I've read that in Derek's thread, too. I was planning on trying it on the next doubler I run, so I'll be waiting to see what you come up with.
CK5
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linked one ton escalade (coming back soon)
- Thread starter 85k5witha6.2
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Is that necessary or just something he did for peace of mind? Mine is coming out soon for an inspection so this might be something to consider.
In the instructions it says you can do it either way. For a crawler and trail rig it’s definitely not necessary, and for driving on the highway very long distances, probably still not necessary haha, but I already left the seal between the 2 out when I put it together so
Still not doin much at work so my boss and I rebuilt a Dana 20 transfercase for one of his jeeps and then we got bored so pulled the Escalade in.
The old setup on the rear driveshaft wasn’t working, the rubber mounted carrier bearing wouldn’t ever last long, so going to just solid mounted bearings and lengthening the front half to make the rear a little shorter and get it up out of the rocks more. So I added a different rear crossmember, I plan on moving the old carrier bearing mount crossmember to the center of the 2 skid plates and bolting the new rear skid I’m making to both crossmembers and frame rails. Luckily it looks like that crossmember I need to move was never fully welded in
I’ll go through and countersink all the skid plate bolts like I should’ve originally.
moving the crossmember also gives me a place to add the rear 205 support. I’ll need to make this crossmember bolt in instead of welded though so I can remove the tcase and trans when needed.
also asked him if he had a 1410 yoke for a 205, he opened one of his atlas drawers and had about half a dozen. Score.
The old setup on the rear driveshaft wasn’t working, the rubber mounted carrier bearing wouldn’t ever last long, so going to just solid mounted bearings and lengthening the front half to make the rear a little shorter and get it up out of the rocks more. So I added a different rear crossmember, I plan on moving the old carrier bearing mount crossmember to the center of the 2 skid plates and bolting the new rear skid I’m making to both crossmembers and frame rails. Luckily it looks like that crossmember I need to move was never fully welded in
I’ll go through and countersink all the skid plate bolts like I should’ve originally.moving the crossmember also gives me a place to add the rear 205 support. I’ll need to make this crossmember bolt in instead of welded though so I can remove the tcase and trans when needed.
also asked him if he had a 1410 yoke for a 205, he opened one of his atlas drawers and had about half a dozen. Score.
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And yes, it is still covered in Idaho mud from ITTC 2018. Still tastes the same.
In the instructions it says you can do it either way. For a crawler and trail rig it’s definitely not necessary, and for driving on the highway very long distances, probably still not necessary haha, but I already left the seal between the 2 out when I put it together so
Must have been added to the later instructions since it wasn’t wasn’t included in late 2016. Might be something I would also consider.
I actually don’t see it now in the instructions, but I think I bought this 2 or 3 years ago. Maybe I read it somewhere else, who knows lol
Well that was easy to remove.
I think I’m going to cap the end of the tube with a 2x4.5” piece of 1/4” and punch 2 wholes and then use these weld in threaded bungs. Ive got some stuff to cut out of 1/4 on the plasma table so I’ll just wait and cut the real plates on there tomorrow. Then I’ll sleeve the frame and runs bolts through the frame to this crossmember.
I think I’m going to cap the end of the tube with a 2x4.5” piece of 1/4” and punch 2 wholes and then use these weld in threaded bungs. Ive got some stuff to cut out of 1/4 on the plasma table so I’ll just wait and cut the real plates on there tomorrow. Then I’ll sleeve the frame and runs bolts through the frame to this crossmember.
Got the rear skid drilled and bolted on I need to add a 3/8 strip to fill the gap between it and the rear crossmember, and maybe add 1 rib in the middle. It looks nice with the tapered bolts flush mounted. Eventually I’ll do the front one that way.
So do I “boatside-ish” from the frame over to the slider? I’d do it out of something thinner and just make them easily replaceable.
You could kinda "boatside-ish" it if you want. I don't think it'll be necessary though. Oh, and you could think about drilling some larger holes with a hole-saw in those as well, just for drainage. I didn't do that very well on my crossmember on my K5 and it collects dirt/mud/rocks like crazy, and is kinda irritating to clean out. Making some larger holes in there really does help with that. Just something to think about, not a mandatory thing
By drill with a hole saw you mean set on plasma table and press go? 
But yes, I’ll probably add some cutouts near the rear of both skids, I did forget about that haha
But yes, I’ll probably add some cutouts near the rear of both skids, I did forget about that haha
I changed my mind on how I want to mount the center crossmember to make it easier. Just going to weld 2 tabs to the inside of the frame rail and a bolt through the crossmember, then I’ll add the 4 tabs on the crossmember for the skids to also bolt to.
Went and bought a few pieces to mock up and measure for driveshaft. Doing all 1410 joints, so the pillow block bearing thing I had was to small, but it turns out the big bearing in an ax15 transmission is the exact right size to slide on the mid shaft for the driveshaft with no machine work. So I’m having a piece of tube machine with 2 snap rings to hold The bearing and be bolted to the crossmember just like the one I have pictured that works with a smaller shaft.
and it looks like I can make the rear part of the rear driveshaft the exact same length and slip as the front axle driveshaft so I’ll be able to throw together a spare shaft that fits both front and rear which will be cool
and it looks like I can make the rear part of the rear driveshaft the exact same length and slip as the front axle driveshaft so I’ll be able to throw together a spare shaft that fits both front and rear which will be cool
I should probably weld some of this stuff in before I keep taking stuff off. Unbolting the lower arms and skid are tricky by myself. Lots of jack stands and jacks.
I really want to redo the trans mount crossmember now too.
Might as well right?
I really want to redo the trans mount crossmember now too.
Might as well right?
I wasn’t planning on adding any ribs to the rear skid, but it only took 45 minutes to cut out and weld on so might as well.
Fits good
I don't always wish I didn't have a cushy office job, but things like this really make me wish I worked in a fab shop.
Looks great!
thanks! I quit the fab shop about a year ago, I just hang Christmas lights for work, the plasma table and all the equipment are just for fun. My boss kind of bought the table as a sign on bonus for me and I’m paying part of it off. I have a great job now haha
ironically I’m in the building where the fab shop I worked for used to be. Just a lot nicer plasma table now
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So, it's win/win! Nice.
