CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

linked one ton escalade (coming back soon)

That I don’t know, I’m guessing the insurance company. It’s up $3350, i wonder if it’ll go for less than 15k
 
It got removed from copart. Dammit. Hopefully it comes back. At least now I have time to sell the LJ, which I haven’t driven in months.
 
I’ll have to go find another 241 to take apart, no idea where the last 2 I boxed up went.
 
New
0 progress on the Escalade, other than I got free king bump stops for the front from work. it’s at a friends at storage again. Me and my buddy that I work for are in the process of moving to a bigger shop, the amount of stuff I’ve learned in the last couple months makes me want to not even work on the Escalade and completely restart to make it nicer.
Here’s a couple things in the shop right now, a Cherokee that’s 4 linked rear, I built the 3 link front, ORIs, 1 tons, blah blah blah.

the cool one is the m715. Crate LS3, 4l80, 5.0 atlas, 1 tons, 42” treps, remote resi 16” ORIs, I’m currently building the front 4 link, will be full hydro, and is getting a custom 65 gallon tank because he wants to be able to drive it anywhere, apparently on one tank of fuel. Its going to get custom armor and cage and a trailer that matches the box, will be set up to haul snowmobiles, I want to build a fuel station (for the snowmobiles) in the truck and also onboard air with tank and hose real to run tools

And my tow rig situation. A couple days ago I bought this 2011 dodge 4wd 5500 (the front axle is huge! Bigger than a 14 bolt) for a very very good price. I was going to pull the box off and sell it to pay for the pickup and a 24’ camper, then put that camper on my 48’ trailer then the Escalade behind it. But... the truck complete and fixed is probably worth about 25-30k more than I paid for it... so I might have to sell it and keep the duramax for now.

6EC0CDFA-DCEC-4A52-A6C8-C1F6DD3D1821.jpeg

EB17477F-0846-440E-8432-A973C2773755.jpeg

B2D8725B-0C32-4E0B-93CD-4D4BCE1A9043.jpeg

3812CCD4-69EF-419B-86CA-6DABB4252709.jpeg

DB7FA3B1-E61D-4BD5-8B26-3D3AD23D8610.jpeg

CD87B9AF-65F4-4F5E-A9C7-573E82E5C745.jpeg

1792D8A3-BFC9-49B9-8B78-8A7B7603C95E.jpeg

AD0716AE-836C-44FA-8972-0C4FB59FD1CD.jpeg

67B84BBF-48F7-49AF-BA6F-3521B6089792.jpeg

4085F5C2-D588-4D3A-BEA1-767EF40B302F.jpeg
 
Fix the Dodge and dump it. If it's got 100k or close to it then it's gonna start having issues. All of the ATs that we have at work start having problems then. They are identical to that just a slightly smaller boom. None of the newer emission compliant diesels like being ran in PTO mode all the time like those little bucket trucks do.
 
Full hydro with a 65 gallon fuel tank and snowy road sounds tiring. If I were building that I would keep some ideas in mind for mounting a steering box. But the rest sounds fun!

if it was up to me it would be getting hydro assist. :dunno:
 
Some small updates on not the Escalade lol.

I built a front axle truss that I think turned out awesome and a crossmember for under the atlas that double as a skid plate mount/ribbing.

question on fuel system for the Escalade. I’m thinking about building a larger fuel cell, there’s room where I have mine to go up to about a 40 gallon tank, but I’ve been looking at these pump setups and they seem pretty reasonably priced. Twin 340s and the billet bulkhead, I was wondering if I could wire them each up separate on switches and some how have a mechanical valve inline so if one pump dies I could just flip the valve and turn the other pump on. Or is this too much and just wire them both up all the time?

64A4EFD3-6166-49A1-8B11-BD7F65BE61B7.jpeg

3D895C82-2466-41E7-9EB4-3D153E8A399E.jpeg

03E5AAFD-9D17-4E03-8A5D-5ADEDAE60045.jpeg

24278D96-9587-4E9B-9C87-9F3C28947EC1.jpeg

14F1DEA9-0275-4B7B-BE4F-407B6B182AE1.jpeg

F5EE7F06-817E-4E4E-BD9D-FE34FB9D2AA8.jpeg

794211AB-B6EB-430E-9996-4E34A5C2561F.jpeg

812B197F-A0C2-47E4-9C99-CFAB7E28AEAB.jpeg
 
If you had dual lines exiting the bulkhead I would think that it would be pretty simple to do what you described. Put a ball valve in both lines before the tee and wire accordingly.

Only thing that would be a question in my mind is why. If you need that much pump then both need to run anyway. And if you need that much pump then you need some serious lines as well. (More money)

Is it cost effective to have that setup versus a single and a spare?
 
If you had dual lines exiting the bulkhead I would think that it would be pretty simple to do what you described. Put a ball valve in both lines before the tee and wire accordingly.

Only thing that would be a question in my mind is why. If you need that much pump then both need to run anyway. And if you need that much pump then you need some serious lines as well. (More money)

Is it cost effective to have that setup versus a single and a spare?

i don’t need that much pump at all, one is plenty. I just want super redundant on everything when I’m done and for some reason the twin 340s is cheaper than the twin 255. They do both have their own separate exit on the bulkhead, then the vent, and return in the center.
Hopefully I’ll be adding coolers and filters and thermostats on trans, oil and steering too. I want it to be super reliable and over the top on everything eventually. There’s an event at the end of the year I’d like to do and finish... and it’s a lot of driving miles.

but a valve on each line before the T makes sense. Instead of like a diverter valve, if that’s a thing.
 
Top Bottom