Linked 74 K5. Rental house driveway build.

[clstolten]

Awesome build !!!!!
I have really been hoping to see someone do a write up on the ORD kit, and even better it's on a full vert

What's up with 68 Camaro I see

The Camaro is my next project. Nothing special about the car. Had a 327 and saginaw 4 speed originally, but the 327 is long gone. Plan is to go the pro touring route. Mini tub linked rear end, 6.2L, and maybe a t56. It looks a little rough, but it is pretty much untouched, and has a solid floor, trunk, and rocker panels.

 

[tyler__820]

DAMN that front axle looks good with the brackets on there.

 

[clstolten]

Np205

The 205 I am using was a 10 spline male input figure eight pattern, originally behind an sm465. It needs to mount behind the 4l85, and it needs the electronic pulse signal for the trans to operate correctly.

Here is what I started with

Removed all the guts and cleaned it up with some warm water, and dawn soap.

Painted the case

Input had to be swaped to a 32 spline female to work with the 4l85. ORD sold me a used long input 32 spline input and a new input bearing. The new bearing is much bigger in diameter than the old, so the case has to be bored out. Picked up a used criterion boring head that came with a few bars on ebay for dirt cheap. Things are 400 plus new and I paid about 150. I hardly get lucky with ebay anymore, but the dude had a crapy title for his auction, so nobody saw it. With a boring bar you can really only take about 20 thousands off the radius with each pass(my experience here with my equipemtn. I am not a machinist), and I think I had to remove about .5" from the diameter. A machinist friend recommended a hole saw to get it close, and then finish with the boring bar. I just made a ton of passes with the boring bar. Took forever. Here it is on the mill.

Here is a video of one of the final passes with the boring bar. Kinda boring.

[YOUTUBE]<iframe width="560" height="345" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/XTZifO0--0g" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>[/YOUTUBE]

 

[clstolten]

dang, I guess I dont know how to put the video in the post. Here is a link

http://youtu.be/XTZifO0--0g

 

[clstolten]

Input installed along with the rest of the gears and bearings. I re-used every other bearing because they looked good. Time will tell how that works out for me. ORD twin stick rails installed also.

ORD twin stick linkage installed

 

[clstolten]

DAMN that front axle looks good with the brackets on there.

Thanks. Yeah, at that point I downed about a six pack and just stared at it.

 

[tyler__820]

Thanks. Yeah, at that point I downed about a six pack and just stared at it.

Nice. Funny story about beer and trucks.... I was working graveyard a few years back and me and the buddies were planning on wheeling the next morn but my truck just S*#$ a throw out bearing so i was SOL. Iget a phone call about 2 a.m. from my 2 buddies who sounded 3 sheets to the wind, they were nice enough to inform me that they had just finished putting a new bearing in and got everything all buttoned up. i was like uhhhh thanks

 

[Avery4jc]

Awesome work man. You should have no problems taking .050 to .060" with that indexing head, especially with cast iron. What were your feeds and speeds?

 

[clstolten]

Nice. Funny story about beer and trucks.... I was working graveyard a few years back and me and the buddies were planning on wheeling the next morn but my truck just S*#$ a throw out bearing so i was SOL. Iget a phone call about 2 a.m. from my 2 buddies who sounded 3 sheets to the wind, they were nice enough to inform me that they had just finished putting a new bearing in and got everything all buttoned up. i was like uhhhh thanks

Nice! Its one of those things that when your lit up a bit, you think you can fix anything, then you wake up the next morning and worry about whether or not you should tear it all back apart and make sure it was done right.

 

[clstolten]

Awesome work man. You should have no problems taking .050 to .060" with that indexing head, especially with cast iron. What were your feeds and speeds?

Avery, it has been a while since I did this work. I know the gearbox was in low, and I think the pulley was set for 210 rpm, but I have a variable frequency drive on the phase converter for the motor. It was probably set to around 40 HZ or something close, so who knows what that does to the spindle rpm, besides slow it down. I just messed around until I got the best finish on the cut. I used the J head power feed, but dont remember how it was set. I believe you on the 50 thou. I think maybe I had the cutter at the wrong angle or something. Do you have any suggestions on setting the angle of the cutter? I know you have to have chip relief on the back side of it. Thanks.

 

[Avery4jc]

I just watched the movie and I think you're onto something with your phase converter screwing stuff up, that didn't look like 200rpm, maybe closer to 50-75.
I do conventional machine work so take this with a grain of salt as CNC guys are ALL about the numbers but what I'd do in a situation like that where you had to hog out a lot of material is indicate the bore then set your indexing head for about .080" and set the feed rate as slow as it'll go then turn it on and speed it up as you're cutting. If you get to 350rpm or so and it's still making a solid cut then on the next cut step your feed rate up to the next spot and slow the spindle speed back down...
You can do that until you find the sweet spot on your machine. Then obviously slow everything down when you're taking a small finish cut.

Again, that's not what they'll teach you in school but that's how you can do it at home to get the job done quickly and efficiently.

Oh, as far as your concerns with the chip I wouldn't be with cast iron. It's about as forgiving as anything you can cut and will chip (almost) no matter what.

 

[supersize75k5]

Back from Crane after being re-welded

Holy crap I need you on my team lol, looks BEEFY

 

[5280k5]

Sounds good. Is your K5 still in one piece?

For the most part. Spent the last two days up at the shop replacing a clutch and putting in gears(Finally!) and a front locker. Trying to get it thrown together for a company wheeling trip here in a couple weeks.

Of course this is just the basics to get it moving again and not really where I'd like it to be as a whole. You definitely jumped in with both feet but it will be sweet when you're done.

 

[clstolten]

I just watched the movie and I think you're onto something with your phase converter screwing stuff up, that didn't look like 200rpm, maybe closer to 50-75.
I do conventional machine work so take this with a grain of salt as CNC guys are ALL about the numbers but what I'd do in a situation like that where you had to hog out a lot of material is indicate the bore then set your indexing head for about .080" and set the feed rate as slow as it'll go then turn it on and speed it up as you're cutting. If you get to 350rpm or so and it's still making a solid cut then on the next cut step your feed rate up to the next spot and slow the spindle speed back down...
You can do that until you find the sweet spot on your machine. Then obviously slow everything down when you're taking a small finish cut.

Again, that's not what they'll teach you in school but that's how you can do it at home to get the job done quickly and efficiently.

Oh, as far as your concerns with the chip I wouldn't be with cast iron. It's about as forgiving as anything you can cut and will chip (almost) no matter what.

Avery, thanks for the tips. I will keep them in mind the next time I use the boring head.

 

[clstolten]

For the most part. Spent the last two days up at the shop replacing a clutch and putting in gears(Finally!) and a front locker. Trying to get it thrown together for a company wheeling trip here in a couple weeks.

Of course this is just the basics to get it moving again and not really where I'd like it to be as a whole. You definitely jumped in with both feet but it will be sweet when you're done.

Sweet! the 4.10 gears you had with those tires must have been terrible. I heard you went with 5.13 as well. Let me know what you think of that combo.

 

[clstolten]

Transfer case adapter

Picked up the adapter from ORD. It is an advanced adapter that they modify. I think the only modification is to the outside diameter of the pilot on the transmission side. The adapter was intended for a th400 I think. Here are some pics. I did have to remove some material from one of the mounting ears for the transmission to clear the twin stick linkage. Also removed some material to clear the transmission at the pan area.

ORD mod to pilot seen here

Mod by me to clear linkage seen here. You can also see where I removed material to clear the trans pan

More pictures

 

[clstolten]

transfer case speed sensor

Electronic speed sensor is needed for the trans to work. This has been shown before on this board. Used a 241 tone ring that I cut down, and machined the tailhousing for the 241 speed sensor.

Here you can see the plastic gear next to a cut and un-cut 241 tone ring

Drilled and taped for the sensor

I faced the area that the sensor seated to with an .75" endmill. I wished I would have had something bigger to spot face that area with, but it worked. Just made multiple passes. I would have needed something that was about 1.25". Also had to set the sensor to ring gap. I think it was something like .018", but dont quote me on that. I would have to look that up. Drilled and tapped for a vent line fitting while I was at it.

 

[TheBeast_88K5]

I'm so jealous.... Nice build!

 

[clstolten]

Front four link frame brackets

These are part of the ORD kit. You knock the rivets that hold the front body mounts off and then bolt this with the body mount to the frame. Thats what they intended. Also bolts to the bottom of the frame. Here is what I did. Knocked out rivets and held bracket up to frame. Holes in link bracket line up but the horizontal surface of the bracket that interfaces with the bottom of the frame is about 3/16" away from the frame. Maybe this is to account for the factory trans crossmember possibly being sandwiched in between the frame and bracket in some cases? Not sure. I was going to weld mine anyways because my frame is boxed, and I would have had to add sleeves to keep from pinching the frame sides together. I pushed them up against the side and bottom of the frame and tried to line them up with what I could see of the holes and then burned them on. Then I welded to the body mounts to the link brackets lining them up with what I could see of the frame holes. Notice that they do hang down from the frame by what looks like a lot. ORD does have a low clearance bracket available now, and they have pictures up on there web page. I chose to not use the low clearance brackets because they did not have them available when I got the kit, and also these brackets will keep the links more horizontal and could provide better road manners.

Pictures

In this picture you can see that I used a hole saw and then welded around the inside of the hole as well. These would suck to have to remove now.

 

[y5mgisi]

Damn! Subscribed! THat should be a downright fun truck when your done!