CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

linked one ton escalade (coming back soon)

Cage idea, for the main hoop behind the driver seats I’m planning to run tubing on each side straight up and through the roof (in red) to the exocage around the top. I’ll also run a bar across the top obviously and one right behind the seat (also in red).

I’ll run a normal hoop behind the second row and just tubing between the hoop and top cage.

The idea is to have an exocage around the top and down the front of the windshield like this suburban.


Now tell me why this won’t work.

19472675-57B3-4A8D-A4DC-82CB1FBB8DA6.jpeg

647C9934-0AC9-4909-A427-3863C428684D.jpeg
 
Since I am not an expert at all, my first question is, do you need to decide how good of a cage you need? I say this because I am thinking that the first problem to be pointed out is the lack of diagonal bars. I like the idea, however, even if it isn't appropriate for a severe impact.
I know that there are several guys on here who know how to build a sturdy cage, I have seen proof. But I believe that each person has to decide how much safety they want.
I know that I an not adding or helping here, but I am curious to see your end result.
 
I would build the standard internal cage B pillar, C pillar, A pillar and just do some small uprights to the exo through the roof.

Untitled.png
 
Yeah I should’ve added I’ll add diagonal bars or an X, just mostly wondering about the side bar going from the floor through the roof and not being 1 hoop. But shouldn’t really matter if I tie them together at the top and X it or something.
 
First 2 pictures: that piece that sticks out of the hydroboost is leaking, I have several other hydroboost units but that piece is shorter(in gold) will that matter? Can I just swap that on and be good, it would clear better if it was shorter anyway.

3rd picture. My dad ordered a rock krawler long arm kit for the wrecked 2015 hard rock. The lower links are 2” solid steel! Stock Jeep arm is 5lbs. Rock crawler link is 29lbs, Escalade link is 38lbs.

Then I got bored and took the trans and transfercase out, going to mock up the 4l80 and doubler tomorrow then pull it back out and tear the 4l80 apart to add a second speed sensor like a 2wd, unfortunately the part won’t be here for a couple days.

58B27A0B-212D-47FD-89CE-788684C6D98D.jpeg

001A6C72-F01D-480D-A42F-5A6EC6136BB6.jpeg

3199DBE9-CF75-4FB0-A0DE-636051E06C36.jpeg

7642EC95-8BAE-4CDB-8C50-513D39E4D7B6.jpeg
 
As far as I know, the can that you are referring to on the hydro boost is the pressure accumulator. I don't know what the down side to a smaller one would be. And trying it would be a pain if it didn't work out. But trying to find the answer for sure, without trying it, may be a pain.
 
Got the grey plug for the trans rewired for the 4l80, just need to find a plug for the second speed sensor.
 
Got the rear of the top exocage bent, was going to use this piece for the front, but going to do the front a little different. Also need to trim the end cap for the stock roof rack back about 2 inches so it fits behind the cage like it is in the second picture.

1F348D9B-18B8-47FE-A01B-D8A5542206E9.jpeg

EB9599C8-9B87-4737-A3F6-7E6AFA92F22E.jpeg

951BE0E8-C3F1-40AF-A778-6E195C6F2001.jpeg
 
It’s just sitting there in the picture, it will not be touching the roof when done, and the rear hatch will open completely, that’s why I’m shortening the roof rack cap, so it is still there and the hatch opens
 
I bent the front piece up to a point like the rear and it looks much better. If there wasn’t so much junk in the shop I could get better pictures...
 
Crappy pictures but got the front 2 bars done and decided to do the bars behind the rear seat the same way. All 4 bars are bent and notched and the holes are cut. Front plates are welded to the floor and need to make the rears. Then on to the bars in front of the windshield, found a way to tuck them behind the fender and still make the fender removable with force.

Would’ve got farther but I didn’t have tubing to sleeve the top exocage, need to get it square and in place first.

E649B13F-8CBF-4944-92DA-96DF52F4DCF1.jpeg

4D52C1DD-0EE6-4270-A19E-30A0DBE583DF.jpeg

55332843-9540-493C-A026-75349747249E.jpeg

E57B4B34-918D-405E-95FF-591511517F9C.jpeg
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom