this truck will still get drivin on the street because I don't have a trailer yet, the ez-rides would be a better idea for now. I don't want to hijack the thread but thanks for the info!
The only way I've successfully "finished" a build is too sell it....
andyblack
Registered Loser
Be sure and take lotsa pictures then.
Back on the k10 after a looooong time. The truck really hasn't needed anything in over a year. Just been wheeling it hard and putting it away, tightening everything up before the next trip and rolling.
Decided to torch off all of the old shock mount stuff up front. It was a mess and took two evenings to cut off and get cleaned up. Making some off the shelf Trail Gear shock hoops work since after some preliminary measuring I can make them work and set my shocks where I need them in their stroke.
You can't see in the pics because it got dark and I didn't take any more but I notched and plated the back of the rear down tube on the driver's side and it clears my steering shaft. Going to bend up a baby engine cage tomorrow night and call it good.
Decided to torch off all of the old shock mount stuff up front. It was a mess and took two evenings to cut off and get cleaned up. Making some off the shelf Trail Gear shock hoops work since after some preliminary measuring I can make them work and set my shocks where I need them in their stroke.
You can't see in the pics because it got dark and I didn't take any more but I notched and plated the back of the rear down tube on the driver's side and it clears my steering shaft. Going to bend up a baby engine cage tomorrow night and call it good.
Whiteknight73
Registered Member
How tall are the hoops that you got?
Whiteknight73
Registered Member
Looks pretty good btw!
Also not sure if I missed it, but how long are the shocks front and back? 14 inch travel? Thanks
Also not sure if I missed it, but how long are the shocks front and back? 14 inch travel? Thanks
They're the only ones Trail Gear sells I believe. They're 16" overall but 13" from the center of the mounting feet to the bolt holes in the shock tabs.
Burned everything in tonight. Added a tube for the engine cage and two little tubes off the front down tubes on the hoops to the top of the frame. I'm busy with school the next two nights but this weekend I'm going to add a piece of tube from the rear down tubes on the hoops back to where my interior cage passes through the floor and ties to the frame.
That should be sufficient for now.
If/when I need to get the engine cage out I'll just cut it then and weld in some of those tube clamps.
That should be sufficient for now.
If/when I need to get the engine cage out I'll just cut it then and weld in some of those tube clamps.
hey Avery how are your front bump stops mounted?
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Good job man! You have really turned this into a solid truck.
The backing plate they are molded to is welded to the spring plate.
chevysmithz71
1/2 ton status
I'm diggin the tube work
Yeah, it was a long time ago but I remember going slow and cooling them off while I worked. Far from ideal when it comes to the weld itself but they're just bump stops and have held on for a while now.
Finished the engine cage/shock hoops this morning. I added tube from the rear legs of the hoops back to the frame. I'm pretty happy with how it all came out. Good start to caging the front of the truck.
I also moved the PSC reservoir onto the new tube. It's closer and doesn't vibrate around now. I snagged a 45* swivel JIC fitting and put it on the pump so the path of the hose is as smooth as can be.
I need to go through and do my regular pre-trip check of drivetrain bolts/nuts and throw the tires back on but I'd say it's ready to hit the dunes. Heading out Thursday morning.
I also moved the PSC reservoir onto the new tube. It's closer and doesn't vibrate around now. I snagged a 45* swivel JIC fitting and put it on the pump so the path of the hose is as smooth as can be.
I need to go through and do my regular pre-trip check of drivetrain bolts/nuts and throw the tires back on but I'd say it's ready to hit the dunes. Heading out Thursday morning.
